im still struggling with my 2003 td6 rr suspension
fitted a new compressor and found the air leak to be a split pipe on the reservoir pipe to valve block .
Yes you can remove the collets ,reuse on a piece of new 6 mm pipe .
Im still having problems as the rear lifts ok but the front wont .
By powering the valve block i can get the fronts to raise and they stay up over 2 days no problem .
Tomorrow im going to check the continuity from the ecu connector to the valve block via the motors wiring harness to rule out rat ,squirrel damage .
I have another ecu to try but the real question i would like answered is as follows
the height sensors have three wires ,ok with xenon headlight some hve 6 , however am i correct in assuming that of the 3 wires one would be earth ,supplied by the ecu ,the next would be a 12v supply and the third would be the feed back to the ecu? accordingly would all the 12v feed in be equal i.e. about 12 v ? also if they are "permanent" 12 v cn i check the ecu earth by reading the power feed to a good known earth ?
now when i check the actual "offsets" the fronts o each other are miles out and similarly with the rears ?
Any help appreciated

i'm having a very similar issue with mine and to answer your question from my investigations your assumptions are correct but i understood the supply was 5 volts not 12.

my sensor on the drivers side is six wire and all the others are three but from memory you only need pins 1, 4 & 5

hope this helps in some way

"and they stay up over 2 days no problem"

then what happens ?

What do you see when you read the codes...? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
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many thanks for the reply ,it stays on high if and only if i use the rsw softeare to "depressurise " ,the backs lower and the front rise . I then stop the software and it will sit on high no problem. There are no fault codes logged but the high led remains on even if i depressurise it all around .
I thought i might have a wiring problem so i got the ecu out disconnected the plug and carefully dismantled it so i could clearly see the pin numbers . Read the resistances and they are very similar i.e. front left solenoid to right solenoid . I even connected a 12 supply and i clearly can hear the solenoids "clunk " when i energise them .
Ive had the valve block off the vehicle ,cleaned and refitted it then i used plugs off another unit . Using a compressor and some 6 mm and 8 mm pipe,i connected my compressor to the valve inlet . I pressurised this up then use a 12 v supply to open the reservoir and let it fill . |Thats the way i found my split pipe which burnt out the original compressor due to over work . using my independent 12 v supply i can open the rear valves ,one at a time and i can get them to lift and hold pressure over night nno problem . The same with the front ,i can power them individually and they will lift and hold pressure and height overnight providing i leave the valve block electrically disconnected .
So i know that the actual hardware ,solenoids are capable of working . Ive changed the headlight levelling ecu and subsituted a good air suspension ecu from my other l 322 who's suspension works great .
So im now a bit stuck so to speak .
As i said thank you for replying

Discofish wrote:

i'm having a very similar issue with mine and to answer your question from my investigations your assumptions are correct but i understood the supply was 5 volts not 12.

my sensor on the drivers side is six wire and all the others are three but from memory you only need pins 1, 4 & 5

hope this helps in some way

Typical... just to make it more complicated they have to bring headlights into the mix

On my diagnostics it's saying that my issue is with my front left height sensor, but so far I've checked wiring, replaced the sensor and the reading off that corner still says -100 where every other is + 400 or there about's and change when the car moves.

was thinking about a replacement ECU (annoying as the suspension worked perfectly before it went for MOT although to be fair they did try to rectify it as they admitted they may have fiddled with wiring when they did a brake pipe)

Sounds a bit like we are both in the same boat ……I’ve got suspension ecu issues as well (won’t calibrate) and suspension dropping still not got any fixes from here yet

Discofish wrote:

Typical... just to make it more complicated they have to bring headlights into the mix

On my diagnostics it's saying that my issue is with my front left height sensor, but so far I've checked wiring, replaced the sensor and the reading off that corner still says -100 where every other is + 400 or there about's and change when the car moves.

was thinking about a replacement ECU (annoying as the suspension worked perfectly before it went for MOT although to be fair they did try to rectify it as they admitted they may have fiddled with wiring when they did a brake pipe)

when it left the MOT place it was flipped unbeknown to me however when it was put right the front pumped up beyond off road and burst both front bags and its not worked since reliably.

thinking about it now I'm wondering if the sensor could have been damaged by being used in the flipped position?

although to add insult to injury this morning I've now got the battery warning light flashing on & off and what appears to be a bearing on it's last legs sound (which I thought was possibly a tensioner) so may be the alternator is dying (knowing how power hungry these are and errors flagging up for that reason, could they be linked issues?)

hi
when you say you got the ecu out do you the suspension ecu ? ,is this the one passengers side foot well by any chance ?
thanks will

that's the one (although a bit tight for space if i remember when i looked at mine)

I've got an issue with mine so got a second hand one which im going to flash it with the gap tool and hoping that sorts out my problem