Well for some reason my FF has decided its not getting enough mechanical attention.

This morning on the way to an office once the engine had reached a certain heat, engine performance dropped like a rock so much so I could floor it but get very little power. I thought this might be turbo related but letting off I get the tell tale noise of a wastegate opening. Now when I stopped at the services for a minute and went to restart it took about 4-5seconds and then caught and did the same about 20minutes later when I got to a local shop. Once started it is a little rough to idle like it misses occasionally and again performance is

Now I'm thinking that i either have air being sucked into the Fuel Supply System when a pipe gets soft enough that a tiny crack becomes flexible enough to open up.

OR

An injector is failing/Failed...

Now I have a load of fuel line at home and although its not clear would do to replace some leak off pipes which is where I think I'll start and then the fuel filter to HP Pump feed pipe.

To do the HP feed pipe I'm guessing i need to remove the air filter box cover, and the engine top cover as well as i can see it vanish under the passenger side of the engine top cover

I have a 50/50 BioD/Diesel mix at the moment so I doubt its the fuel being too thick as it would be the opposite and wouldn't affect performance.

Anyone any input on related issues in their experience? FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

i'm guessing an injector failure would result in a lumpy engine which i dont think you're getting, i would go with the your fuel starvation or air in system theory... ... - .- -.




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A lovely way to spend a saturday
And there was me hoping to do a new filter and cook my lights  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Remember - common rail - check that the electrical connectors to the injectors are all good, before condemning one.

Can you check for fault codes?

Haven't got a fault code reader. Its really bad once the engine is warm and low and behold I had to stop the engine a few minutes ago when warm and now it won't catch when cranking. It was idling rough just as I pulled in and down on power for the last few miles so its gotta be air in the system as even if two injectors were dead it would still run but like a dog

Guess I now need to wait for it to cool down! Not good when I need to be 30miles away for 1800hrs in traffic! Can't keep a woman waiting can you!  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

good luck on the journey Will..  ... - .- -.




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Always happens when you're on a promise!

Think ill need it. Have a nice sucking sound coming from the engine bay so just trying some priming runs now  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Well i gave up in the end and left it a few hours.

Went back about 30 mins ago and with an extra few jump start volts started after hardly any cranking.

Got to be a pipe somewhere as cant see how an injector would go faulty when warm and how it wouldn't throw up a warning light either  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Well it was fine this morning for about 20mins then started again. it held speed fine at 60 for a good 30mins later and some light driving at about 30 and then just died

So got it recovered to work where i'll look at it tonight in the dark

I'm hoping after a boost it will start fine, if not i'll get it dragged home and look over the pipes but the guy that turned up said it really needs the inlet plenum taking off and checking around there but there is no air in the fuel upto the fuel filter and the clear section beyond it, confirming what i think of leak off pipe or something towards the Injection pump could be weeping.

There seems to be a few diverter valves in the system and i'm wondering if one of these is the issue  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Your wasting your efforts. Get to an Indy/Stealer and get the codes read these cars are very clever IT WILL tell you what the problem is.

Otherwise pop to Halfords buy a cheap code reader or you may just F-up stuff that is not broken.....

PS: The Chip Fat may not be helping long term.

Problem is gaz i get no warning lights whatsoever so not sure anything will show up on a FC reader unless its a good one like autologic/sdd/FSC-MSV as to see what pressures are being seen by the sensors

Its very strange as i'd expect the engine light to be on but its not... Have i just got a vehicle that doesn't want to warn of faults and just lets them happen....

PS its running 50-50 at the minute so shouldn't be having any undue effects on the system as i've tested it to contain no meth and no soaps so far as i test each batch before i use it  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Only OBD-2 Codes will throw the MIL on all the other "Many" codes are stored without a light. Thats why I suggest a trip to a Land Rover Equipped Indy or a Stealer. Testbook can even tell you which parking sensor is faulty let alone diagnose a fault that's stopped the engine working properly. I really think its the way forward to get a quick & safe solution...

Wish i had bought that £300 msv when i had the chance now

Cheers Gaz, I'm just sounding out one now that i think has a testbook and doesn't charge £80 to turn it on  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Also less than perfect BIODIESEL can/will leave some very nasty residue that will clog lots of fuel/injector parts....