On my search for a 4.4TDV8 I have come across a couple that have had new turbos.

From what I have learnt it is a bit of a lottery with these turbos but what preventive maintenance could I do apart from regular oil changes to prolong their life? Get the engine about 3k revs relatively frequently so the secondary turbo gets used? Anything else?

It's very, very rare that these turbo's fail. Regular oil changes at 5-7k miles with the correct C1 oil takes care of the servicing side and not driving hard until the oil temps are high enough to perform optimaly (note that the coolant gets up to temp way before the oil and on cold days it may be 1/2 hour before oil is up to temp) Excercising the 2nd turbo won't do anything for the care of the actual turbo but may clear accumulated oil and prevent the smoke issue and keep the changover valve from sticking on pre MY12 cars. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I am in no way qualified to answer this from a technical perspective but my view which I follow,

Regular high quality oil and oil filter changes - 3 to 4000 miles but I know many see this as excessive.
Clean high quality air filters (I know turbos work on the exhaust side but my view is dirt into the combustion chamber could result in debris out)
Quality fuel plus a quality fuel additive (for same reason above), I uses miller's diesel max or Dipetane.
Coolant at correct mix/strength to ensure optimal cooling plus minimal corrosion.
Properly warming the engine before using higher revs - until properly warmed up i keep revs below 2000 and avoid sudden throttle inputs.
If I have pushed her just before ending my journey I allow a few minutes gentle running before switching off.
I also use ZX1 and have used this in every car for the last 30 years. I have never suffered a serious nechanical failure which I attribute to the way I care for my cars and what I put in them.

My son takes the mickey out of me as he thinks I should drive harder. I am mechanically sympathetic as I appreciate 12 year old running gear deserves a more gentle approach. This does not mean I don't stretch its legs as I am a spirited driver but I make sure it's fully warmed up and I am smooth with all inputs. I slow to a crawl over speed humps, avoid ruts and pot holes etc because why cause undue wear. 2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue Santorini black ivory leather

Thanks for the responses and good to know turbo failure is rare!

Sounds like good common sense in terms of looking after it.

I am very sympathetic to warming oil, in my old TVR cerbera I fitted a sump heater and an oil stat as on cold days the oil would still go via the cooler and take an age to warm up.

Does the preheater warm the engine coolant and circulate it round the block?

On the 4.4 TDV8 turbo failure is very rare.
Regular oil and filter changes (6months) and boot it above 2500rpm every journey once up to temperature to keep the second turbo working! Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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As mentioned above, oil / filter changes, and after a longer journey especially at higher speed, after stopping the car allow the engine to cool a little before switching off will help. Starting an engine and driving Italian style from cold will not be good for the engine

Yes, the pre heater just does the coolant… agree re all the comments above.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

No need to idle / let the engine cool before turning off as this is outdated practice from the days before water cooled turbos and synthetic oil. I don't subscribe to the notion the 2nd turbo needs regular excercise to keep it working either as you have to remember that every time you request large loads from the engine it's putting extra stress on the components which are now 13+ years old. Look into the topic of cracked inlet manifolds and how much they cost to replace and then see if you think applying 1.5 bar of boost to old plastic is a good idea everytime you go for a drive...... 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Confucius says... Never buy a car from a person who lives on top of a steep hill. Unless they have the patience to let the turbo's cool after driving home...

Even modern oils crack under high temperatures.

EDIT -> Just to say, I still like to idle my vehicles for a couple of minutes if they've been driven under load just prior to stopping. Just let's everything cool down, including exhaust valves, turbo;s, etc.

J 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
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Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Last edited by D3Jon on 11th Jan 2025 10:24am. Edited 1 time in total

Synthetic base stock's + watercooled turbo exhaust housings are the very reason turbo's don't fail like they used to ( I owned early turbo charged cars that did so it's not somthing I picked up down the pub ) I agree though it's unwise to buy a car that has been on a hill especialy if the first drive in the morning is up it 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Ah, just edited my post to explain reason I like to cool them down. Posts crossed in the ether!

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

To be honest I always idle for a few seconds before shutdown as well but it's just an unshakable habit from owning early turbo cars where it was an essential procedure. I remember seeing the turbo glowing red once after stopping an early 80's Saab at a service station on the motorway. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Does anyone here use any oil additive for added protection?

I have sworn by ZX1 since being persuaded to use by a Alfa Romeo tech i knew really well many decades ago. They used it in their racing engines (club level racing) religiously.

It's not cheap at £25 for a normal up to 2 literally engine or double this on the 4.4 tdv8. However I see it as a wise and good value investment to keep my engines healthy. 2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue Santorini black ivory leather

JLR specificaly advises against oil addatives. This is especialy true with DPF equipped cars where addatives may add to the ash load. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

It's funny, kinda, when it comes to turbo's and engine longevity in general, people recommend synthetic oils while their beloved (& outdated ) C1 oil - they think they ABSOLUTELY need - is not synthetic . The base stock of all C1 oils I've seen (search for the MSDS's) use hydrotreated heavy paraffinic, CAS number: 64742-54-7 and that's considered, by the experts, to be Group III oil, mineral oil.
Oh well...

Instead of idling after a high load run I usually (not saying this happens on a regular basis at all, actually..) turn the heater & fan up fully and open a window/roof to let the hot air out for the last 3 km or so.
I don't live on top of a hill  2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000