I have just had my wheels refurbed and when the guys at the wheel specialist put them on they pointed out that the wheel lugs and nuts had been copper slipped, BAD.

It must have been the MD which did it as they had it in for a service a couple of weeks prior and they weren't greased by me. Anyhow the wheel guys torqued up the nuts correctly, and sent me on my way with a polite warning to recheck them in a week or two.

I had covered about 20 miles in that week (i know almost walk that) so i gave them a tweak with the torque wrench, all was fine. Roll forward a week and a couple of motorway trips of about 100miles and getting a vibration through the steering.

Must have chucked a weight off i think. Back to the wheel guys. Who had a look. Low and behold the nuts had worked loose.

Took off the wheels and they were balanced fine, and while i was there gave the lugs a good wipe and inside the front nuts too. Looks like im going to have to get some degreaser on them.

So moral of the story....check your nuts for grease and re torque. Or your wheels might come off  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Thanks for the warning. I will give my nuts a tug later today to check! Tom

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I'm meeting Mick later today,I'll get him to tighten up my nuts

Have always put a bit of copper slip/ease on my wheel studs (not a lot, just enough), never had a problem, on any car ? Could be they weren't tightened up properly in the first place? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
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Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

your refurbs probably had a bit of muck in the nut wells , hence them coming loose.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

When the wheels are powder coated the face where the nuts tighten onto are also coated, when you tighten the nuts this facing is scratched and removed and it is recommended that the wheel nuts are checked 4 or 5 times before they are properly seated in

Joe90, i gave them a good tug at the weekend, did 100 miles, then were lose. I have now put the wrench in the car and will give them a check weekly.

I have seen recently quite a bit about lubing your nuts, as im a caravanner, and Bailey have had a problem with their nuts coming off their new range of vans.

I have been told, and read that if you put slip on them it magnifies the force applied so even though you have the wrence set to 140nm the actual tightening force will be a lot more, so something like that.

Anyway ill see how we go now and keep a check over the next few weeks. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

mr Jones, i would undo each nut one by one and clear out any muck in the well... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

I always put coppaslip on wheel nuts (and more importantly the face of the wheel where it contacts the steel hub).

I would also think the comment re the new finish on the wheel or muck in the bolt wells causing the problem is accurate.

To back that up some anorak info! To clamp properly a bolt/nut is required to stretch a certain amount. The torque setting is just an approximation of how hard you need to turn the nut to acheive that stretch. If you build a high performance engine properly you actually measure bolt stretch for key areas such as rod bolts rather than using a torque wrench.

Given you have lube on there, if you have used a torque wrench to tighten them, they will actually be "tighter" than required! Another example of this, when you swap out standard main bearing bolts for ARP bolts which come with a lube, you would actually torque them up to a lower torque setting. The lube won't cause the nuts to come off, lack of stretch will. Any debris between the nut and the seating face that will wear away over time will cause this.

Sorry for the dull post  Lloyd Barnes

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Last edited by Lloyd Barnes on 20th Dec 2012 1:52pm. Edited 1 time in total

Joe90, i gave them a good tug at the weekend, did 100 miles, then were lose. I have now put the wrench in the car and will give them a check weekly.

I have seen recently quite a bit about lubing your nuts, as im a caravanner, and Bailey have had a problem with their nuts coming off their new range of vans.

I have been told, and read that if you put slip on them it magnifies the force applied so even though you have the wrence set to 140nm the actual tightening force will be a lot more, so something like that.

Anyway ill see how we go now and keep a check over the next few weeks. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

I'm a regular copper greaser too

Back of the wheels and a touch on the thread whenever I change between winter & summer wheels - never had a problem, but a useful reminder to do a regular check.

Torque wrench - hmmmm.........140nm - hmmmm.............. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Joe90 wrote:

Have always put a bit of copper slip/ease on my wheel studs (not a lot, just enough), never had a problem, on any car ? Could be they weren't tightened up properly in the first place?

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A lot of garages don't use a torque wrench - just over tighten them - which stretches them. If you then use the original torque setting it may not be enough. As I had explained to me: -

Quote:

It's important not to over tighten wheel nuts, as they are designed to stretch. If they are too tight in the first place they can not do this when required. If you over tighten them even once by a large % they will lose this stretch permanently.