Finally got round to doing it (backup vehicles all available and running - just in case). Hope this is of help for others tackling the same thing, and provides the info the other tutorials have not! I know this is not a complete fluid exchange, but the best/easiest DIY approach, and with sufficient fluid can be repeated to get a good level of exchange. If you do three changes like this you will end up with @ 93% new fluid in the box - still cheaper than a full flush.

Background

Original (?) gearbox packed up just after Christmas in January '09 had it recovered to LR Harwoods in Basingstoke who fitted a recon unit. Since then have covered 38,000 miles. But on following advice from RRPhil decided to do a fluid change. Bought a 20 litre drum of Texamatic and a couple of syphon pump thingies off eBay, and gleaned everything I had to know off the forum. I extended the syphon piping with some air con pipe I had lying around, connecting it up with a sawn off pen case (!), duct tape and some cable ties. It worked!

Implementation

Got car into position on the drive, put into off road mode and left running to get existing fluid nicely warmed up for draining.

Engine off once warmed up.

Started by testing the syphons by decanting @ 4 litres of fluid from the drum into measuring jugs. Syphoning didn't work but the pumping action was quick and easy to transfer, so this seemed like it would work to get the fluid back into the car.

With oily towel (to catch the wind blown drips) and washing up bowl in place, I undid the drain plug using a T45 torx driver and socket bar. The fluid is slimy stuff making the plug slippery to completely undo. It is likely this will drop into the bowl! The fluid comes out quicker than engine oil! Left to drain for a while, cleaned up the plug and mating face, wiped down and refitted plug, tightening accordingly. Just under 5 litres came out.

Round to the other side of the car to undo the the filler plug (17mm?). No. Won't budge. Ring spanner went round on it. Tried socket, but you can get socket on OK but can't get a driver bar onto it because the propshaft is in the way. Quick dash to Halfords to buy a flare spanner. Nope. Grrr! Stilsons - Nope. Moleys - Nope. ! Why is this so bloody tight! Filler plug not looking very happy now and car stranded in middle of drive. Only one thing for it, so out with the cold chisel and hammer. Banged away for a bit, filler plug looking very ropey, just about to give up then ping round it went Moral of story, check you can undo filler plug before draining!

Here is the offending item, fortunately the mating face was undamaged, and there was sufficient flatness on two of the opposing sides to get it back up tight, until I get an new one from Dan. (£££ no doubt!)


Now for refill. Here we are all prepped and ready to go by the side of the car. Sufficient pipe and of the right diameter to fit into the filler hole (12mm outer diameter on pipe). It takes a bit of a shove to get it in (ooer missus!)


I scrambled underneath to get pipe into place, along with oily towel and bowl, then got No 1 son to watch for drips whilst I pumped away. Got about 4 litres in before it started pouring back out. Back underneath fit filler plug.

Cleaned up myself then got in the car and started up. With foot on the brake pedal and handbrake on I slowly worked my way through the gears (P - R - N - D - N - R - P) about five times, giving each gear @ 5 seconds and D about 10 seconds. Back into Park, handbrake on and left engine running.

Back underneath, removed filler plug, and pumped another litre of fluid into the box. It started pouring out before I finished but kept pumping the whole litre. Back underneath, filler plug in. Tighten as best I could with opened ended spanner.

Clean up! and Test Drive. Lovely. No real difference in behaviour (wasn't expecting any as was not having any problems before). I may go back in a week or so to check fluid level and filler plug tightness!

Here is the old fluid next to the new fluid:


In this picture you can see that the old fluid is still translucent but a dark browny/red colour, worth bearing in mind this is after 38K miles and "no problems". There were no bits in the oil and no glitter (phew!):


And comparing the two again:


I'll probably have another go in the Spring if not sooner to exchange a bit more of the old old oil now I have a good method in place. Not sure what my next stage would have been if I hadn't been able to budge the filler plug. Is there another way in? I guess this would be the cooler pipework?  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Joe good write up (again), are you not changing the filter as well?

Need to do this to mine as well, it just keeps getting put back as something else usually crops up.

As for your bolt problem I bought some of these "Irwin 5 Piece Bolt Grip Nut Remover Set". I looked at a couple of sets but the reviews wernt that good for the other makes.

