I want to replace the brake fluid in my car as I do not know when it was last done.

Its an operation I have done many times before using the traditional method of two people one on the brakes bleed nipple and one pumping the brake pedal and checking the reservoir but because of lockdown I cannot ask a friend to come round and help.
I could recruit my wife to pump the brake peddle but checking the reservoir wouldn't be her strong point and because I am getting old and disabled then I dont want to be getting up from under the car.

So what one man bleed kit have you used? is there a kit that automatically tops up the reservoir?

Thanks
David Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

You need a diagnostic tool like the IID or similar to bleed the brakes...

Can't help with a bleed kit though... Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
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2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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I'm not sure that is correct as long as I have not replaced any components in the system especially before the modulator then I will not have introduced any air to the system therefore the ECU will have no idea that any thing has changed.
All I will be doing is pulling fluid through the system and as long as I do not pull air into the system all should be ok.

Is there something special about the Land Rover system that I dont know about? Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

Hi Bigbo. Look up 'Gunsons Eezibleed kit'. Thing is it usually uses your spare tyre as a 'Power source'. Perhaps you could hook it up to a small compressor set on low. I've used one many years back and had good results.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic44822.html 2012 TDV8 Black Edition
2000 Disco. TD5
1975 series III

 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Cheapest and easiest is fitting a non-return valve to the bleed nipple which just prevents anything getting sucked back in on the up stroke of the conventional pedal bleeding process. You fit the pipe and valve and then just crack the bleed nipple and pump the pedal as you would normally without the need to stop to tighten the nipple before the return stroke. The ony downside is you can't see what's happening if you're at the pedal but generally that is not too much of an issue, wait until the fluid in the pipe is clean and clear and has no bubbles in it when you go back and look.
Plenty around from the likes of Halfords or Amazon e.g.:
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-o...21117.html
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sakura-Vizableed-...B004EK0KFM
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vizibleed-One-Bra...B008AHUF46

Next is pressure bleeding from the master cylinder end by forcing the fluid down into the system with a pressurised air source.
Cheapest although not the most convenient as you need to supply your own low pressure air source such as deflated car tyre is, and as already mentioned above, the Gunson Eezibleed. The bottle of the Eezibleed is meant to be filled up in order to top up the reservior as you bleed. The danger of this and other automatic top ups with a pressurised bleed system is the pipe and cap seals onto the master cylinder need to be leak proof otherwise you can get fluid spraying out...not good! When using these type I usually just remove the old fluid out of the master cylinder first and keep it topped with fresh and don't bother with filling any separate reservoir, it's a lot safer and cleaner but does mean you need to keep disconnecting to top up. You might also need to get a different sized 'accessory' or universal cap if the supplied one doesn't fit.
https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/...21158.html
Alternative to the Eezibleed and a bit more expensive but bit more convenient is a hand pump type pressurised unit such as the Sealey VS820 which works well.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS820-Clut...B000ROARTI

Final option is vacuum bleeding by drawing fluid down into the system by 'sucking' on the bleed nipple end. These can be hand vacuum pumps such as a Mityvac or workshops often use a compressor connected venturi vacuum unit. Vacuum bleeding can cause issues with what seems like air keep coming out of the fluid when it's actually air being sucked around the bleed nipple threads itself but a blob of grease or such like on the base of the threads can stop that. Tools like the Mityvac can also be used as a vacuum source for testing other components like vacuum operated valves etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mityvac-MV8000-Test-kit/dp/B00265M9SS
There are also cheaper clones available.

I've used all 3 types over the years and have an old Mityvac and the Sealy VS820 and to be honest for the occansional DIYer the non-return valve is probably the easiest to use and cheapest.