OK so I’ve started giving the RR a bit of TLC inspection and maintenance. I’ve done engine an oil service, fuel, pollen and air filters.
My daily driver was always put in to an indy mechanic who has become a mate. I knew I wouldn’t be able to afford to run a RR if I put it in to a workshop for every little thing, not now I’m retired, so I have to learn.
I didn’t want to keep asking my mate to use his diagnostics every five minutes, so I bought a GAPII BT and have been messing about with that to get my head around diagnostics. Never used a diagnostic tool before and have always been more used to listening, looking feeling and smelling when working on older cars as a hobby. Back in the day when I did my own servicing etc. the only diagnostics were a dwell meter and strobe light.
So I need to be rebooted or whatever.
First a few basic questions.

1 I have an exhaust bracket that is rusted through the one indicated below. It’s the solid bar that connects the two pipes. Is there a standard replacement for retro fitting or do I have to fabricate a new one and weld it on?
Bracket is next to blue dot.




2. While I’m on about welding, is it sufficient to just disconnect the battery before mig welding or is it a must to disconnect the connection to the alternator alternator from underneath the car?

3. I’ve been reading much about the dpf regeneration etc. on the forum and am becoming a dpf “twitcher” as many on this site seem to be. I have become obsessed with taking soot reading with the GAP but I can’t understand why the GAP tool says0L remaining volume for dpf but the soot value can be reading say 7gms. Am I misreading or misunderstanding something.


4 I have had a obd codes for all the injectors as shown below plus the Sensor A code. I know how to deal with the latter thanks to GGDR’s WIKI write up.

Please can anyone help with my previous questions?
Cheers

Have you cleared the codes to see what comes back yet? There's a chance that some of them will be historic so personally, I'd clear the codes, use it for a few days and see what comes back.

The bracket on the exhaust won't be available separately so you'd be looking at fabricating something and welding it on I believe.

Not sure on the welding question, I've never done welding on a car before Well, I have, but nothing with the electrics like there are on a Range Rover.

Regarding the DPF readings, I can't be much help on that, I try not to get hung up on things like that. Have never once seen the DPF warning on our 4.4TDV8.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

DPF remaining volume…I don’t know why , but they all read 0.
With a soot level in single figures it’s obviously working correctly so just forget about it until you get an Amber.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Not sure if this is any help bit I recently did some welding on my, then new to me, 2007 TDV8 FFRR. No dpf so I suspect yours is newer. I was unaware of any particular precautions or procedures so simply disconnected the battery completely, neg first, and welded away, with the 'earth' close to the weld site. I waited a short while before welding and didn't do the live terminal to earth trick (as i was unaware of it!) I was tig welding, which is arguably potentially more likely to create havoc with electronics by virtue of the hf (high frequency) arc starting. I did not have any problems whatsoever. I might have just been very lucky! I've got the rear end of the sills / front of rear wheel arches to do sometime soon so I hope my luck stays good! Your mileage my vary!

Chris

As Baltic said re: the DPF, ignore completely unless you get frequent yellows.
If you get frequent yellows then post them and we'll guide you through resolving it.

It is really not something worth getting into unless you have problems... there were 293,494 L322s built (let's guess, say, 50,000 are 4.4 TDV8) and only a tiny handful of owners have ended up here... so it really is a very rare issue.

Here's an excerpt from the Workshop Manual:

"Active regeneration generally occurs every 250 miles (400 km) although this is dependant on how the vehicle is driven. For example, if the vehicle is driven at low loads in urban traffic regularly, active regeneration will occur more often. This is due to the rapid build-up of particulate in the DPF than if the vehicle is driven at high speeds when passive regeneration will have occurred.

The DPF software incorporates a mileage trigger which is used as back-up for active regeneration. If active regeneration has not been initiated by a back pressure signal from the differential pressure sensor, regeneration is requested based on distance travelled."

Oil Dilution is inferred and calculated by number of regens rather than measured so it's a bit tricky to interpret that figure and take action based upon it. I suggest ignoring that completely too.

Finally.... not all Range Rovers are equal so the above figures are subject to variation! Hope that helps... you would be better off spending your time on literally anything else....

Thank you all for your replies, I was beginning to think I’d contravened some forum etiquette 🙂
The dog seems to be behaving pretty well touch 🪵 .
Regular regents seem to be taking place every 250 mls or so.

I’ve changed engine oil and all the filters, transfer box front and rear diffs and a semi change of the transmission fluid 4
I’ll do a transmission and filter change in a few thousand miles.I’m not sure about these mega flushes.
The oil in the front diff was very very dark so I’ll check/Chang that again in the spring.
I’m going to fabricate a new exhaust bracket using a couple of ‘u’ bolts welded together and a bent bar attached.
I was going to repair the side steps but couldn’t get the offside off in one piece.
I was just going to replace the front flaps but my wife is only 5’1’’ and she says she wants new steps. We will see.
The injector codes keep coming back but the car runs well and gets about 32 mpg on a motorway run doing 70-80mph.
I presume something mud have been done or not done to them in the car’s murky past.
Thanks again for replies.
Cheers