Hope this helps for future advebtures/problems

Ah yes Bob - just the tool I needed  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

@Joe90, good work and good describtion, I had done this job one month ago, also reconn gearbox with now 45.000km, I have read a german instruction for this flushing, with good DexronIII, Texaco7045 is not necessary, new filter, new gasket, costs all 100 Euro, two hours time. Herre is the internet-link, in german, but good pictures, regards from germany, Uli

http://www.e39-forum.de/thread.php?threadi...bc3e8bca1c L405 SDV8 2017 + Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 + RRS L494 3.0 SDV6 + C220CDI Convertible 2021

PART 1 of 3

This issue is something for technically ambitious people who, contrary to the philosophy of maintenance-free automatic transmission fluid (ATF) - want to carry, lifetime oil filling ', itself a kind of basic maintenance on their automatic or are interested in, at least for this (preventive) option. This involves concretely to change the filter, the control box / channels flush, torque converters, rinse supply line flush, transmission oil cooler rinse and therefore ~ 94% transmission oil when 5L40-E transmission. If additionally rinsed nor the return line (for transmission) or discharged, such as I did it, you can reach an ATF change is> 94%. Due to the design is the flushing of this type of transmission, as I will describe in detail later, the only sensible way to achieve as complete a gearbox oil change. Moreover, with a relatively low financial and material expense. So no comparison to a standard ATF change without gearbox flush, which can only cause a (comparable incomplete) partial renewal and refreshing of old oil. Individual requirements prior is of course always the consideration of what oneself technically trusted to make ready and what not to. This consideration, therefore, everyone should make with yourself. As an alternative to self-power wave for technical professionals. . Services that can do this with appropriate remuneration and rejoice determined on contracts to service the automatic transmission according to the above an indicated effort is certainly challenging, but not impossible, and certainly to accomplish on their own performance. important is this: technical knowledge (as a property should Always know what you are doing) and complete preparation (material & information) as well as the ability to work calmly, patiently, and thoroughly clean to. Time yourself to be planned in advance and to have all the steps are more recipes for success. The most demanding at all, the default procedure to later reach the correct level in the oil pan when filling, even that is not a problem, if done in a planned and systematic way. That is the key to success! AUTOMATIC GM Hydra-Matic 5L40-E ' thematized The five-speed automatic, Hydra-Matic 5L40-E has so far been installed in various car brands, primarily of course for General Motors brands (eg Cadillac, Pontiac, Saturn, Holden, Opel ...). However, you will find this gear is not only in these vehicles, but also in certain car models from BMW, mainly diesel motorized (BMW Transmission type: A5S360R & A5S390R). For certain BMW-export models, mostly in-line six-cylinder petrol engines that were shipped to the United States, can be found depending on the year also has the 5L40-E transmission. nutshell: the gearbox is so widespread that it might make sense, worrying about its maintenance instructions. (At least this gives some suggestions on how the service might be made ​​in this transmission - without obligation.) Lubricated for life First some fundamental: According to the manufacturer, the 5L40-E transmission (not wait to oil - & filter change), because it has a so-called Lubricated for life ("Lifetime fill"), so as long works until the transmission fluid is exhausted in terms of performance (inevitable result = increased material wear) and therefore the gear sometime fails, broken is. A probable premature transmission failure, which would be avoided by regular maintenance, is therefore so part of this unsustainable life-design (reminiscent of the principle: "as much as necessary", rather than "as much as possible"). As a life-ATF was first , Texaco 7045 E 'used (yellow label), through which then later, Texaco ETL 8072 B' (green sticker) has been replaced. This ATF should the GM specification Dexron III; specifically the Texamatic 7045 E is in any event the Dexron III G. discordant attitudes towards different manufacturers Lubricated for life Other manufacturers, such as Mercedes-Benz recommend at their own automatic transmissions a unique ATF change after 60000 km mileage (see MB Circular PW No. 44/05 NFZ No. 20/05 ), can not see what you that the topic life fluid is likely to be controversial, and some manufacturers are now again will refrain from. Undeniably probably also even a lifetime oil with increasing mileage by its stress will diminish in terms of performance, which is unavoidable due to thermal effects. A variable factor influencing the persistence of an oil filling is of course the individual user profile = the load of the material as a whole (mostly city driving versus long-haul, heavy trailers versus no trailer ...). A