Hi, new to the L322 world as prices plummet and costs soar.

I've bought a nice Westminster with a stuck actuator on the big turbo. Codes below.

I understand the turbo actuators cycle through their range of movement when ignition is turned on.

Has anyone successfully unstuck the actuator on turbo B, the secondary one which is left side of engine as you sit in the car?

If so, how did you do it?

There are no other engine fault codes showing. I've visually checked the 4 donut inlet pipes and all look good. I haven't yet had a close look at the condition of the vacuum pipes.

Thanks for any guidance.

PCM-Engine TDV8 4.4L

P004D-77 - Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid B - circuit high - Mechanical failure - commanded position is not reachable (2B)
( on 17-09-2023 19:20:41 at 164690 km )

P004B-71 - Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid B - circuit range/performance - Mechanical failure - actuator is stuck (2A)
( on 17-09-2023 19:20:41 at 164690 km )

I just had exactly the same issue with my 2012 L322 4.4TDV8. A so called specialist who turned out to be total idiots told me the turbo had to be removed and I was looking at a bill in the £000’s.

I took my car to a proper specialist who fitted a new actuator for an all in price of £380. Not sure I would bother trying to free up which would likely be a temp fix when replacement is reasonable. 2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue Santorini black ivory leather

Pull it off and try soaking in marvel mystery oil. I can’t tell you what’s in it - it’s a mystery!

Is that anything like snake oil?  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

No snakes are harmed. 😜
I imagine it’s something like atf and acetone? I’ve seen seized engines freed up with MMO.

Whilst on a TD6 ours was whistling alot, actuator stuck not moving, my local guy said everytime he gets a whistling turbo he puts this through it first before he starts thinking about a rebuilt turbo and he runs a TDV8.

https://powermaxed.com/product/diesel-turbo-cleaner/

Your supposed to use the cleaner first then the second can on the hot side of the turbo but he told me to just run the cleaner through whilst running much like an EGR cleaner short sharp squirts.

Did the trick on mine. Just my opinion!

I had this exact problem not long after I bought my RR and having discovered that the LH turbo is an absolute pain to get at, here’s what I did to free it :

Jacked the car up and rested it on axle stands, located the actuator lever using a flexible camera, cut a piece of suitable length brake pipe, inserted the nozzle straw of a tin of penetrating fluid into the brake pipe and used duck tape to create a seal and a long reach nozzle which allowed me to soak the actuator lever joints with penetrating fluid using my flexi camera to see where I was spraying. I left it to soak for a couple of hours then used a long 3/8 socket extension bar to put pressure against the actuator lever ball joint until it came free and used another piece of brake pipe with a hooked end to pull it back. After manipulating it forward and back manually several times I switched the ignition on and ensured that it was cycling freely, doing this several times to allow the penetrating fluid to get properly into the ball joint. I again soaked it in penetrating fluid and as it’s easy to get at, did the same to the RH turbo actuator lever as a preventative measure.

That was almost two years ago and they still move freely. Hope this helps. Current collection :

2007 Vogue TDV8 Stornoway grey, black on black
1982 JCB Sitemaster (resto)
1970 MGB
BMW R1200GS