Eye watering quote for the work from Land Rover, but I fancy attempting the work myself with a mate.

Land Rover says its all corroded and has evidence of water in the system. I can see all the cheap pipework is corroded so have ordered everything front to back. But I don't plan to replace the Roll bars, pumps or valve levelling components.

From looking underneath its likely I need to remove exhaust and fuel tank which looks easy enough but do we need to also remove the rear subframe which would be awkward / time consuming?

Before we start I will flush the system to clear the water - I know its likely that a small amount will remain but I am saving £7K on parts and labour!

any advice/pictures/links of similar jobs would be appreciated

Rear subframe needs removing to replace rear pipework

wow never realised this was such a big and pricey job

Take a look at these videos...





 Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Those videos are making my OCD twitch

They're making my wallet throb!

Mike

So glad I have the TDV6 without this feature.
If it’s not there, it can’t fail.
The complete lack of JLR’s attention to underbody corrosion prevention is incredulous in this day and age.  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

The fatter one is me (Sam) Glad you found the video's - we decided to record the work to help anyone else out. We would certainly do it again and found many short cuts along the way should you want some advice?

Was an epic amount of work if you are attempting this with no knowledge of how the car is layed out. The manuals we found online were a help.

Land Rover were obviously trying to escape doing the job or just replace everything as they like clean parts...

I'm intrigued as to how you removed the rear prop at the diff end. We didn't see that bit

Not a huge issue at my end, as we've the correct special tools to remove and refit, but its not something for the amatuer/DIY mechanic

One of us is slightly more than DIY (not me obviously).

We had the appropriate 'special tool'. The socket is not that uncommon.

My car has this leak from the corroded pipes just above the left rear silencer. It started as a small drip and now it’s much worse. If I simply leave it and the active system ceases to work, will it do any damage further down the line? The V6 doesn’t have the active system so I guess the car will handle differently but I guess I would have to live with that. Any suggestions.

Mine's just been returned after having the front pipes replaced.

Apart from the mess the leak makes, if air gets into the system, you start to get clunking noises when the steering is turned.

My corrosion was at the front offside clamp for the pipes.

Steel pipes, salty roads? C'mon Land Rover!

Mike

wealy wrote:

My car has this leak from the corroded pipes just above the left rear silencer. It started as a small drip and now it’s much worse. If I simply leave it and the active system ceases to work, will it do any damage further down the line? The V6 doesn’t have the active system so I guess the car will handle differently but I guess I would have to live with that. Any suggestions.

mpirie wrote:

Mine's just been returned after having the front pipes replaced.

Apart from the mess the leak makes, if air gets into the system, you start to get clunking noises when the steering is turned.

My corrosion was at the front offside clamp for the pipes.

Steel pipes, salty roads? C'mon Land Rover!

Mike

knwatkins wrote:

If you loose all of your fluid and continue to drive it, the pump will quickly burn out, that's for sure. You'll also have various warning lights and messages permanently displayed on the dash. My recommendation would be to fix it.