Afternoon All.

Can someone tell me what the voltage from the fuel senders should be? Fuel gauge is stuck on empty despite there being fuel in the car. I have looked on the diagnostics and it is showing 0.86V at fuel sensor eject and 4.99V at fuel sensor pump. Its a 2010 3.6 TDV8 L322.

Cheers.

It's a common issue, you'll find it well documented on here if you do a search. You can get by with a temporary variable resistor to mimic the output of the tank sender. The actual fix requires you to get inside the tank to repair the wiring. 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

eg https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic41061.html 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

Brill. Thank you MikeO.

On my 4.4 the engine would cut out without warning when it decided to protect the fuel pump from running dry.
Because careful until you get a tank reading

Thanks. Will do. It's off the road for the next week or so to get some jobs done and this one is on the list.

Afternoon All.

So I've been dealing with the above issue for a while now. Every few weeks, I perform a temporary fix of cleaning the black connector with some contact cleaner and then it works fine for a while.

I have been putting it off as dont really have any experience with electrics or crimping. I have ordered the splice connetors. I notice in the service bulletin it states that "The splice joint connector is specific to this repair and must be used and crimped using special tool 418-116A / YRWS00010." I have a basic crimping tool, will this do the job? Any tips on getting a decent connection crimping?

Cheers Jimmy

I used a basic crimping tool. You should have no issues. Make sure the wires are nice and clean. Use the right size crimp connector (should be a snug fit). Don't be tempted to 'double crimp'. Try to get it right first time. Nice and positive. Then a gentle tug on the wires afterwards to confirm they're crimped well.

And make sure the tank is nice and low in diesel. Makes life a lot less messy. 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

They're are lots of YouTube videos too. Worth a watch. 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

MikeO wrote:

I used a basic crimping tool. You should have no issues. Make sure the wires are nice and clean. Use the right size crimp connector (should be a snug fit). Don't be tempted to 'double crimp'. Try to get it right first time. Nice and positive. Then a gentle tug on the wires afterwards to confirm they're crimped well.

And make sure the tank is nice and low in diesel. Makes life a lot less messy.

Ah, my only concern would be whether or not you need a special tool for those special crimp connectors. Sorry, I didn't realise you meant could you use a normal crimping tool with those. I used normal crimp connectors and it worked just fine. 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

I do have some normal connectors too so could always use those. Will see what the official connectors look like when they arrive and make and decide.

Cheers