Morning all, Got a problem was wondering if anyone has had the same, last week i was driving to Doncaster to meet my son, about a mile away from my destination i was slowing down for a roundabout, the gear shift was harsh, the the car seemed to be over revving, wouldn't change up, got to destination, got out & checked for anything obvious, nothing, engine sounded fine, went through gears ok, no notifications on dash, turn car off, about an hour later we left to drive home, everything fine for about 5 miles, then car wouldn't change up, like it was in sport mode, after a few minutes the revs dropped to normal & car drove fine, this happened a couple of times on way home, left the car at my sons place & went home, went on line to check forums, general consensus was the trans cooler, so ordered trans cooler, stat & housing, gearbox filter & gasket, 10 litres of trans fluid, diff oil & transfer oil and antifreeze(thought I'll do the lot while it was up in the air) when the gear turned up i changed the cooler, stat & mounting plate(flushed rad) then done the rear diff & transfer box oils, drained the gearbox, very surprised as I only got 2.75litres out!!! was expecting 4 to 6 litres,( never had any issues with gearbox at all until now) changed filter & gasket, followed the filling procedure, got 3.75litrs in took the ambient temp of cooler pipe to gearbox (18.5) started engine & let it warm up until the temp of the cooler pipe reached 50 ( ambient temp plus 30, had to do it this way as i have nothing electronic to check trans fluid temp) filled until fluid was running out, when i got a steady drip, put plug back in. checked for leaks, nothing, my son took it for a test drive, when he got back said to drive great, felt more responsive, gear change smooth. Arranged to pick the car up the next day, drove home (5miles) parked on drive, got out & saw oil all over the place!!!! had a look & saw that one of the cooler pipes had come off ( couldn't understand this as i pushed & pulled on them to make sure they were seated correctly, it was too dark to do anything so decided to have a look in the morning(yesterday morning) refitted the cooler pipe, pushed & pulled to make sure it wasn't loose, when through the filling procedure again, topped up with 3.5 litres, checked pipes, all ok, took car for a test drive, drove fine, got home checked pipes, all ok, no leaks, pipes tight. We decided to go shopping an hour later, drove about a mile, pulled up at lights went to pull away, trans failure come up on dash, limped off the main road & checked pipes, oil all over the place, same pipe had come off!!!, called AA to get car home, AA man thinks it a dodgy pipe connector to cooler(push fit) so have ordered two new cooler pipes & more trans fluid. My question is has anyone had the same problem? is there anything else that could be causing pipe to pop off? back pressure if there is such a thing on this system? any ideas would be very welcome, the car is a 2003 l322, 4.4 petrol BMW lump. Thanks in advance.
Regards
Tommo

Not happened to me but I hate those connections on those pipes, so to make sure they never pop off I've safety tied them with some light stainless wire, might be worth doing next time you have access

Hi I had the exact same problem as you with the oil cooler pipes popping off after the cooler had been changed. I ended up replacing both cooler lines and then cable tying them on tight to the oil cooler itself to stop it being physically possible for them to pop off again.

It's been 2 years since and had no more issues. Gearbox oil isn't cheap but think of it as you have flushed all the diluted old oil out so now when you fill it up your gearbox will have pretty much 80 - 90% fresh oil! 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 v8 LPG, Java Black, 22' Hawke Alloys, Black Beast

Morning both, thanks for the info, i agree, one positive is the oil being changed, but my main concern is /was is there anything else that could possibly be causing the connection to fail apart from a dodgy hose connector, would hate to change the hoses & it happens again due to something else, that's why i suggested backpressure, it just seems strange that i pushed & pulled on them, didn't move, then the test drive, all ok after checking again, then coming off an hour later, hopefully the new pipes will be here today or tomorrow, get them fitted & see how we go, will let you know what happens.
Regards
Tommo

I had to replace the trans cooler pipes, I used genuine ones, they came with a warning "ONLY TO BE USED WITH GENUINE COOLER" (or words to that effect), Did you use genuine parts? or a mix of genuine / non genuine? that may be your problem

The other thing to consider is the main radiator, it is the bottom 8 rows that is used to cool the transmission oil (when the oil gets hot, the thermostat opens and allows coolant from the main radiator to flow around the oil cooler and thus cool the oil, the transmission oil is NOT cooled by air over the oil "radiator") if you flush the main radiator, it is very difficult to flush the bottom 8 rows as the lower outlet is above them, I know because I ended up replacing the main radiator and I cut open the old one, it was completely blocked. 2010 3.6 TDV8

Afternoon all, thanks for the input rryorks, the cooler I used was sourced from island4x4, Mahle/Beru, it was the same unit as used by another member who posted a "how to do" very good post it is as well, a new rad was fitted to the car about 4 years ago, I have flushed it twice, but I suppose it could still be blocked never had any cooling problems though, when i fitted the cooler & finished everything else, while the car was running & up to temp i got underneath the car to feel the cooling hoses from rad to trans cooler they were very hot to the touch, I know that's not a very good way of testing but it gave me a good indication that I was getting circulation, the only other way I can think of to get a more accurate reading is to get the delta t measurement across the flow & return hoses on both rad side cooling & trans cooler pipework cooling, if temp is more than 10 degrees difference on either side I think I could possibly say that the rad is blocked, I'll give it a go when the new pipes are fitted & gearbox filled again.
Knightrider & Dingg1 have made a good couple of suggestions, tying the hoses in place as a back up, I'll do that as well & wrap with Krakan tape (have used it on steam and medium temp hot water systems as a emergency fix, good for waterproofing electrical wiring looms, S Type Jags come to mind).
Once again thank you for info/input, its very welcome.
Regards
Tommo

