Hi

I first saw the details for this set up via a post from Wiggs over on the Discovery forum:

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic67628.h...te+dialler

Seemed a great idea, so I've just completed the install in my 2008 MY Vogue SE.

I purchased the Quantek GSM 500 GSM controller direct from Quantek, and picked up a spare T91 remote off ebay for �30.

Unfortunately, I forgot to take any pictures of the soldering job on the T91 unit. Best to refer to Wiggs's post referenced above for details of this.

I decided to install it in the rear fuse box compartment - here's what it looked like before I started:

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Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Very nice, good write up as well!

I am tempted to try this on my car as I like the idea (that during the colder months) of being able to call the heater as I get off the plane/ before I leave a meeting etc and the car will be nice and warm by the time I get to it.

The T91 remote has a good range, but not that good

Does the dial up warm up work on Jacqui too??

Or do the 91 missed emails count against you???

I'll get my coat...

I'm confused....not for the first time. How does the auxiliary heating work normally? 07MY SC VSE (on its way)

The list of previous cars is long & some are boring there has been two RRC's and a very pimped hilux

gabbo wrote:

I'm confused....not for the first time. How does the auxiliary heating work normally?

What a great upgrade, nice write up. Thanks! Tom

Current Drive
2011 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography - Santorini Black - Ivory Leather

Previous Drives
2004 Model Vogue Td6 (Touchscreen) - Java Black - Parchment Leather
1994 RR Classic 3.9 V8 Soft dash - Niagara Grey - Grey Leather
1972 Series III SWB Safari - Green (Hand Painted) - Black Plastic

Very nice job!

But you don't need the remote in back: the receiver for the remote has 3 wires going to it (& antenna): r/something +, bn/something gnd, and a gn/wt signal to FBH. The FBH gets a 12V signal, so all you have to do is have your GSM controller bridge the r/? and gn/wt. Easy peasy.  
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

SteveMFr wrote:

Very nice job!

But you don't need the remote in back: the receiver for the remote has 3 wires going to it (& antenna): r/something +, bn/something gnd, and a gn/wt signal to FBH. The FBH gets a 12V signal, so all you have to do is have your GSM controller bridge the r/? and gn/wt. Easy peasy.

Welll it's not something that you can know easily - most things in our cars happen because data is sent over a bus. An old fashioned + or - signal...

You do have one advantage now. The FBH runs for 1/2 hr and shuts back off automatically. You'd have to add a timing circuit to achieve that. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

SteveMFr wrote:

You do have one advantage now. The FBH runs for 1/2 hr and shuts back off automatically. You'd have to add a timing circuit to achieve that.

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the FBH will run as long as it gets a 12v signal on the gn/wt wire. There is a cut-of after 1/2 hr and a low voltage cut-off. I believe the 1/2 hr is controlled by the remote receiver and the low-voltage is in the FBH ECU, but I have never verified this.

With your current set-up, you essentially have retained all stock functionality, so you won't have to worry about this. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

SteveMFr wrote:

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the FBH will run as long as it gets a 12v signal on the gn/wt wire. There is a cut-of after 1/2 hr and a low voltage cut-off. I believe the 1/2 hr is controlled by the remote receiver and the low-voltage is in the FBH ECU, but I have never verified this.

With your current set-up, you essentially have retained all stock functionality, so you won't have to worry about this.

Is it possible to do the following to make mainting the setup that much easier?

1. T into the current GSM attena cabling in that area?

2. Power the T91 from the power sockets as well as the power drain when not in use must be milliamps, and will only spike when its activated and thus means less battery replacements as well??

PS i do love that install and if there is a way to get away from using the T91 it would bring the cost of it down by 50% nearly  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

1. - No idea if this is possible or not. But why would you bother? The quantek comes with a perfectly usable aerial, or if you want something a bit neater you can spend �6 or so and get the stubby aerial.

2. - The T91 runs off a 6V battery, so can't see how you could do that. I don't understand what you mean by "power drain when not in use" - it's no different to the "power drain" that the T91 remote on my key ring has. To avoid any confusion, the connections to the T91 in my set up above are simply a bridge across the terminals of the "on" button in the remote. The relay in the Quantek unit momentarily completes the circuit, thus sending a signal. It's no different than if you pressed the button with your thumb.

A T91 remote is �30. A Quantek 500 is �100, so not sure how you reach your 50% saving calculation!!

I have a spare Quantek 500 unit that I bought for a mate to do the same modification, but he has decided to swap his RR for a BMW (don't ask...!) - I've put the Quantek unit up for sale in the for sale / wanted thread.