About to book my '06 Vogue SE TDV8 (3.6) in for Dinitrol rust treatment and preventatine coating, apparently they drop the subfames to do them all over and get to the underbody, takes 3 days as they have to let the rust converter cure the apply the protective coat. Cost about 1k. Anybody on here had it done? Any good?

I have had my 2009 /59 reg since 2012 and have always used Lanoguard and it’s still mint

I had my 2011 4.4 tdV8 treated at a Dinitrol centre 7 years ago , but it definitely didn’t involve lowering the rear subframe in any way.
All the plastic under covers, wheel arch liners and cills were removed, the whole lot steam cleaned and then treated.
Every year the MOT men mention how good it is underneath, and I certainly recommend getting any car you intend to keep long term treated with Dinitrol.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Dinitrol is good stuff, if you want to check what goes where (they may charge extra for application of RC 900) then spend £20 on the spray diagram https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product/veh...ay-diagram

Lower the subframes? They are pulling a fast one on you!
I'm a Lanoguard convert. Much easier to apply (albeit annually) but takes a fraction of the time of other stuff. Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Got it totally wrong about lowering the subframes DOH, on Discos and L320's at the place I'm taking mine they take body off, clean off the lose rust and the use the rust converter, when that's dry they coat with Dinitrol. On the L322 they remove the under body panels and treat it as above. While its in I'm getting diff and transfer case oils changed and a gearbox flush and oil change plus a couple other jobs that need doing. Vacuum pump seal, rear discs & pads and handbrake adjusters, OSF bottom arm, dunno which one as the previous garage did not specify. Hopefully that keep it sorted for a bit!

I have moved over to Dynax from bilt hamber as I find it much easier to apply than lanolin based products as it doesn’t run it also longer lasting.

My experience with Lanoguard was underwhelming I found it had almost gone after 6-8 months in some areas compared to Dynax which is holding strong way past 12 months.

You can beat a proper dintrol IMO but it’s allot of work.

https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-uc/

I’ve just done the transporter in it a mix of brown and clear and it looks OEM:

TJH1985 wrote:

I have moved over to Dynax from bilt hamber as I find it much easier to apply than lanolin based products as it doesn’t run it also longer lasting.

My experience with Lanoguard was underwhelming I found it had almost gone after 6-8 months in some areas compared to Dynax which is holding strong way past 12 months.

Everything I’ve used lanaguard on has worked brilliantly! 👍

That’s some good info, I hadn’t even considered what it was beyond a wax I use the UB on anything that is dark and the UC on everything else purely from a cosmetic standpoint.

I buy it in 5L and use one of these: https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/563719852...jector-kit which I wish I had brought years ago as it makes life so much easier!

Not as good as dintrol, but I don’t mind topping it up annually it’s that easy. Sold - Bell a 2015 MY16 Loire Blue Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previously George a 2007 MY07 Java Black VSE 3.6 TDV8
Previously a 04 MY04 Defender 90