That's interesting, because it was island 4x4 that I bought the pipes from and who put the note on about only using with a genuine cooler! 2010 3.6 TDV8

Morning rryorks, fitted the new hoses, tried to wire them in place with some 0.8 co2 welding wire, too stiff to get a good fixing on, but will get some softer wire & have another go, had a look at the push fit connector, sure enough the 4 holding clips were no good, didn't seem to be any spring in them, so they must have only just caught the flange & when under pressure popped off, took temp readings of the cooler flow & return pipes, 58 degrees at the inlet/outlet ports, with a 5 degree difference,( although i suspect it wasn't fully up to temp) the temp readings at the gearbox end(where the cooler pipework enters the gear box) using a laser temp reader, was 68degrees & 70 degrees respectively.










some time today I'll take the rad hose temps, just to make sure i have full circulation.
Regards
Tommo

You are correct about the bottom 8 rows on the main radiator. It needs changing as it Cannot be flushed.

This is the data from Land Rover.

Land Rover issued a Technical Service Bulletin in September 2007 for "High Engine Speeds and/or Transmission Shift Problems" which stated :

"The customer may experience high engine speeds and/or transmission shift problems after driving for 25 minutes or longer. There may also be the possibility of the transmission overheat message being displayed on the instrument cluster. High transmission fluid temperatures may be the cause of the problem"

In other words the transmission is selecting 'cooling strategy' mode as the bulk oil temperature has exceeded 140 deg. C.

The fault is caused by a partial blockage in the lower eight tubes of the (engine) radiator which supply coolant to the transmission oil cooler - supposedly caused by "depletion of the coolant corrosion inhibitor".

The bulletin states that it's not possible to clean out the partial blockage and that the radiator must be replaced.

LTB00080 - 15 Aug 2007

VIN Numbers 100042-175505

This is one of the forum threads

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic27376-15.html

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic2438.html

This is also interesting reading.

Gearbox Modes
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic20319.html

Evening all, hope everyone keeping well, I still wasn't happy so booked the car in to The Mechanical Workshop to let them put the gear box through its paces & to plug into diagnostic reader, picked the car up next day, they told me that everything was fine, the only fault thrown up was for the fan(can't remember the code at the min) but being a bit paranoid about it now i decided to buy a new rad, t-stat modification kit & a vanos solenoid valve(left bank bit tappety) all the gear came by last Friday, so spent Saturday changing out the rad & done the mod to the t-stat, had to wait until Sunday(yesterday)for the 32mm box spanner to arrive (Amazon) for the solenoid valve, swopped that out, refilled system with fluid. started car, the tappet noise has gone & cooling system seems ok, it was getting a bit late so knocked it on the head until i got home from work tonight, hooked up my icarsoft & drove about 20 miles, everything seems fine, recorded the data, when the car was in motion the coolant temp was about 88degrees, rad temp between 60 & 67 degrees, got home & let it idle for 10mins, the coolant temp went up to 91 degrees, rad temp 71 degrees, no hot smell coming from engine bay now, will check the viscus fan next weekend.
Regards
Tommo

Just confirming it's the m62 v8 tommo as you changed a vanos solenoid. I recently had similar with gear box slip mine turned out to be the radiator common failure on the m62. As you have done the stat mod I would be tempted to swop out the rad just to be sure the last 6 inches of the rad block up the very part that is meant to cool the oil cooler.
Iv also flushed my gearbox with x3 oil changes and a new filter and done all the other fluids while I was there.

Evening Gxsr, I've done the radiator Saturday(already done the trans cooler a few weeks ago) also done the gearbox filter & oil change x 3, although the 3 oil changes were accidental as the hoses popped.....twice..lol, also done a fluid change on the transfer box & rear diff, still got to do the front diff, got the oil for it. Thanks for your post, its appreciated.
Regards
Tommo

Looks like you have it all covered

Afternoon all, everything's been fine for the last week or so, that is until today, driving on the A47 to fill up the car, dreaded bong from dash, Trans fail program, car changed down to 4th, wouldn't budge from it, at the next roundabout turned round to go home ( had my icarsoft connected & recording) got home had a look at the log & saved it, reset fault codes & took the car out again (5 or 6 miles) never missed a beat, changed & sounded like it should( was recording this run as well), i'm looking to see if i can upload the data to here, hopefully some one can have a look & see if the parameters look ok, apart from the fault codes that is, looks like a transfer box problem, any thoughts will be very much appreciated. P0720 P1615, doesn't look like i can upload the log, the P1615 code will be because i carried out the T-Stat conversion modification.......I think
Regards
Tommo