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Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > TDV8 3.6 FFRR Oil Change - How to

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andrewb

Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2

TDV8 3.6 FFRR Oil Change - How to

Wanted to do an interim oil and filter change myself before the next service - thought my write up might be of some use as I couldn't find via search.

Tools & stuff:
- 10 litres of Castrol "A1" 5W30 or similar
- LR Oil filter and 2 new sump plugs
- Socket set and a 32mm (big) socket for the oil filter cover
- BIG sump oil catcher (9.5 litres min.) - but it must have a large catchment area - see below!
- lashings of rags and old newspaper
- rubber gloves

Clearly this is only an account of my experience and you must follow your own particular safety and vehicle specs for the right procedure.

1. Take the car out for a spin to warm up to operating temperature.

2. Raise car to highest level, put in park, handbrake on and turn off engine (key out)

3. Spread LOADS of newspaper on the floor under the engine and have rags to hand

4. Remove the engine cover (it just pops out of its 4xsecuring lugs - pictured - tug up at the front then at the back, then slide out cover)

Click image to enlarge

5. Remove underside engine cover - 6 bolts - 3 front, 3 rear
Bolt areas circled... the front end of the cover (foreground) will tilt downwards and hinge at the back - just wiggle it out.

Click image to enlarge

6. Unscrew oil filter cover until loose - let it drain for a few minutes. Then lift it up a bit (you'll hear more gurgles) leave it drain a little more. Then take cover and filter out (LOTS of rags and kitchen roll to hand - the filter is full of oil.) clean off any spills and clean up the filter.

Click image to enlarge

- Insert new filter - watch where the protruding 'bit' locates.
- Replace O-ring on filter cover (smearing with a little new oil)
- Screw filter cover back on carefully and tighten to 35Nm

7. Draining oil.
The issue here is that the sump drain holes are positioned in such a way that the oil flow is interrupted by the chassis - thus creating huge opportunity for oil to spurt out in all directions. Great design LR!
So the risk of mess and oil up your arms is high. be careful and think ahead. Think about where the oil willl flow.
Move to under the car. Newspaper in place and rags to hand.
Locate both sump plugs (labelled 1 and 2 in the diagram):

Click image to enlarge

Direction of plug and flow in red arrows.
Imagine looking down onto the car from above... Plug 1 is at the front, right hand side of the sump, nearest the ground - the drain hole points RIGHT
Plug 2 (clearer in the picture) is rearward of plug 1 - at least pointing to the ground, BUT you'll see the chassis / subframe directly in its flow path! great. For this reason i drained plug 1 until no drips. Then did plug 2 (not much oil came from plug 2, so easier to deal with).

Draining....
- Undo sump plug 1 a little until finger tight.
- Position your large oil catcher underneath.
- Undo the plug bit by bit, holding it in until the last point then pull it out (keeping it in your hand if poss)
At this point, oil will spurt enthusiastically from the drain hole. Reposition catcher, newspaper, rags to minimise spill.
Let it drain until empty.
Clean the area around the drain hole and insert & tighten new plug (ideally to 23Nm)
Mop up spills and other mess.

Do the same for plug 2 - mercifully (particularly with the fiddly access of p2), less oil will come out.

Clean up, double-check you've replaced the plugs and set fresh paper underneath.

Messy bit done.

Then fill up with new oil. Access to the filler spout is awkward (especially with a full can). - So use a funnel or similar. I used a 1L oil can with the bottom chopped out. (pic).

Click image to enlarge

Put about 8 litres in then allow it to settle (check dipstick). Then top up carefully so its at the top of the dipstick indicator.

Start engine - watch until the oil light extinguishes then raise revs to about 1500rpm for 20secs or so to let things soak in.

Stop engine and re-check dipstick, you'll probably have to top up another 500ml to 1L to get to mid point.

Test drive and re-check level.

Hope this helps.

If anyone has a proven solution for the spillage problem I'd love to know!

Happy cleanup!

21st Jun 2010 2:51pm

Joe90

Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6408

Additionals!

Some additional information and images to add to andrewb's excellent tutorial on the oil change for a 3.6 TDV8

Apart from setting Offroad, I also drove the car up on 4" oak ramps (part of my ACME ramp set) for a bit of extra working space

Sometimes it helps a first time oil changer to know what they are looking for, and to get their bearings underneath...

If you are looking for the "main" oil drain plug:

You will find it here. This photo is from behind the front right wheel, facing the front of the car. The sump is flat at the bottom and has a criss-cross pattern on it

A close up of the "main" oil drain plug

Now for the second drain plug (more of which later)

Looking from the front of the car towards the rear, you will find it above the rear of the engine subframe

Now, in answer to Andrew's question about how to avoid oil spillage and splattering, I used a couple of "tools" to significantly reduce the possibility of oil going everywhere, given the placement of the oil drain plugs.

DO THE MAIN DRAIN PLUG FIRST

I dug through my bits and bobs bin and found a heater air hose from an MGB (the one from the heater to the demister). Having released the drain plug and turning it by hand, once it came out I held the hose up against the drain hole, and the oil dutifully poured through the hose into my washing up bowl (second bowl at the ready). The only oil spillage was over my hands (with rubber gloves) at the moment between the plug coming out and pushing the hose over the hole. Hold the hose in place until you are down to a trickle, then you can remove the hose and allow the remaining oil to drop straight to the bowl.

Any similar hose will do, if of a large enough diameter, the drain plug could be released into it, to be retrieved later from the washing up bowl! I also later had a thought that a coke bottle (other brands are available) might also do the same job if cut like this:

Click image to enlarge

Now for the rear drain plug. I cut the end off a coke bottle, then cut the side off the end to make a shallow flexible gutter. This was then pushed up to under the drain plug (once untightened)

I was then able to undo the drain plug and allow the flow of oil to run down into the bottle and then into the washing up bowl.