preventative ATF and filter change can therefore so either every 5-6 years or 60000-120000 km (depending on use) appear useful if you want to positively influence the life of the transmission. automatic transmission fluid (ATF): BMW & GM ATF The question which must be used in the 5L40-E, there are certain differences between the respective information by BMW and GM, which may irritate. BMW is confined to prescribe life-ATF special products (eg special Texaco ATF), without giving any information to the general specification, which allows little choice. GM designed the ATF selection, however a bit more generous: it does not prescribe a specific ATF products of certain vendors, but only on the basis of lies GM Specification (Dexron) from the technically necessary framework from which the customer is free to choose, as for B . in general and in the selection of engine oil based on specifications is common. Since GM is the manufacturer of this type of transmission also, I weighted the data naturally stronger and orienting myself with the ATF selection of the specifications of the transmission manufacturer GM (this may logically comprehensible likely). specification GM had until 2006 in which the GM 5L40-E specification, Dexron III 'validity: Quote GM . "The Hydra-Matic 5L40-E uses DEXRON III fluid and is filled for life, Requiring no scheduled maintenance" http://www.media.gm.com/division/2005_pr...2005% 205L40.doc is the part of GM Dexron III 'extinct in 2006 and (backward compatible), as Dexron VI' have been replaced: GM Quote: "The Hydra -Matic 5L40 uses the new DEXRON ® VI fluid and is filled for life, Requiring no would be at an ATF change, strictly speaking, according to an ATF to use Dexron VI ', if you want to be considerate of any guarantee or warranty claims. After that claim deadlines have passed, but this is practically irrelevant. Conclusion, Dexron III 'and, Dexron VI' are, technically, usable in the 5L40-E up to and including built in 2005. should 5L40-E transmission from 2006, according with ATF , Dexron VI filled '. be ATF prices The price structure varies quite dramatically between the various ATF products. So you can from a wide range of spec a brand ATF Dexron III (G, H) currently purchase for ~ 5-8 € / liter, with products for Dexron VI is the current selection in Germany is still relatively poor and the ATF Spec Dexron VI now costs ~ 11-13 € / liter, which at 9 plus L-change volume flow volume can be a costly endeavor. Of course a Dexron VI is improved properties compared to a Dexron III have, undisputed, the question remains open whether this is the exorbitant extra cost of ~ 6-8 € / liter may actually be worth it? Although the Dexron III specification by GM invalid since 2006 was, I decided nevertheless to purchase a corresponding gear oil, because I have the significant added cost of a Dexron VI (twice as expensive!) regard as unjustified. That being said, the selection is under Dexron III ATF considerably more extensive than Dexron VI ATF. My choice was the product of Meguin, Megol transmission fluid ATF III ', which I bought 15 liters (for a thorough transmission flush is usually something spent more oil than a normal gearbox oil without flushing). D. h for my guidance about 12-15 L Transmission oil is spent. 15 L ATF Dexron III including shipping cost me around 83, -. € Meguin sheet is to replace the ATF filling the GM Hydra-Matic 5L40-E, as already mentioned, 9 liters. Each liter used also serves the transmission flush. Therefore, one should at ATF purchase not be too fussy when procured liter quantity, so that the flushing is not neglected. (gear oil) Filter Set The transmission filters of the 5L40-E transmission is manufactured by IBS Filtran and has two annular seals. Since you should also replace the GM seal the transmission oil pan and the 20 bolts of the oil pan, it is advisable to buy a suitable filter set in which all the above items are included. The filter kit currently costs ~ 70 € at the local BMW parts trade. BMW Part Number:. (! not suitable for USA model BMW X5) 24 11 7557071 Other Materials Furthermore, you need tools to loosen bolts ( eg 10mm socket for bolts of the oil pan), Torx (a spatially compact Torx T45) for the control screw, a small funnel, a scaled waste oil collection tank / container with a capacity of about 12-14 liters, at least one aerosol brake cleaner, kriechfähiges oil (eg Ballistol special oil / gun oil), optionally a graduated measuring cup, plenty of documentation for any spills (eg, a piece of plastic), disposable gloves, lint-free cloth material, 2 pieces of transparent tubing 1m and 2m (from about 1 cm in diameter ) and a suitable hose clamp, (optional for 2m hose. An oil pump or oil press, filling), if a new gasket for the ATF return port on the transmission cooler in order to carry out maintenance work under the vehicle on the gearbox, one needs of course a tech. Device which allows. So each condition after a pit lift or four jack stands and a jack. Two things are important: their own safety must be guaranteed when working strictly and the vehicle must, however, be accurately positioned horizontally, which is particularly important and tech. indispensable for the later oil level approximation is.

