I've been plagued with P0088-17 for almost 2 months and have tested almost all related components unfortunately the problem still persist. Looking back at the recent service items I can't help but to suspect the culprit could be a replacement crankshaft trigger wheels when I did the main seals. The car works fine in almost every aspect. From start up, cruising, on/off boost. The trigger point is only at 3.6k rpm at WOT when pushing at 4th gear onwards. From conversation with the earlier mechanic I learnt that the trigger wheel is pressed fitted and have no clear identifier on the exact angle to fit. The shop followed the same markings from my previous trigger wheel as a guidance which I think might be a little off, however not enough to affect normal drivability and throw codes. Its only when the injectors demand high pressures at higher rpm at full load that the variance start to show gaps. At 3.6k during full load the ECU is reading 220k kpa fuel rail pressure which is about 20k kpa higher than the commanded pressure.

Honestly I'm at a lost already and can only revisit the items performed that may impact this problem. I'm hoping someone here have the service manual to time the crankshaft trigger wheel and hopefully I can solve this problem for good.

Not correct!
There is a JLR service tool for trigger wheel installation, it locates in a dowel hole in the crank and a hole in the trigger wheel to ensure perfect alignment. Absolute suicide installing without the correct tool, as even half a degree out will have an impact.

Don't be tempted by a non genuine tool as they have play in them and don't give an accurate position.

See https://jlrequipment.service-solutions.com...U=303-1237 L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Appreciate the feedback and thank you for the link 4RRS. I just saw a video by LRTimes ?si=H6-a3Ac3t-O7tlf9. I think at 9mins into the video he was explaining about the freeplay on the tool so he manufactured his own. So there is a fixed dowel pin hole in the crank side which will align with a fixed position to the trigger wheel making it impossible to time the engine wrongly? That's if the shop have the correct tool for it. Is there any requirement to turn the engine to TDC before performing this task?

Engine does not have to be at TDC as the tool locates relative to the crank and trigger wheel. You literally cannot get it wrong. Make sure the correct tool is used as the 306DT (3.0L diesel) tool will fit but you'll end up with incorrect timing as the tools are virtually identical, but not quite.

I bought mine from Bosch and it shipped in 2 days. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

You saved me alot of trouble on this one. I would be in a world of pain if gotten the wrong tool for the job. Appreciate the advise.

4RRS wrote:

Engine does not have to be at TDC as the tool locates relative to the crank and trigger wheel. You literally cannot get it wrong. Make sure the correct tool is used as the 306DT (3.0L diesel) tool will fit but you'll end up with incorrect timing as the tools are virtually identical, but not quite.

I bought mine from Bosch and it shipped in 2 days.

I'm not aware the position has to be learnt as its a definitive value with no tolerance. The trigger wheels should only be fitted once due to the possibility of damaging the magnets when removing it. Was it a genuine trigger wheel you fitted, as I have seen on LR time YouTube channel that he had problems with aftermarket items and when he scoped them the magnets were poorly located within the trigger wheel and the car threw correlation faults.

When I rebuilt mine I just popped a new genuine item on using the tool and it started straight up and has never thrown any engine codes. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Yes the shop replaced a new and original trigger wheel and fitted it with the correct tool. I'm getting the same symptoms from my factory CPS where the engine cuts off immediately when revved along with CPS codes. The 1 month old sensor also throwing the codes as mentioned on the threads so I have no choice but to get another new CPS next week to see if it makes any difference. I have no access to an oscilloscope to monitor the trigger wheel signal. This is getting pretty frustrating

I'm at a bit of a loss on this, definitely the correct tool marked with Part No. 303-1237 & V8 on it?

Click image to enlarge

I'm just as puzzled with this one. It's the same scenario as my factory crankshaft sensor unable to run with the 2 degrees off timing new trigger wheel, but the replacement new CPS somehow works. No code, starts up right away, idles and drives fine (most of it). Now that the timing is back to it's intended position, both CPS doesn't work and are throwing codes. I'll be swapping out another new CPS this coming Monday to see if it helps. If not then likely it could the case of a faulty trigger wheel although it's original new. The whole seal refresh exercise has been rather time consuming by now

Me too!

I've just checked the WSM and it makes no mention of the engine being at TDC and I cetainly didn't time mine when I did it. I've just spokken to a JLR Master Tech who confirmed that, and he also said he's had cars recovered in to the workshop that have just stopped dead and it was always the CKP sensors being contaminated with oil from a RMS leak, even if they cleaned them up sometimes it was still an issue and so they used to replace them due to the labour involved. He also said if you've replaced the CKP sensor, you really need to use a genuine one as some of the cheaper ones are known to cause problems.

Hope this helps!! L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

The replacement CKP sensor is a bosch unit which worked previously. I got into this predicament because I replaced a new main seal so the sensors are dry without any oil contamination. They just stopped working. In a way I'm lucky to address this within a month so supplier is granting me warranty for the sensor. Some quick google searches suggest to relearn the sensors but there isn't such options on diagnostics for LR. Let's hope the new unit miraculously work and that'll be the end of my CKP/CPS drama.

I'm stumped, I'd go with a JLR CKP and ring and keep my fingers crossed! I don't recall the airgap for the CKP sensor being adjustable, but just check it isn't overly wide.

I've not seen any adaptation routine on either the GAP tool or SDD, so have no idea about that.

Keep the thread updated, I'll be interested to know the outcome! L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Swapped a new CKP sensor and all related codes are all gone. But I still have the initial P0088-17 problem I'm trying to solve. Sent my ECU to revert back to factory now to eliminate another possibility before moving on to testing other components,if ECU isn't one of it.

I assume you've tackled the TSB relating to the fuel pressure switch wiring loom/connector issue? L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.