Now then, Andrew indicated he only got @ 1/2 a litre from the 2nd drain hole, for me I only got @ 1/8 litre. This begs the question whether it is at all worthwhile draining this second plug at all ? Up to you...

I measured out the oil I drained (having left the main drain plug to drip for over an hour) I got 9.25 litres out (my dipstick was reading between middle and top), so that is what I put back in, and after running the engine following refill, and leaving overnight, dipstick read the same as before.

The approach I took resulted in all the oil going into my receptacles (washing up bowls) and not over me or the drive. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember

Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

4th Aug 2018 7:37pm

rar110

Member Since: 09 Aug 2014
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1119

2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Atacama Sand

Today I did my first oil/filter change on the 3.6 tdv8. It’s normally done by my local Indy at least for last 4 years since I’ve owned it.

The previous owner also used an Indy for about 130,000km. The previous Indy and lately my Indy use an oil flush. Today I used a different oil flush. And the dipstick is now much cleaner. But will see how it goes for a couple of thousand km. Normally the oil’s dirty within about 30km.

I used a oil vacuum through the dipstick. But the tube was a little too short, so decided to drain remainder from both sump plugs. What a PITA. The rear sump
Plug was a real PITA to remove with the chassis cross member right under it. I managed to drain about 9.5 lt of oil, incl about 0.5lt after removing the sump plugs.

It was a learning experience. Next time will be on ramps. Thanks for this thread. Very useful. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

11th Nov 2018 10:53am

GraemeS

Member Since: 06 Mar 2015
Location: Wagga area
Posts: 2475

2012 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Bournville

I never get under a vehicle with air suspension without axle stands or at least first disabling the air suspension by removing the 20A air suspension fuse (L322 MY07+, all D3/D4/RRS). The 20A fuse supplies the power to operate the valves so with this removed, at least the suspension system can't decide to lower.

11th Nov 2018 11:16am

rar110

Member Since: 09 Aug 2014
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1119

Good point. Another reason for ramps so the car is at least 300mm off the deck. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

11th Nov 2018 12:05pm

Rapiscan

Member Since: 28 Apr 2018
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 182

2007 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Santorini Black

Hi,I've changed the oil on my 3.6 Tdv8 several times and am always surprised how little oil ( half a coffee mugs worth) drops out....so why is this,is the oil in there in a different compartment to the main sump and what exactly is the point of that rearmost sump plug? 2008 L322 Vogue 3.6 TDV8 in Java Black with parchment and Navy interior. 125000mls.

I used to be indecisive and have a split personality... but we are ok now...I think?

11th Nov 2018 4:23pm

GraemeS

Member Since: 06 Mar 2015
Location: Wagga area
Posts: 2475

The rear-most plug drains the small turbo return drain line reservoir.. If not drained then sludge will build-up eventually blocking the turbo drain return lines causing oil to backup to the turbos and escaping via the turbo seals.

11th Nov 2018 7:42pm

Rapiscan

Member Since: 28 Apr 2018
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 182

Ah thanks for the explanation.Ive never bothered with using flushing oil first,is there any merit in doing so? 2008 L322 Vogue 3.6 TDV8 in Java Black with parchment and Navy interior. 125000mls.

I used to be indecisive and have a split personality... but we are ok now...I think?

11th Nov 2018 9:34pm

rar110

Member Since: 09 Aug 2014
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1119

I personally think oil flush is worth the expense (small in comparison with turbo replacement and engine rebuild) and effort.

Oil feed and drain is a possible issue for the 3.6 turbos. This issue also possibly relates to servicing history.

In any case, I have picked a L322 with a good 10,000km service history. As a bonus my L322 3.6 did have frequent use of oil flushes.

I have also adopted other strategies to preserve this motor.

In summary, my personal opinion is 10,000km or 6,200 mile oil changes with oil flushes is a worth while investment. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

12th Nov 2018 11:39am

Rapiscan

Member Since: 28 Apr 2018
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 182

So what's the oil flushing procedure please?
Does it need 9 litres of flushing oil adding to a drained engine?What about the existing old oil filter,just left in place? How long do I run the engine with the flushing oil in situ? Thanks. 2008 L322 Vogue 3.6 TDV8 in Java Black with parchment and Navy interior. 125000mls.

I used to be indecisive and have a split personality... but we are ok now...I think?

12th Nov 2018 2:40pm

Rapiscan

Member Since: 28 Apr 2018
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 182

I always drop the oil every 6000 MLS,an hour of a job costing around £60-70,like you say small price to pay v turbos etc etc. 2008 L322 Vogue 3.6 TDV8 in Java Black with parchment and Navy interior. 125000mls.

I used to be indecisive and have a split personality... but we are ok now...I think?

12th Nov 2018 2:42pm

rar110

Member Since: 09 Aug 2014
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1119

The procedure is to add the flush treatment to the engine oil when an oil change is due and run the motor on a fast idle (I kept it at about 1500 rpm) for 30 minutes. Then a normal oil and filter change (drain the oil, replace the oil filter, refill with new oil). ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

12th Nov 2018 7:19pm

umitbat

Member Since: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Space
Posts: 433

Re: Additionals!

Unnecessary quote removed

Great info thanks.
Can I drain 2nd drain hole after changing oil.
The mechanic did not drain it and filled oil already. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

2nd Aug 2020 11:51am

Joe90

Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6408

Quote:
Can I drain 2nd drain hole after changing oil.

I do not think so. You will have to wait until the next oil change. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember

Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

2nd Aug 2020 3:12pm

umitbat

Member Since: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Space
Posts: 433

Oops 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

2nd Aug 2020 3:30pm

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