PART 2 of 3


expiration

The now following procedure describes the steps needed to wait for the 5L40-E transmission (ATF change, filter replacement, electrical panel / flush channels, torque converter flush supply line flush, transmission oil cooler flush). First the car hot , drive it the transmission fluid (ATF) is brought up to temperature and the ATF can absorb existing Micro-Schwebstoffe/Abrieb that is too small to get caught in the filter. Alternatively, leave the car in the state run 15-20 minutes, using the same drive wheels lock / handbrake / parking brake firmly and shift stage D 'insert (Note: Never give gas - feet off the accelerator!) then shift into P '(park position) position, stop the engine. Is to make sure that the handbrake / parking brake (still) are tight! Now the car jack up on level ground exactly horizontal, lift or go into the pit. Dismantle An underside of the vehicle possibly hindering covers / encapsulation. task now is to find out which position on simplest ATF return line can be separated on the automatic transmission oil cooler, in order to branch off the ATF in return by the transmission oil cooler connection can. Recommended for this is, for example, the area where the transmission oil cooler and the return line. This measure allows the transmission fluid also pumped by the oil pump of the automatic transmission with the engine running, which for all the subsequent steps, especially the flushing process, is necessary. The diverted return on starting the transmission oil cooler is fed into a scaled container for the used oil, with additional tubing, about 1m long, should be prepared to be an extension of the return (= hose to the transmission oil cooler return). In the implementation should be a bit creative, because the branches of the return is not a standard solution to the oil cooler. Note also that you return line does not swap with parallel mounted supply line so that the transmission fluid does not come herausgeprescht from the wrong line. If so far everything is done we go with the emptying of the oil pan: engine, P Start ', no throttle and immediately the old ATF comes from the return line shot out, in the scaled Auffang-/Sammel-Behälter. Note: This happens very, very quickly, within a few seconds! Once the scaling ATF receptacle indicates a level of 5 liters of ATF (after about 15-20 seconds, no more), immediately (!) Turn off the engine, so that the system does not run dry. One should be very careful so that the engine can be run only as long as necessary. In the oil pan of transmission should then only around 0.5 liters old ATF be included after the oil circuit with this method were 5 liters of ATF revoked. Next, the oil pan is removed, what exactly 20 screws have to be removed. To use a 10mm socket. The oil drain plug is deliberately not touched because of this procedure does not matter and in the sump now contain only a small quantity of ATF, approximately 0.5 L, is (still care when removing the oil pan = exactly horizontal decrease). Just a note for dismantling the oil pan: it is not unlikely that one or other of the oil pan screw clamps the screw out in the thread, as I discovered myself. In addition, these screws are very sensitive so they can tear easily. Therefore, you might want to question multiple screws from above and below oiled (Ballistol oil or other oil kriechfähiges) and the screws as far as it goes, in the thread to turn back and forth, from stop to stop until it without excessive effort are unscrewed. (Even a single, abrupt screw still is not a tragedy, the oil pan can still lose weight and also without that screw later assemble oil tight again.) Pour the oil pan capacity in the scaled oil collecting container. Not only the oil pan, but also the old oil pan gasket removed from the gearbox if it gets stuck on the transmission. . Otherwise, remove the seal from the oil pan Now remove the oil filter from the transmission gear, he is simply plugged in and can be pulled down. Important: it must also come out with two round seals! Is not the case, so they are still in the gear and