Hello All,

Well, I've had my 2007 TDV8 for 12 months and covered 23,000 miles.

During that time I've had zero major problems, a couple of really minor faults, and generally concluded that this is the best car I've ever owned (and I've owned plenty... much to my wife's annoyance...)

I have no clangs bangs bad noises weird gear changes or anything other than a very smooth and tight-as-a-drum ride for my 302-mile motorway commute.

However, I was wondering if at this particular mileage I should be proactively doing any maintenance? I was thinking of getting the megaflush in January as I'm not too far from the blokes who do it.

But, is there anything else I should be keeping an eye out for or budgeting for in the near future? I'm going to be keeping this car for the foreseeable because I just can't find anything better for what I want.

Cheers all, appreciate any comments (nothing too scary please! ) - Ad augusta per angusta -

Altenators do fail, my fbh packed up recently, but ive not heard any real horror stories mechanically. The gearboxes are a lot lot more reliable afaik, and lr have a scheduled box oil change at about 100k. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Just done the same, now just under 100k so from my experience...

Rear caliper sticking (Grrr, see recent thread)
Alternator (in my case NOT the battery)
Front seat heating/cooling module
Gear selector switch lever getting worn, not the box itself, just the selector box, cheapo repair

All in the run up to 100k

I am not going to jinx anything re the frequently complained about part of the transmission, but suffice to say that the sun is shining , the boiler isn't making any strange noises and all seems normal and happy in my home IYSWIM...

thanks guys,

sleepezy - I had the rear brake caliper thing too but my local garage spotted it early doors and swapped it and it was solved in no time.

What was the cost of the fromt heat/cooling modulve fix if you dont mind me asking? - Ad augusta per angusta -

I'd look at maybe getting a gearbox flush as RRUK did as this will help the box last longer as clutch materials wear within the box and contaminate the oil its best to change it and at 5 years old now is a good time for it

Stay on top of the servicing and maybe cut the services down to every 10k at an indy if not already doing so as this is better for a diesel engine. 20k IMO is FAR FAR too long for oil and filters and 10k is pushing it really. I tend to stick to about 6 months or so as this has served me well in the past  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I used to think the same about oil changes, even changing mine more regularly than needed. Then I read a post on another forum by a guy whose job is to test oils. This is his response when I asked him his opinion on oil change intervals?

Quote:

This could be a very long, or a very short topic - i'll try to cover both;

The short one: do what the manufacturer says

The long one: The manufacturers put durability above anything else. They simply can't afford a reputation of engine failures - inside the warrantee period this means massive replacement costs, outside of the warrentee period this could mean class action suits if it's found that there's a defective part - or in this case - oil drain intervals that are too long when the specified oil is used. It also means massive brand damage.

The main factor when it comes to oil drain intervals is this; there's simply no incentive for the manufacturer to increase oil drain intervals:
- the end user pays for them, not the manufacturer.
- Their dealerships make more money with regular oil drains.
- there's no legislative penalties for having short oil drain intervals (5 L of oil every 10,000 miles is minimal compared to the L of fuel used over those 10,000 miles)

So when they specify oil drain intervals. They mean it. Oils on the market today are tested for use over a much longer period than 10,000 miles when being qualified (I ran an oil in my old car for 40,000 miles for this very reason - with engine inspection before and after).

In America it's slightly different. Firstly the quality of the oil specifications is generally lower than Europe; this means cheaper oil which competes on price rather than quality. The only way to make money from this is to sell more of it, so places (particularly quick oil change places) still push the 3000 mile oil drain interval hard. It's completely false even there - the oil can easily do 10,000 miles and most OEMs are pushing up to 6000 as a minimum now.

In short; there's really no reason to change it less than 10,000 miles. Stick to the recommendation in your service manual.

Quote:

the quality of oil now has increased massively. The oil you're putting in today is better than it ever has been

TBH i have seen a fair few engines reach high miles and its not only down to their usage but their service regime.

Manufactures extend service intervals as it looks better to fleet buyers and lowers the TCO.

When you see what the oil looks like after just a few k, even that in a diesel then running for 20k is just silly to me. The price of good oil and a filter is nothing compared to the price of an engine..

Disco's run on extended service cycles and look how many of those V6 engines end up Scrap  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Bomber - the replacement was completed under warranty so I don't know the cost for sure. I beleive it was over £1k but was an absolute pain to trace the fault which took over 3 days to find with half the cabin stripped out (or so I was told).

What symptoms did you guys get from the sticking rear calipers?

I have just had to swap the pads on mine as the rears failed an mot. But only one of the pads (outside passenger side) was worn low, the rest were fine. They were tight in the carrier but would have thougt that both sides would wear if it was sticking.

The other things that i have had done on mine:

Headlamp replaced
Transfer Gearbox resealed
New aircon controls
New fuel burning heater There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

I had no discernible symptoms until they were really grinding, at which point you could clearly hear them as you slowed (and sometimes when driving at constant but slow speeds). I could not feel any hesitating when accelerating

Excess brake dust on rear wheel/s and heat build up, rather like a stuck on handbrake. Then of course if you havent noticed that and the warning light fails to go off, metel on metal! Been there done it!!!