I searched around but could not find the definitive anawer
I would like the good people of the forum to confirm that trickle charging via the + and - posts under the bonnet is totally safe and does both batteries

Thank you kindly

Thanks Stan

I assumed that the posts were ok
But the manual says remove battery

Just wanted to know if someone had charged their battery a few times via the posts with no ill effects

Also you have shamed me into updating my profile

I have a 2019 so think that it’s a 2 battery job

Had no problems with a maintenance charger connected to the posts under the bonnet.

I have been connecting my C-Tek to these terminals for 6 months now with no issues 👍🏻 2013 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previous:
AMG C Class
AMG GLA
AUDI RS6
NISSAN GT-R x 5

Thanks gents

Evening all

I have a flat battery on my L405, can I charge it through the tow socket using an adapter and if so which Ctek charge is correct for a 2015 4.4 SDV8 ?

Thanks

I use a CTEK MXS5 for battery maintenance, not sure how long it would take to charge a battery from flat, indeed if it would do it at all. I charge it through the terminals under the bonnet.

I did try charging through the (factory) 13 pin towing socket, but it didn't seem to work. I'm not sure whether or not the permanent 12v pin is live when the ignition is off. 2017 SDV8 Autobiography

Hi, the CTEK MXS5 is a 5A charger and can charge up to 110Ah from flat OK, and can maintain batteries up to 160Ah.

I have my posts permanently wired to a CTEK female socket mounted with 2 small cable ties discretely in the o/s lower small grille, so I can just pull up to my garage and plug it in in a couple of seconds. The socket is waterproof & almost invisible. It’s an easy install in half an hour, I used a bit of bicycle outer brake cable to “fish” from under the bonnet to the outer grille, or rather the other way around, then taped my CTEK cable to the brake cable and pulled it through in seconds.

I read somewhere that you should NOT attempt to charge the vehicle via a tow socket under any circumstances, but can I hell find where I read that, -could even be on here somewhere, being my favourite hunting-ground for FFRR information…..

Get a CTEK MXS5, with remote socket kit, you won’t regret it! Peace of Mind!  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Quote:

I read somewhere that you should NOT attempt to charge the vehicle via a tow socket under any circumstances

Just a related issue, re AGM batteries and CTEK chargers, do NOT use the “”RECOND” mode at all, the 15.8V output will damage the battery, (refer to WM, “the battery maximum charge voltage should be no higher than 14.7V”

Here (courtesy of BIMMERPOST) is what CTEK have to say about it:

“Recond program is developed only for flooded batteries (including EFB), to remix the flooded acid inside.
The remixing/balancing is necessary to treat an already stratified battery, or to prevent severe stratification.
AGM or GEL batteries are not flooded, and therefore does not suffer from stratification. That means Recond will not help AGM or GEL.
Reconding an AGM battery does not harm the battery, but does not help either, so we cannot recommend recond program on AGM batteries either.
For GEL batteries, recond can be harmful, because using too high voltage can dry the gel inside the battery and weaken the battery instead of empowering it.
NOTE:
When you choose Recond program, you should note that Recond program always starts with a normal battery charging program. Then, after battery has reached fully charged, Recond treatment itself is implemented. Depending of charger model and battery size, Recond step lasts from ½ to 4 hours, on top of the charging time.
When charger turns to green light, the program is completed.

I will explain here more about the topic:
So, Recond is made for remixing flooded acid inside the battery– hence, stratified batteries.
What is stratification?
Stratification is when the acid inside the battery gets layered.
As long as the acid and the water of the electrolyte in the battery are well mixed, the battery works as it should. But if the acid and water separate into layers, the battery just cannot be charged anymore regarding the parts that are layered, not by the alternator, nor by a charger.
So, acid that gets layered inside a battery causes loss of capacity.
WHY do the batteries get stratified?
Stratification can happen if the alternator charging voltage is too low or the charging time is insufficient (due to short drives for instance, or a lot of parallel loads during drive). Or if a battery is deeply discharged and unused for a period. Different batteries suffer more or less of stratification, depending of the battery type and qualifications.
Why is stratification a problem?
A stratified battery cannot store voltage as well as a healthy battery, and behaves as a smaller battery than it is. When conventionally charged - by the charger or the alternator- only the parts that still are ok, will be charged. So, a battery seems to be fully charged – but can be emptied by one start attempt. Stratification also promotes corrosion on the upper half of the plates and sulphation problems at the bottom.
Why does recond help?
Recond causes a controlled gassing that remixes the acid and equalizes the acid balance and through that the battery capacity is reclaimed and battery efficiency is restored, partially or almost all of it, depending how severe the problem is.

Just one more thing: Do not mix Stratification with Sulphation problems! Sulphation affects all kind of lead/acid batteries AND every CTEK charging program starts with a desulphation step, so you do not have to worry about that!! “
…………………………..

I hope this information is useful  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Interesting stuff BUT contrary to what you say, the information you posted says quote "Reconding an AGM battery does not harm the battery".

There is of course no point in running the program but if accidently find you have, don't worry, no harm done. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

@AJGalaxy

No, its the JLR Workshop Manual which states “ voltages over 14.7 volts” can damage the battery, -not my words, JLR’s words.

Try reading the relevant sections of the WM. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Ah I see, it was from the message you posted it seemed to be contradictory. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

Just as an aside....I believe my Son's transit connect has stratification. Only heard about this a couple of day ago. Apparently the battery can show fully charged voltage but rapidly looses CCA capacity. His car does the 'dead battery click' when starting even though the voltage is tip-top but jumps starts without any issues. The article I read mentioned gently tilting the battery for a few hours before charging can help (done safely of course)- I assume to remix the chemicals before recon.

I never thought about the recon option - I hung my CTEK5 up for good when I believed it fried my old 322 AGM battery - sounds like it could have been user error! 405 AB exec seats Baltic and Cirrus
93 RR Classic efi

Remember it's easier to get forgiveness than permission!

Gone in order:
4.4 TDV8 SE - gone to a good home
93 Classic hard dash Plymouth Blue
03 L322 Oslo Blue
2000 Disco TD5 ES Epsom Green
98 P38 Rioja Red
89 Classic Cairngorm Brown