Hi all,

I recently fitted new brake pipes to my 2003 td6. After bleeding the brakes I have a good solid pedal just as it should be. When the engine is started and pressure put on the brake pedal it slowly sinks to the floor. Thinking this may be a faulty master cylinder I replaced it with a new one but the problem is still the same.
I am fairly confident that the brakes are bled properly and was wondering if the pre charge pump might be the cause.
Does the pre charge pump need to be bled and if so does anyone know how to do it?

Any help will be gratefully received.

Many thanks
Mike

IS the pedal going right to the floor, if I sit still and press the pedal with the engine running the pedal sinks almost to the floor if enough pressure is applied, but when driving the pedal feels fine and at MOT time the tester was well impressed with the brakes

Hi,
Pretty much down to the floor. On the road the brakes work perfectly but as it's MOT time I am thinking it will not pass.

If the pedal feels fine on the road then I would leave it

Thanks, I will book it in for an MOT and see how I go on

Mine does the exact same pedal to the floor on start up but when travelling the brakes work fine , have to admit at first i thought there was something wrong too ..

I noticed mine did the same thing when I bled the brakes, I thought I had a leak at one of the joints as I had replaced flexi pipes and calipers, but once out on the road the brakes are shiit hot...Nothing to worry about

As been said mines the same. Feels but if I put that much force into the peddle while driving I would be scraping my face off the steering wheel! [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

many thanks for all your replies. It makes me feel much happier to know that this is normal. I have spent the last two weeks checking and double checking everything I can think of.
Your input has been much appreciated.
Mike

Pedal creep by applying continuous pressure to the brake pedal is very common on diesel engined cars due to the vacuum available from the engine mounted vacuum pump. Basically there is generally to much vacuum available.
The problem is well known to VOSA who have in fact issued guidance to mot testers regarding the problem.
If the problem is pedal creep as you describe it is not a problem, it is a characteristic of brakes on diesel engined cars and is of no concern.
The simple answer is, don't sit and apply constant pressure to the brake pedal when stationary.
Provided your brakes operate when required to the necessary standard your brakes are fine.
I've come across this on a number of cars in the past some models are worse than others.

Hi all,

Just thought I would give you this update.
Today my FFRR passed it's MOT with no advisories.
Many thanks for all your input.

Mike

+1 on what nicedayforit said spot on
Roger

Same problem but on a 2004 L322 4.4 petrol
This seems more noticeable now after Fitting new callipers and discs.
I have drained fluid refilled and bleed through Using (Gunson Easybleed). No bubbles clean fluid no leaks as it should be.
Pedal does not inspire confidence.
I have had a similar problem with a Freelander TDi but no where near a pronounced as this.
Surely this can't be right.
Possible Comment welcome😏🚘

One of the ways of testing if your brake power assistance is working is to have pressure on the pedal when starting the engine. If it sinks a bit further then the servo is working if it doesn't then there is a possible problem with the servo.

If this is what you are experiencing I wouldn't worry. The pressure on the pedal when starting should be as if you were trying to brake not just putting your foot on it to satisfy the RR starting procedure.

HTH John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

Hi thanks for the return.
No it's more than that!
To discribed it a little better, once you have started the car and all system check have been done by the car you can put pressure on the pedal and it will slowly continue to go down. A similar but slower feeling to bleeding.
I know the process you are referring to and have done this as a servo check but this is not quite like that. It is not like when the master cylinder or the servo is starting to fail either. I have experienced all those in past exploits over the years.
Just didn't know if anyone knew of any idiosyncrasies with The Range Rover L322 2004 4.4L in particular.  Eddie the eagle watch out 👀