@JayGee, What article in the MOT test regulations state you can't replace a hard line with braided? I'm curious. I realise you're a very knowledgable man when it comes to L322's, but I have put many, many cars through MOT's with many, many modifications, tweaks, and changes to standard spec and never had a problem, even with (over)zealous testers.

@ennoch - no idea if it’s an MOT fail but just worth checking before you do it is all I’m saying
One thing I do know is that you would need to ensure the lines were properly supported and secured along their length to ensure vehicle movement doesn’t cause rubbing and possible abrasion to the lines. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

No worries @JayGee, I thought I was missing something on the MOT test. There's nothing in there they could fail on unless they're not secured correctly. And yes, they definitely need to be secured otherwise the clear heat shrink coating will wear through to the stainless braid which then acts like a cheesegrater, ironically more to the surrounding body and parts than the lines themselves. Rivnuts and p-clips or lots of zip ties will see it good. As long as you stop bits of it flapping about it will be fine as the hardline is only ever going to be used in a non-moving location. Is it the 'best' option if you're trying to keep factory/OEM? Absolutely not. If you could use hard line then I would. But for situations like the up and over the tank section I think it's a valid option to consider, especially as alternative routing for a new section of kunifer could easily introduce its own issues.

I replaced my rears pipes with kunifer and if i remember correctly, I did it 2 sections. The first along the sill line run front to back, and the second sections going up and over the subframe to the flex pipes. That way I could manage the pipe lengths and the bends they would have had to do. You could see the pipe run across the top and i dont recall it being that hard to get the old one out and the new pipe slid in to run across. The garage that did the next MOT even commented it was decent enough that I could get a job with them doing it.

I would be a fan of a longer single run of flex hose where it leaves the chassis and runs down the arm to the caliper. V8 or else ...

Just to add to this, I thought I'd ping a mate of mine who is a tester and see what he said in case I was talking out my proverbial. As long as it's fully secured and not at risk of damaging anything or being damaged, there is no issue with using flexi for the brake line in places where it wasn't originally used. Hope that helps anyone considering this.

@Ennoch
Remember to take some pics of the procedure if you can as this could be a useful addition to the WiKi 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Hi you do not need to drop the rear end to fit original brake lines as you can carefully feed the new pipe across the axle it’s a bit of a faff but is doable as I have done both of mine from front to back and if the person has a lift even better because the brake line that crosses the axle is very long but as I say it’s not an extremely hard job to do and it looks so much better with all the genuine bends