So I had my very first experience doing proper towing today. I have a 750kg trailer that I’ve used a fair bit over the years and that’s no bother at all. However, today was my first proper tow where a B+E was required, and now I am legal thanks to recent change in legislation.

Here was the rig:

The farmers hitch was an annoying sod for vibration when the cars were new. We’ve still got one we removed from our nearly new 2007 VSE back in the day. The removable one is much much better but does still rattle ever so slightly in comparison.

Whatever hitch you’re using though, you’ll always get vibrations and harshness through the car when towing an unladen trailer as they bounce on bumps. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

The anti rattle clamp silenced our’s when we had one it was done up quite tight though! I also wouldn’t have described it as a rattle, but more a knock every now and again when going over dips in the road that caused the trailer to unweight a little. You could recreate the sound by hand by lifting and dropping the tow bar. Absolutely no vibrations back through the tow bar though and other than the knock every now and again it was silent / undetectable to the point you could easily forget you were towing!

This was a brand new Horse Box and a new(ish) 2t caravan. Both had the wheels balanced, as neither came balanced from the manufactures and that alone especially in a caravan transmits allot of vibration and causes things to come loose etc. It was also the older 3.6 but I doubt that matters in this context.

Good luck fettling the experience  Sold - Bell a 2015 MY16 Loire Blue Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previously George a 2007 MY07 Java Black VSE 3.6 TDV8
Previously a 04 MY04 Defender 90

Thanks both and useful info! From the image below, it appears that the end of the male receiver on the removable eggcup type hitch is different in shape and looks longer. I’m assuming it pushes up against some kind of bar further back in the receiver to create a snug fit that acts like an anti-rattle.



Also good point ref quality of trailer and wheel balancing, which I’d never even considered. The trailer was a rental and it was rubbish. It was wobbling like crazy when unloaded and not accelerating, but settled down a lot when loaded. However, I suspect it was still wobbling a lot hence being transmitted to the car. I’ll bet a nice new Ifor Williams or Woodford Trailer would not have that same problem loaded or unloaded.

If I ever get my own braked trailer I’ll be sure to get the wheels balanced now I know it’s worth doing! Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

Thinking about it now, I'm sure Land Rover had a TSB (technical service bulletin) back in the day for the farmers hitch rattling. If I'm remembering correctly, I believe they shimmed it to make it a more snug fit.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

I welded a bolt onto the end of my hitch on which I fit a plate large enough to cover the receiver then tighten the nut pulling the hitch forwards hard against the pin. The hitch doesn't move.

Some good info here.

So a quick update as have been doing a bit more towing these last few weeks. Nothing as heavy as the rig that started this thread, but a nice double axle un-braked trailer that I use for household errands and gardening stuff. Anyway, it turns out the the anti-rattle clamp I was using doesn’t get a good purchase on the farmers hitch due to the design of a strengthening spline that runs underneath the long bar. In effect, it stops the clamp pulling it up taught. It’s hard to tell when wriggling it by hand but it’s no good. Anyway, I turned it the other way up to the photo here, so nuts on top, and it’s solved the rattle. It’s just the way the Westfalia armature and hitch are designed as there is also a lip around the receiver.

I’m looking forward to doing another 2+ tonne tow soon so will report back when done to see if the improvement is the same with some proper weight! 🤞