Hi,

I have finally ordered myself a new car. its gonna be a 1996 993 C4S which I will drive in summertime (not on salted roads). Today I drive a 12 year old BMW 523i E39. I do all the maintenance on the BMW myself like brakes, radiator, suspension and air suspension, electroniccs etc (but I dont tinker to much inside the engine) I have had the car for four years now. It came at the same time as my ex-girlfriend, and I now feel its time to part ways with the car (since the ex is out).

I need a practical car for the winter. A car that can do some towing, but won`t necessarly be my DD. Therefore I have looked in to the 4.4 L322. 02-04 models with the BMW m62B44 engine. I donT like the TD6 version, and I`m not going to drive the car enough that I need the savings of the diesel anyways.

I am more concerned with maintenance. The 993 wil go to the shops, but the rangie i will fix myself. How much can you do on these cars in comparison to a BMW E34, E39 or E38 yourself? how is it with parts? Where can you order them, how are they in price, what kind of after market parts are there thats up for the task?

Last edited by MariusRR on 13th Jan 2014 2:53pm. Edited 1 time in total

Please share any experience you have with doing things yourselves on the L322! Deeply Appreciated!

In most cases, a cars a car when working on the mechanics. I've done bits on my cars from a fiat punto through to a Ferrari. When you get down to it, they all work much the same way, just don't be intimidated by their cost. The RR I have found is good as its big and bits are relatively easy to get to. Downside is the weight always feels a lot hanging over you when under it, but a 1 tonn or a 3 tonn car on your chest really makes little difference. Lots of specialist LR parts places out there, I've found parts to be not badly priced at all. Breaks and discs all around are not expensive and only take 1hr to fit (I'm not quick either). PLUS - there is a Lot of excellent knowledge on this forum and around the web for almost every part of the car (unlike trying to find how to extract a gearbox ecu from a W169 Merc....).

If you're doing DIY you really need a diagnostics tool which is one reason I've done very little myself. I should really get one.

I have changed the battery and the wheels.

Oh, and the sat nav and radio.

Hi Marius,
If you have already done the maintenance on your E39, the RR will be familiar terrain. About the only thing you will need to learn about is the EAS. Not difficult to sort at all, tho. Check the wiki for the RAVE download and have a look. Even the format of the manual should be familiar grounds (if you had BMW factory literature).

Ohh - and the RR is still much nicer to drive than a BMW. Even if many of the mechanicals are the same.

KurtVerbose wrote:

you really need a diagnostics tool. I should really get one.

Yes you should.




 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

993 C4S, now there's a CAR!!  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

All depends on the level of your DIY.

Oil and filter changes, brake pads service items etc are all straight forward.

Serious DIY, gearbox removal cylinder heads etc, you'll need a lot of room and some heavy equipment.

I've had mine for 9 months and it is a 2003 4.4 V8 with 147k on the clock, its just great and I cant imagine ever being without a FFRR. So far anything that has gone wrong I have been able to fix (this forum is so useful for help and advice), most things have been fairly minor and it sailed through its last MOT. I took the advice from here and bought one that appeared to have been well maintained and mileage was secondary. Parts are very easy to get and seem to be reasonable. I'd go for it - just take your time and find a good one and have a good root about on here for advice on what to look for when buying - loads of really helpful stuff.

Hi again,

What I have changed on my E39 in the three years I have owned it: Brakes all around, air-bags for the rear suspension, Power Window-mechanisms in back doors, headlining, front suspension (bushings, controlarms, springs etc), spark plugs, wheelbearings, ABS sensors, waterpump, radiator etc. I also have a Jaguar from the early 80s, but thats a bigger nightmare to maintain because it was not made to be fixed (Thats my suspicion at least).

I actually quite like the E39. It drives really well. But Since I`m getting a 993 I really dont need any sportiness in any other car. But I would love to have a sensible car for going skiing, towing and having the dog in for walks etc. And I have loved the L322 since day one. My god its a cool car. I work as a journalist and do some pieces on cars. I was one of the first in Norway to test the L405, but it fell through. Probably because of the L322. Must add that the new RRS is much better. Its really good (not perfect, but I loved it).

What system for diagnostics is wise for the L322? I have a guy that does the diagnostics on the E39 for me. It uses a OBDII system. Whats it on the L322?

Last edited by MariusRR on 6th Dec 2013 1:33pm. Edited 1 time in total

Lots of threads on diagnostics.

Pics and info on the Jag required first!

Done loads on mine, all reasonably straight forward and plenty room to get in around things. Definitely need diagnostic tools for the electronics but these are not expensive and the knowledge on the forum is great

My Jag-mechanic has a Oslo Blue 03' L322 Vogue. Low milage.The car is in very good shape, but the engine is shot. He doesn't have the time to fix it (allthough he wants to).
I can buy the car, a 4.4, for next to nothing. How much will it cost me to swap the engine? Keep? who might have sn engine? In mind prices for Cars In Norway are insane.

I haven't done too much outside of oil and fluid changes and a few basic repairs, but so far it's proven to be easy enough to work on. I always do repairs myself though on all my cars (and have done so since I was a kid - helping dad that is). Aside from how many extra bits you have to remove to get to something, I find the RR to be just as DIY friendly as any other car (with my wrangler there is nothing in the engine bay except the engine so it's not a problem, but boy are there a ton of gadgets in that RR bay).

I suppose the deciding issue could be part costs, especially with all the electronics in a vehicle like this. Get yourself a diagnostic tool and a copy of the workshop manual. Both are easy to find and make repairs a breeze.

Seriousness aside, rjp996 sure said it with having that 6000lbs sitting over you. Boy did I overkill it with jack stands when I first got underneath it. I had 4, 6 ton jack stands holding up the front end alone, not to mention I kept both my trolly jacks under tension at the lifting spots on each side just incase all 4 jack stands happened to fail. Can you tell I hate being underneath vehicles? 2007 Range Rover Supercharged
2003 Jeep Wrangler

rvank.com

These cars are not that frighteneing to work on as long as you have as a bit of knowledge and sympathy. After all they are just bits of metsal and plastic held together with nuts and bolts controlled by complex electroncs. Nearly all information is available on this site and others for working on these cars, except for some reason why I have my my OBC display which no sitre has been able top answer
As these are becoming more affordable for those of us at the lower end of the financial ladder then more will be serviced at home.
Get yourself an IIDGap tool for diagnostics to learn what is a problem and what isn't.

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto

An engine @ £4K if you can find one and then add at least 50% to have it fitted.

DIY is straight forward if you follow RAVE and the howtos on site, but you will need diagnostics to be successful if DIYing the EAS other ECU controlled functions of the car. You seem to have the will and the experience to take on what is involved

Parts can be a bit silly money sometimes from LR, but there is a growing after market, and if something big goes expect a big bill (on an older model I would allow for up to £2K a year, depending on what has already been fixed) and if you can get a good warranty that might be the alternative.

Doing you own DIY does save on workshop labour costs, but you need a good set of tools and space, time etc.

My best investments have been the RSW AllComms, GAP IIDTool, Bush Pressing Kit, Multimeter, Viscous Fan Spanner, 16" breaker bar and a freebie of two trampoline legs for extra leverage on the big bolts on the car! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

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