The OEM one is a varta, and is not available as an aftermarket part so we are stuck with the dealer prices if we want one. I have seen them for sale on JaglandUK for about £70 but they dont hold stock.

I have looked into the CCA ratings of car batteries a lot over the past few weeks when trying what to do about the "too small" battery in mine. The original is 950 CCA (SAE) and the bosch batteries are rated differently. The standard european rating system is EN, and all the aftermarket bosch and Varta (varta make the bosch batteries for them) are rated using EN.

SAE and EN figures are produced using differing testing methods to get to a CCA figure, in this respect they are not directly comparable, however basically CCA (SAE) is a more "impressive" figure. A battery tested in using the two different methods will give a higher SAE figure than EN.

the different methods are :

EN: (European Standard EN50342.1 2006,previously EN 60095-1)
The test also is performed at -18°C. The EN requirement is however split into two levels EN1 and EN2.
EN1 - The battery is required to meet a voltage of 7.5V after
10 seconds and after 10 seconds rest, the battery is further
discharged @ 0.6 x original current and is required to complete
73s in the second stage giving a total combined discharge
period of 90 seconds (assume initial period equates to
(10s/0.6) 16.7 seconds.

EN2: As EN1 except that the second discharge period to 6.0V
should achieve 133 seconds giving a total time of 150
seconds. The discharge currents relationship to meet both
designs is very much subject to battery design and can vary
from manufacturer to manufacturers and design to design,
however as an overview of our benchmarking work at GS of
competitor batteries the relationship between EN1 and EN2 is:-
EN2 = 0.85% to 0.92% EN1

SAE (American Standard – commonly used in UK)
This is the starting test according to the SAE (Society of
Automotive Engineers).
The test specifies that the battery at a temperature of –18°C will deliver a current equal to the Cold
Cranking Amps for 30 seconds with the voltage staying above
7.2 volts (3.6 volts for a 6 volt battery).

Battery performance drops off quickly with temperature, so this
test is a good check of a battery’s starting ability as with 10s
voltage of EN rating and its need to support 30 seconds to
7.2V gives a good view of high rate capacity capability of the
battery.

^^off of the net somewhere.

I posted on this in another thread, there is a table out there somewhere which roughly compares SAE and EN figures. LR naturally want you to but their product meant for the FF, its designed to fit, gives an apparently high CCA figure of 950 CCA (SAE) and costs IRO of £150.

The bosch 110AH (020) battery is a to fit and cost £99 (from ecp with discount), it delivers 920 CCA (EN) this according to the table in the ether relates to a SAE rating of 1000 CCA (SAE). So the Bosch S5 should be well up to the job.

In terms of running internal gubbins such as the FBH it will be the AH rating which will be important as that is the figure which gives how much current a battery can sustain a over a period of 20h. For example a 100AH battery will sustain a current of 5a for 20h. Different test and parameters to the cranking ability of a battery.

I currently still have the S3 in and its pretty rubbish when using the FBH etc though it should be ok at 90AH, as this is the same rating as the original, it has a lower CCA rating and when it has had some drain is noticably slower to start. I have just ordered the 100 AH bosch S5 (830CCA EN) from ECP for £85. its slightly lower in absolute terms CCA wise at 830 EN but as these tests are carried out at extreme sub zero temperatures (-18c) it should be fine for the UK. And it fits, not a to get in. Will keep you guys posted as to whether it is good...  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

seems to me that the 100 AH battery is the one to go for. 110 AH gives a marginal improvement that you wouldn't notice day to day.
and the 100AH fits !
I still have the AGM from LR - but as soon as that shows signs of giving up the ghost, in will go the 100AH replacement.

I just wanted to giva an update to this

I have just purcahsed a Varta Silver L1 Battery from

www.advancedbatterysupplies.co.uk

they list it as the high output battery, all delivered naext day for £106.00 and it has a 5 year Warranty

Cheers

Dan

A combination of short runs and cold starts has drained my battery (as is customary at this time of year ). I have the Bosch S5 battery, so there are no improvements to be had there.

I am considering fitting one of these accessories so that I can monitor and easily charge with a C-Tek. http://www.ctekchargers.co.uk/ctek-56380.php

Am I correct in thinking that the boot 12v accessory socket is permanently live? If so, I could fit this to the removable side panel. Has anyone done this?

Brgds,

Paul

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH


I AM GETTING TO THE END OF MY FKIN TETHER WITH THESE FKIN BATTARY ISSUES ON THE RR, cant remeber how many times I have been stuck out now.

drive somewhere and then come back to car dead, key wont go past 1 turn with the steering lock clicking 3 times

told battery dead, bought new battery from ECP bosche S5 110ah, still had issues, found out alternator not charging above 12 amps, so bought new alternator.

cost for above £1000

also have Ctek and have recently been putting that on overnight while waiting on battery and alternator.


just gone out after 2 days and its done the clicking again waiting for AA


so dam mad atm on the verge of torching the thing