Not yet but going there soon. I put that behind on the check list because on iid logs the sensor voltage and pressure read seems consistent everytime so in my opinion if wires were shorted I should be seeing inconsistencies when I'm driving. If there anywhere I can refer for sensor voltage v condition graph/values just to be certain?

I believe it's a degradation of the loom as opposed to an actual break or short condition. I'd look no further until completing the TSB and replacing the loom, 10 minute job and cheap as chips.

Do that and then reasses from there onwards.

Have a search of the forum, there's loads of people had it and has always been solved easily.

Also worth checking that you have the mod done for the oil level sensor to prevent oil tracking up the wiring towards the primary turbo actuator. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Oil level sensor and harness extension done. Bought the car with faulty oil sensor codes that's why first order is to drop the entire engine and transmission to replace all wear and tear items, where I am left with this weird code now. I'll check if anyone stocks the harness locally, if not will need to express it and hopefully that will solve the issue. The vehicle is drivable, infact in normal driving circumstances I'll never see the code but I'm just trying to avoid having 1 issue leading to another bigger problem like HPFP or injector damage if this continues. P0088-17 symptoms caused by harness I read in the forum are mainly on idle or low rpm signal interruption cause engine to stall. Mine only happens all the way up at high rpms. So I'm not sure, but worth the shot.

Update..

So based on the conversation with 4RRS I got the shop to order the wiring harness. But instead of the LR108438 they ordered LR112662 instead.

So the difference between the both:
LR108438 - bypass socket which directly tap into engine harness to fuel pressure sensor
LR112662 - factory replacement/socket to socket

The vehicle doesn't throw P0088-17 codes right after swapping out the harness. We did many test on multiple conditions which will trigger code from earlier and it has been pretty solid. The logs at 3.6k rpm/WOT used to show 220k kpa rail pressure. Now it's showing 212k kpa. Until the moment we think it's finally fixed the car suddenly throw a P0088-17 again. So that gets me thinking.. The wire is the correct fix, no questions about it. However since it throw a code 1 time, it does show there is still a weak link in the signal which I'm attributing it to the socket. I'm ordering LR108438 tomorrow to bypass the socket and hopefully results will be favourable.

My next question is, should i solder and heat shrink the wire? Or should I just crimp it as supplied by the repair kit?

What a saga, but it sounds that you are getting close to a final fix!
I'd always solder and use glue embeddded heatshrink. There is an argument that solder joints are brittle but if you use a lead based solder as opposed to lead free then it should be more than adequate and a lot neater if you splice the wires at differing lengths and then wrap in cloth tape for a factory finish. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Because solder is rigid, a soldered joint needs to have the wires supported for a little distance from the end of the solder where it runs back along the strands inside the sheath to prevent the strands from flexing at the end of the solder which would cause the strands to break.

Soldered the wires and same results. Although it is slightly better than before, I'm still getting P0088-17 about 2 out of 10 kick down pulls. There is definitely an underlying issues somewhere in the fuel system. Once I flashed the ecu back to the tuned file it got worse, I'm getting the code almost every pull up to 3.6k rpm. That got me thinking, what else could be contributing to high fuel rail pressure. The actual pressure stays relatively on point to the target pressure. It only jump out of tolerances at high rpm. Could I have a partially stuck open fuel metering valve? Car drives perfectly in every other conditions. I know it is unlikely to disrupt my daily driving but it's the obsession to get to the bottom of it that keeps me pursuing a faulty code free vehicle. Oh well, made an order for a new bosch fuel metering valve. I'll be swapping it somewhere later this month once work clears up. Hopefully it helps.

On the bright side, I've finally fixed the root cause of my L405 not able to drop into access mode. So at least there's a win for the week.