Rave says that if you disconnect any brake pipes at the ABS unit you need Testbook to reset / fix things

I am working up to renewing all my brake lines after MOT advisories, MOT guy only noted the four flexibles and associated metal pipes to them as an issue, but I am guessing the long run from front to back may also need attention, along with the metal pipes from the front flexis upwards, and I understand that these run straight to the ABS unit.

I have IIDTool if that helps

RAVE:

"Bleed brakes using Testbook/T4"
"To ensure correct operation, the ABS system MUST be tested using TestBook/T4."

"Check
1. The following procedure covers bleeding the complete system but where only the primary or secondary circuit have been disturbed in isolation, it should only be necessary to bleed that system. Partial bleeding of the hydraulic system is only permissible if a brake pipe or hose has been disconnected with only minor loss of fluid.

WARNING: If any components upstream of brake modulator, including the modulator
itself are replaced, the brake system must be bled using the procedure on TestBook/
T4, to ensure that all air is expelled from the new component(s)." .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I think you have to run the ABS system using Testbook to ensure all air is out otherwise it's impossible to bleed fully.

So what is the "brake modulator" ? Is it the block in the engine bay next to the diesel cooler rad with all the plasctic coated pipes going in and out of it? If so I will only be doing the pipes going from it to the wheels, so shouldn't need to worry?

Never needed to use Testbook or anything else when I replaced my brake pipes last year

If you disconnect any pipes from the modulator block there is the risk fluid will bleed out of it and let air in.
If this happens you need to run the ABS using Testbook to clear the air.
If you don't go near the modulator block you should be able to just bleed the individual pipes as normal.
The modulator block is the lump of metal you have arrowed.

Thanks guys.

Did you change pipes at the modulator block John?

I have yet to discover where the pipes go/end up once they (the front ones disappear behind the wheel arch cover, the rear ones disappear behind the front mudflap/wheel arch cover) get hidden behind the wheel arch covers. Are there other connectors in the run? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I had the engine light come on after replacing the calipers as there was still air in the system.

Yes I run the new pipes into the modulator block and bled the system using easy-bleed without any faults showing up

I have also changed my brake pipes from the modulator, albeit only the fronts but did that and bled the old fashioned way with no issues.
Roger

That's all good news

Thanks .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Are all the nuts. unions and connections 10mm / 3/16" pipe and are there any special connectors (am thinking of the banjo one at the rear end) ?

[EDIT] Yes they are, and fortunately the new rear pipes come with the nut .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Well I have been getting all the pieces together, parts and tools for brake pipe swap.

Bought one of these kits:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390289320181?ssP...1439.l2648


and four or five goes with the pipe flaring tool with very poor results so bought one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181063197795?ssP...1439.l2648


Which produced a perfect double flare at the first attempt, so well worth it. Here is a video of it in use, along with funky music

 .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Nice bit of kit, remember to put the nuts on the pipe before you flare it

You know I am going to forget don't you And it'll be the big long one from front to back! Best I do them first and concentrate  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I think the reset of the abs is esssentially a case of firing the solenoids in the abs block so that they push fluid through them to purge the air out.

What you could do is take the rr to somewhere where you can force the abs to kick in and fire the solenoids. An example maybe a steep hill and put hdc on and let the car brake itself down the hill by firing the solenoids. You can also accelerate while in hdc and when you let off, it will brake itself back quite hard.

Also a hard brake on a gravel surface to kick in abs works, or snow.

It goes without saying tho that you have brakes bled and working before heading out. I found that the brakes performed better after doing the hdc thing or used hdc in general. V8 or else ...