Just spent the best part of 2 hrs swapping my wheels over, made almost impossible by the frickin pathetic not fit for purpose scissor jack (the handle bent making it impossible to use )

Anyway, I noticed that the silver later style wheel nuts my car has, have silver caps on them to look pretty. Now they've been undone and done up a few times, although the nuts themselves are tight, the tin caps are now slightly loose, which although I'm sure I'll never notice when driving, is just annoying me now.

I'm sure it's ok, unless of course they changed the stud and nut type again for later year models to mine!

Anyone else noticed this? Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

OE scissor jack is cr4p, i have a 6ton bottle jack in mine as a addition to the scissor jack and a nice high lift trolley jack at home..

some of my nuts are loose as well but i reckon a bit of super glue dribbled down in between the cap and nut would firm the cap on..

Something else that puzzles me is how vague the handbook is about jacking and wheel changing. It doesn't stipulate if you should drop the car and lock in access height, normal or off road before jacking. It seems to me that when you jack the car up you are mostly lifting the air springs to the extremes of articulation till the wheel actually lifts off the ground, no easy task!

I can see where you can place a bottle or trolley jack under the rear suspension arms, but the fronts are not so obvious.

Any advice from more mechanicy type members on doing this again more efficiently? Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

I'd be careful with the caps. They become distorted over time with undoing and doing (usually air guns screw them up). Eventually they'll get so out of shape the brace will no longer go on, without being hammered. I scrapped three of mine recently for that reason. My Previous RR's!
2018 P400e Autobiography
2008 TDV8 Vogue
2006 TD6 Vogue
2007 TDV8 Vogue
2007 RRS (I know, it doesn't count!)
2005 4.4 Vogue on LPG
2005 TD6 Vogue
2003 4.4 Vogue
2001 4.6 HSE
2000 2.5 DHSE
1999 4.6 HSE
1997 4.6 HSE on LPG
1995 2.5 DSE
1989 3.9 EFI classic
1988 3.5 EFI classic

RRUK wrote:

Something else that puzzles me is how vague the handbook is about jacking and wheel changing. It doesn't stipulate if you should drop the car and lock in access height, normal or off road before jacking. It seems to me that when you jack the car up you are mostly lifting the air springs to the extremes of articulation till the wheel actually lifts off the ground, no easy task!

I can see where you can place a bottle or trolley jack under the rear suspension arms, but the fronts are not so obvious.

Any advice from more mechanicy type members on doing this again more efficiently?

Best practise is to Lock it in OFFROAD using rear door open as in the mode the suspension is already FULLY EXTENDED (no suspension drop possible) and if jacking from under suspension using trolley Jack the wheel comes up of ground real quick.

Will not work with Scissor jack though as bodywork will be to high. Halfords sell cheap trolley jack that works a treat - use it every week

[quote="RRUK"]impossible by the frickin pathetic not fit for purpose scissor jack (the handle bent making it impossible to use )
quote]

Wow, you were brave using "the widow maker" 3 ton workshop trolley jack, and workshop grade axle stand are the only way to do it to be safe.

i also have the same wheel nuts as you, they look like they could become loose, looks like a daft desgn to me, but mine are not loose yet!!

I also have a 2 tonne trolley jack with a stupidly short hand and a very short lift. Rubbish from screwfix.

On the last wheel, when the scissor jack was impossible to use I used this. Got the wheel on, All bolts in and hand tightened, then the jack collapsed!

Luckily all I had to do was check the nuts were done up ok. Could have been much worse.

The trouble is, if you're only doing this once a year or less, would you go and buy a 3 tonne trolley jack?

Back in the days of the Classic, you got a 5 'tonne bottle jack, perfect, why change things? The wheels got bigger and heavier, not smaller! Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB