I think its time to share information about rebuilding vacuum oil pump on 4,4TDV8.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic40047-180.html
I have drove at the moment almost 9000km with this modification, since that still no more smoke screen, no oil consumption and no any other negative consequence.
But still, all work at your own risk!
So, we know the reason is uneffective oil drain system. Most of time the system working properly, but sometime the oil pump are not able to rise the oil from the oil sump when couple factors coworking together: 1) low engine/pump RPM, 2) pump gets air, 3) positive air pressure after and negative before pump (working against pumping direction).
To avoid it we need to eliminate one of this factors. Wich one? Rise RPM? Not possible. With the pressure difference we also cant do much. But what about moments when the pump remains dry? What if we try to do something so pump never remains dry anymore? But how? Easy.
Luckly, the pump construction promotes that. Inside the pump, exactly under the oil intake chamber we have separate oil channel. This channel is connected with engine main lubrication system and its made for lubricating pump own shaft. There is oil pressure always when the engine is running. So what we can do? Of course, drill additional small channel between oil intake chamber and lubrication channel. This will provide a small oil injection inside the oil pump intake chamber and avoid the pump ever remains dry.
Pump get always littlebit oil = pump not remains dry = pump are able to rise the oil from sump ALWAYS.
Here the steps how to do it (I do it like that):
1) Disassemble scavange pump.
2) Clean it before opening.
3) Open the oil side (not the vacuum side), be careful with gasket.
4) Next you need to make drilling work. If you are not sure you can do it by yourself, take it to some workshop and ask to drill according photos below.
You need to drill the channel in three stage:
first, pre-drilling work, vertical channel, drill diameter 3mm, drilling 1-2mm deep only. Its not nacessary to do it, but it makes main channel drilling easyer.
Next, need to use small rod file to cut the thin wall between new hole and intake chamber. This will provide better oil flow direct to intake chamber. This will also avoid broking of thin wall during running in future and cause any damage.
Now, main channel drilling. Use 1,5mm drill. You need to understand exactly oil channel location and try to aim exactly there. Luckly, the diameter of oil channel is quite big and you have a little error tolerance as well.
5) Finaly need to increase the diameter of oil intake filter. Use again 1,5mm drill, do it carrefuly, dont broke the filter mesh.
6) Done. Put all together and install the pump back to the car. Now, in case if your smoke screen was caused by uneffective turbo drain system (most likely it was), your issue is fixed, drain system and scavange pump will work always and keep the oil sump empty.
However, if the smoke screen was caused by weak turbocharger, oil separator, oil filter valve or some other fault, this procedure will not help and you need to find real problem.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Nice modification - have you checked the brake booster for oil ingress?

Brave man and well done.
In your summary one of the things you highlighted was the 'oil filter valve'. Mine started smoking more or less after an oil change. I changed the filter again and found this item had come off it's locating post and was loose under the filter.

Since changing the filter, and presuming it might have stayed in place this time, there is no more smoke or oil consumption.
Do you think this could have been the reason for all my woes?
I presumed it was for draining the filter once the filter had been unwound.
Have you any idea of it's purpose?
Thanks Kev.

Yes, this valve inside oil filter vessel quite often may be loose, just unclickt from sitting position. Each oil change need to pay attention to this valve. If oil drain channel is not close properly, lot of oil will pass into the oil separator during engine running. Separator can not separate so much oil and signifficant amount of oil may pass into the intake system.
Yes, this valve is made only for draining oil from filter vessel during filter change. Its possible to close this channel machanicaly and eliminate the problem this way. Well, in this case only negative effect you have is oil leak when you open the filter cup. I also thinking about this mod, but still didnt realise, just ensure each oil change so valve is sitting properly.

Phoenix: its not nacessary to check it, some small amount of oil must anyway pass into the vacuum side. It must be there, vacuum pump also must be lubricated, in other case it will get stuck and damage itself.

Click image to enlarge

And this is the oil channel Iam talking about, its made for pump shaft and vacuum side lubrication. There is a regular engine oil pressure when engine is running.

Well I think this is the only explanation there is as to why all of a sudden it was smokey and using oil and after I reattached it tightly by bending the tangs and using a small socket to tap it into place it no longer does it.
It's like a Eureka moment!!
It was using 1/2 litre of oil every few hundred miles and it now uses nothing.
I feel very happy that this must be what was happening and that nagging feeling that something was seriously wrong has been dispelled.
Thankyou.

jaguar3 wrote:

Click image to enlarge

Yes Rob, correct, it was in wrong position. This picture was done immidietly after removing oil filter at my first oil change. Its unknow was it in wrong place all the time or it was moving away during filter removing. Exactly the same case as kevinp explain.

2 different oil filter designs - does this interfere with the function of the spring plate sealing the hole?

Often wondered about that JayGee. Genuine one looks like it might not 'grab' on the spring valve and distort it, if that's what happening.

My thought is that the extended section may prevent the main body diameter from pressing down on the spring assembly? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic68232.html Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Pulled the oil release spring and cap just now and the rubber on the cap was very hard so replaced it with an M5 short cap head screw and some PTFE tape to seal it. 5mm is just enough to cut it's way into the alloy housing for a secure fit. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Half year with vacuum pump mod.
All working great, no smoke.