For comparison, here is mine.

Click image to enlarge

kevinp wrote:

If you have a suitable piece of hose, pull the hose off the actuator and attach the new long piece and give it a good suck. Actuator arm should move by 90 degrees and close with a good 'thunk' when the vacuum is released.

You need long arms to reach it from the top or take engine cover off the bottom.

I got to it from the top to replace the wiring plug on mine
I stood on a box , removed the pipe from the throttle body and got my arm down behind the radiator.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

I'm impressed you managed to get your arm down there. I took most of the skin off my forearm but I could get my hand to it.

I didn't have a piece of hose suitable to test the vacuum but I could most the sprung arm but it required two fingers and was extremely difficult. Having said that, the stiffness was consistent throughout the range and it was smooth. Is it supposed to be that difficult?

The other end of the hose connects to the front of the engine higher up. Anyone know what it is that generates the vacuum? Could it be the vacuum pump or it it an engine internals type of thing?

Thanks.

Vacuum pump which feeds (a few) vacuum switchover valves, if you had issues with the vacuum pump, you'd notice it on the brakes first, that said, I have had vacuum leaks on other components (engine mounts for example) causing issues with other components on the low volume vac line. You'd need a tee piece and a vacuum gauge to properly diagnose or confirm no vac. leaks / proper vacuum being attained.

The solenoid can fail. LR have a simple test procedure for the solenoid/valve operation although I don't recall the specifics.

Yep, the test is fairly simple, it's a PWM signal from memory but can be checked by applying 12VDC and checking for flow - assuming the vacuum is within spec.

The one that I've seen is something along the lines of allowing the engine to idle for a number of seconds, disconnecting the solenoid electrical connector, increasing revs to around 1000 - 1200 rpm then reconnecting the solenoid electrical connector with specific results, demonstrating that the valve does or does not operate as it should.
A few years ago I lost of lot of files from my year-old laptop when its HD failed and this bulletin was probably lost at that time.

Bit confused. Are you suggesting that there is a solenoid or an electrical connector to the CSOV or do you mean the vacuum pump?

There is a solenoid valve that controls the amount of vacuum supplied to the actuator, the vacuum is supplied by the vacuum pump, the same one that provides vacuum to the brake booster etc.

Great. Thanks. That makes sense. Where is the solenoid located?

I've traced the vacuum pipe up and it appears to connect to the engine a bit higher up.

This is your vacuum control system.

Click image to enlarge

You must be very close to spotting the solenoid as it is near the top of the front of the engine. Note that there is another solenoid so be sure to trace to the correct one.
Note that the solenoid is only available complete with all associated airlines whereas the 3.0 TDV6 solenoid is available by itself. I used to carry a spare solenoid with my 3.0 D4.

Latest error is:

P00BD-07 (27) Mass or volume air flow A circuit range/performance - Air flow too high - General failure information - Mechanical Failure

Now I'm even more confused than ever.

Most frequent error is:

P006A-00 (27) Manifold absolute pressure - mass or volume air flow correlation

Recently joined by an occasional:

P1247-00 (27) Turbocharger boost pressure low