have to be removed, which fiddly - is - but doable. The oil from the filter also in the scaled oil collecting container. Here is a picture of 5L40-E without a filter. The next step is to examine the inside of the oil pan. What is the nature of the surfaces in the interior of the oil pan and the magnets? Are there any (unusual) deposits? give yourself over to a thorough review, is (of course) mandatory by virtue of the already offered opportunity. fact that the magnet usually be occupied with some metallic abrasion is in fact appears to be normal so far, insofar as these are explicitly by a gray-greasy sludge metal and dust are no large metal shavings. will be followed by the meticulous cleaning of the sump inside including magnets. For this you use a spray brake cleaner and sprayed the perpendicular held oil pan so top generously to bottom until it and the magnet are sparkling. If additionally be wiped with a cloth must (magnetic), ensure that no lint or other foreign material remain in the oil pan. So accurate work and ensure meticulous cleanliness. Next step is to install the new transmission oil filter (filter gaskets includes two round) in the gearbox. Then we continue with the cleaned oil pan, on which the new oil pan gasket is placed accurately. The bearing surfaces of the seal to the oil pan, as well as on the transmission should have been cleaned in advance. For mounting of the oil pan to the virgin screws are used, which are included in the filter set. Tighten each screw immediately, but gradually and tighten evenly (10 nm). For now following activities, first the control screw (T45) away. This is located on the driver's side above the oil pan. With this opening allows the transmission Fill and later adjust the oil level as specified. can to fill the oil pan you use eg a hose pump or an oil press. I used a 2m long, transparent tube, which I have in a steep angle out from the engine compartment to the transmission. The lower end portion led to the control screw opening into the upper end I put a handy funnel. If the hose when filling additionally slightly raises the carriage of gravity into the ATF easily through the tube into the oil pan. This is simple and practical. This way I then filled the oil pan to transmission oil leaking from the inspection hole. Until that time I had filled about 3.5 to 4 L ATF. Well we went to the rinsing process. Start with the handbrake on (!) Engine and load to wash immediately switching stage, R ', for a few seconds. After that run the motor in short circuit level, D 'for a few seconds to flush. Switching stage then in 'N' and immediately shut off the engine. All this should take no longer than 10-15 seconds, so that the system does not run dry. Now fill the oil pan again until oil comes out of the inspection hole. Then start the engine and engage directly switching stage, D 'for about 10-15 seconds to flush. Immediately withdraw in switching stage, N ', switch off the engine. Repeat steps (fill-rinse-fill-rinse ...) in the preceding paragraph as often emerges from the return line of fresh, red-colored ATF. Then the transmission is (almost) completely rinsed with fresh ATF and the old ATF also promoted largely. (I have finished rinsing process after the collection vessel loud scale 12 L ATF were collected and only fresh, red ATF leaking from the return line. Among 12 L ATF accounts in used oil collection container around 9 liters of the old life fluid and 3 additional liters of Dexron III to rinse.) After flushing out the return line back to the transmission oil cooler renew (possibly seal) if available. sump fill up again until oil emerges from the control port. Then start the engine, the air conditioner ON (default) and all levels in the state by switching off one after another, taking each shift step can be inserted several seconds. Then step back in 'P' and continue to let the engine run. Meanwhile, back gear oil until it flows out of the inspection hole. Once this happens, the control lock first opening with the screw (20 nm), then exhibit motor and allow the gear to cool for at least 2 hours.

