Pm sent. cheers  '04 td6 se
'63 land rover s2 200tdi
'04 mk indy kitcar bike engine

Why not just use a VSR in the circuit to charge the second battery

Click

@47p2

Vsrs are useful, but wouldn't help in what im trying to achieve with this circuit.

@nicedayforit

That is very kind of you, PM sent

Kind regards, Luke

@47p2

Vsrs are useful, but wouldn't help in what im trying to achieve with this circuit.

@nicedayforit

That is very kind of you, PM sent

Kind regards, Luke

The link below shows photos and details of a custom L322 twin battery setup we are using in Oz. Great product and customer service !!! As you will see when you read the posts it took a while to get it sorted, but all questions were asked and replied too.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l322-range-rover...eries.html

Laurie

Interesting how Mercedes tackle the twin batteries in the W211

Click

Barracuda, the voltage sensitive relay should work. it will join both batteries above 13.7v ie when the engine is running and charging and then disconnect them when the voltage drops below 12.8v. dont see any benefit over a standard relay though other than possibly not needing to have a switched wire from the ignition. there are many ways to have a dual battery setup, just depends how much you want to spend. having looked at the wiring diagrams from nicedayforit there are just the 2 main + cables from the battery. one to the starter/alternator and the other to the rest of the vehicle. it is between the rest of the vehicle cable and the battery that you will have to put the relay, whichever one you choose. '04 td6 se
'63 land rover s2 200tdi
'04 mk indy kitcar bike engine

Yes, just had a look at the wiring diagrams, kindly given to me by nicedayforit.

It looks like you are right with the vsr, if i simply disconnect the C0192-1 idented cable (going to all the systems exept the starter motor and alternator) then place the vsr in between the primary battery and said cable, that will do exactly what i want it to do.

Then all i need to do is put a manual override in parallel to the vrs so i could use the primary battery as to supply the rest of the vehicle and start the engine if i run the aux battery down completely.

I hugely over complicated the original system as i was not sure if i could simply remove one of the primary battery cables without getting a voltage feedback through one of the circuits, this will still need testing (although it should be fine after looking at the wiring diagrams)

This is great news as a durite 140amp (way more that enough) vsr comes in at aroung £30,

Glad you've found the diagrams of use.

I agree what you are now proposing is now the way to go.
An interesting by-product of what you proposing is that by isolating the
"vehicle " wiring at ignition switch off, you are isolating all sources of parasite drain from the vehicle battery on the car bar a faulty alternator drain.

I think such a set up could well be a possible and very effective solution to the never ending problem of parasitic battery drain.
My only reservation to the set up is on turning the ignition off you isolate everything on the car instantly, no time is allowed for the car to go to "sleep".

At the moment I have no idea if this will cause a problem.
What you will probably find is that everytime you turn the ignition on you will get the Air Suspension Inactive message. Could get a bit tiresome having to do full lock to full lock everytime.
What other problems may come to light I hope you will advise us.
On the face of it, isolating the battery instantly is no worse than a "battery disconnect".

Time will tell.

nicedayforit wrote:

My only reservation to the set up is on turning the ignition off you isolate everything on the car instantly, no time is allowed for the car to go to "sleep".

You're right

This now makes me think this really maybe a way to isolate parasitic battery drain on the vehicle battery.

All you would need to do is install the VSR as you propose and fit a smaller secondary battery, back or front of the car, which would allow the car to go to sleep as normal and provide voltage for the alarm system during periods of non use.
Unfortunately the second battery would still drain, the question is "would it matter"

This modification could well result in the car being capable of starting even if the car was left to stand for weeks.

Have to have a think.

Thats it, it wont matter.

If the aux battery does become completely flat, all you would have to do is use the manual bypass (like this http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?m...Aod838ArQ)

Remember to turn it off once started,

Contact this guy

http://www.traxide.com.au/

Drives RR himself. Easy to comunicate with.Ships world wide. Highly recommended in OZ for LR stuff

Gary

Don't see what the problem is venting a battery. Drill a hole in the bodywork, give the bare metal some paint to protect it, fit a grommet and push the vent tube through the grommet.

Or one could tube out through one of the existing grommets behind the bumper (trailer wiring etc) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

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