Afternoon all,

Just trying to head off some major expense next year as when presented for MOT the other day mine failed on a couple of silly things but the tester highlighted corrosion on the front and rear sub frames and rear lower wish bones (they are only advisory at this point as not effecting structural rigidity)

so...despite liberal coatings of lanoguard every year the tin worn has found a way in what do you all recommend to try and rectify this (I'm thinking a good brush down to get the worst off then some sort of rust convertor then.... (over to you))

Cheers

I used to work in the offshore oil and gas industry, the standard rust converter / metal protection was 'aquasteel'. It's absolutely amazing, it turns rusty steel into a protected glass like coated item.

https://aquasteel.co.uk/ BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

Neutrarust-661 seems to do a similar job too.
Easy to apply but don't get any of it on you.


I've read elsewhere of threads and positive feedback using Neutrarust+Lanoguard and also the use of POR-15.

Thanks for the recommendations both, will have a look at them and then when the truck comes back I'll be lying in the gutter scraping and painting

I can vouch for Aquasteel too. I had advisories for the same areas previous year, then last year I wire brushed them down and used Aquasteel. No advisories for corrosion this years MoT.

another alternative to throw into the mix - KBS coatings; RustSeal.

KBS do lots of special use paints. They are from the US. There are UK resellers online..

I've recently bought some KBS VHT primer and paint from them. It arrvied last night by courier.

Its for my exhaust (refurbing a replacement for my missing OEM back box).
The replacement BB was heavily rusted/paint peeling off. Have prepped it with a cup brush/drill combo and intend to prime/paint over the next few days if the ambient temp drops a bit.


https://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/kbs-three-step-system.html

I have 20+ years in the O&G offshore industry and I will only use Aqua Steel as a rust converter.

Jim

bradww wrote:

Neutrarust-661 seems to do a similar job too.
Easy to apply but don't get any of it on you.


I've read elsewhere of threads and positive feedback using Neutrarust+Lanoguard and also the use of POR-15.

MOD approval could easily mean it's the cheapest option..... 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I see the aquasteel can be painted over (or not). If you choose to do so what would you paint it with?. visiting from www.rrsport.co.uk

Anything you want, may garden gates I did Aquasteel followed by Black Hammerite Smooth. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

No one has mentioned Hydrate 80, the rust treatment I and several others on this forum use.

I have done a bit of research and looked at all the marketing bumf of the converters mentioned in this post.
"complex organic iron compound by the unique deoxygenating agent" is typical claim by all of them, so without any scientific basis I suspect that they may well be the same or very very similar chemicals.

Had I not already used Hydrate 80 I would choose between them based on price as I see little if any difference between them from the marketing material and the technical data published on their websites.

The one thing I have noticed is that they differ from the old rust converters by not being washed off.

David Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

If they convert it to black then it's pretty much all based on phosphoric acid, it's the other stuff that's what makes it more or less durable as a final surface.

I've used Hydrate 80 and it is good stuff but I don't subscribe to their suggestion that it doesn't need over coated. Personally, having done a ton of work on my impreza, I get it back to bright metal as much as possible whether that's with a convertor gel or sanding it back first. I then put on a layer of the H80 once I've got it back to as much good metal as possible. Yes it converts rust to an inert substance but only the surface. Some people make the mistake of putting it over loose stuff and that just lets the rust creep back underneath. Depending on the area I will then sometimes sand the surface again so that the H80 only remains in the pitting, and then top coat with an epoxy primer, followed by a top coat (epoxy isn't UV stable). Everyone seems to have a different way of doing things but the key one is mechanically or chemically removing the rust rather than converting it. If you can remove the parts and soak them in a citric acid bath then do so, especially if you can keep the solution warm with a fish tank heater. If you want a cheap paste to put on as a convertor gel then wallpaper paste and citric acid crystals with a little water to make a decent consistency is basically all that BH Deox Gel is.

I dont know the tech side of Aquasteel I can only vouch for it from my experience. Offshore in the oil and gas industry conditions are horrendous for steel, it rusts heavily in a very short time. A treatment of Aquasteel stopped the corrosion and gave a good surface finish that could be left or painted over if a different colour was needed. The protection lasted for years literally. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6