PART 3 of 3


oil level by opening Control

After the transmission has cooled, the oil level should be checked as accurately as possible, if necessary, adjusted. For it must be the transmission oil temperature between 30-50 ° C, not lower or higher! (Tendency to 30 ° C is considered to be more advantageous than 50 ° C. Physically, it takes the smaller extension to something more ATF at 30 ° C than at 50 ° C.) The car was unloaded and necessarily placed in a flat / horizontal position be. Start the engine and let it run, switching stage, P ', turn on air conditioning. All levels in the state by switching off one after another, taking each shift step can be inserted several seconds. Switching stage back in 'P' and engine still running. Remove check plug and possibly catch dripping oil. Once the required temperature range (30-50 ° C), the gearbox oil only an inch thick leaves, the oil level is adjusted appropriately. If there is no oil leak, must continue to be filled until it flows out of the inspection hole. Then close the control immediately opening (20 NM). Check that the oil pan is nowhere dense and oil leaks. Stop the engine. Completed first inspection. test drive vehicle again condescend to the wheels and really a test drive, for example, on a country road, perform. Making sure that all the stages are connected, up to fifth Switching stage. final then lift the car again / Jack up and cool down for 2 hours. Now repeat the following steps: After the transmission has cooled, the oil level should be checked as accurately as possible, if necessary, be adjusted. For it must be the transmission oil temperature between 30-50 ° C, not lower or higher! The car should be unloaded and placed in absolutely flat / horizontal position. Start the engine and let it run, switching stage, P ', turn on air conditioning. All levels in the state by switching off one after another, taking each shift step can be inserted several seconds. Switching stage back in 'P' and engine still running. Remove check plug and possibly catch dripping oil. Once the required temperature range (30-50 ° C), the gearbox oil only an inch thick leaves, the oil level is adjusted appropriately. If there is no oil leak, must continue to be filled until it flows out of the inspection hole. Then close the control immediately opening (20 NM). Check that the oil pan is nowhere dense and oil leaks. Stop the engine. Final inspection completed. (Note: how often do you check the oil level is up to each own two inspections, one before and the other after the test drive, are recommended and given proper functioning quite common, in their own interest an automatic gearbox responds commonly on sensitive.. .! an underfill or overfill with oil by an improper oil level can therefore lead to shifting problems or damage) If, despite the oil level is occurring complaints in switching behavior, should the transmission adaptation delete () can. Done! Generally applicable Guiding instructions: Errors and omissions excepted! All liability is excluded! Use of this guide is done at your own risk, of course, so every user carries any risks yourself! caution when working under the vehicle! Caution during the washing process, specifically in the state where the vehicle is stationary with the parking brake in the relevant switching stages, D 'or' R 'is on! The drive shaft must be absolutely blocked while such approach that the vehicle rolled down uncontrollably not / can! Leftover ATF can be used at a later date if necessary to refill. Often Dexron III is used for the power steering or for manual transmissions, unless it is approved for use. costs: supplies = cost: 15 L Transmission oil Dexron III + 83, - € BMW Filter Set + 70, - € incidentals / Hoses + 10, - € cost = 163, - € result switching behavior Mint. Turns subjectively somewhat softer, imperceptible than before (there was previously no problems). Additionally indicated the subjective impression, which was won by the Tour of the oil inside of the bath and the magnet, points to a very healthy gearing and low wear. Ancient life-ATF was purely visual also still in good condition, although it is still in its stress significantly has become darker (the difference to mint ATF shows the comparison photo vividly). Thanks Gearbox Service, chances are therefore good that it will probably work for a long time properly. Moreover, this was due to the low maintenance cost very affordable. --------------------------------------- - Addendum --- From July 2012 --- (page 11 of this issue) Here is the video tutorial for additional automatic flushing, Öl/ATF- & filter change, for the 'Do it yourself.' Group: Part 1/2 Part 2/2 ----------------------------------------- Note DIMA 2.5 TD to excitation attached some additional Internet addresses that could be perhaps informative: GM Hydra-Matic 5L40-E - Specification (Dexron III) life-ATF & Gear Maintenance (very extended) http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php t = 494219 compare images: Magnetic & ATF a GM Hydra-Matic 5L40-E in the BMW 325iA http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sho...5&postcount=323 ATF change, sometimes illustrated: GM Hydra-Matic 5L40-E in BMW Illustrated: GM Hydra-Matic 5L40-E in the BMW 328iA http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpos...0&postcount=135 transmission flush - transmission flush. Vendor-independent basic principle: ATF return Maintenance: http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/servle...34/B305_240.pdf

I preferred "my way" (took less time to write up for a start ) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

to tim..  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

That is an interesting document but a bit too long winded and difficult to read. I gave up half way lol

It is interesting to find a way of draining virtually all the fluid out though. No longer FF owner but still interested. Present car Jaguar XE
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Previous car Td6 SE
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