2010 TDV8 4.4.

I was out this evening and a coupling on top of the engine inexplicably broke and water was everywhere. Dash lit up like an Xmas tree, etc. On opening the bonnet the culprit was easily visible right on top. Took frequent stops and 9 litres of water to get home.



Some light Googling isnt yet showing me a reliable engine diagram or parts list. Can anyone point me towards a resource with a decent exploded drawing and/or look up a part number for that coupling please? The one with top hose in and out and a small pipe off each side.

Hoping to try the main stealer tomorrow if they have one in, if not I'll order online with next day delivery from somewhere. So a part number would be really handy. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
1982 Rolls Royce Silver Spirit in green
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

No idea sorry, but http://cat.lrparts.ru will have it.

Only available as a complete unit including hoses I believe, mine broke in exactly the same place - I tapped a thread in the exposed hole after cutting the remaing bits of the joint flush, theres enough meat in the main section, then screwed in a metal joining pipe for the small plastic hose to push on to, not leaked since

stu1 wrote:

No idea sorry, but http://cat.lrparts.ru will have it.

JCW wrote:

I tapped a thread in the exposed hole after cutting the remaing bits of the joint flush, theres enough meat in the main section, then screwed in a metal joining pipe for the small plastic hose to push on to, not leaked since

Part no depends on your vin, but mine is

LR029140 as far as I can tell.

Will be LR only so if you give your local parts department a call they will be able to find it. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Thanks for that, yes indeed it's that. Eighty odd quid as you must buy the hoses with it. I'm not liking the idea of £80 to replace a tiny bit of snapped plastic. I think I'll repair it as JCW suggested.

So it's either an internal stent Araldited in, or a screw in self tapping jobby.

JCW, can you point me towards what you used, please? 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
1982 Rolls Royce Silver Spirit in green
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

I opened the hole out to around 8mm, tapped a thread, then used a female to female co-ax plug (as you'd use for aerial wiring) with the plastic insert removed (drilled out) - its what I had floating around in my tool box, has the same internal diameter as the smaller pipe, had threads on each end and fitted perfectly! I applied some araldite to the threads before screwing it in / pressing the small pipe back on.

Here's a picture of the plug - less than a quid opposed £80.

Great fix JCW, thanks for sharing.

Click image to enlarge

I didn't have aerial connectors or taps handy so I did it another way. I'll share it here as it may help others.

As I have a couple of stents I reckon a stent would work. The joint doesn't seem under a great deal of pressure, so I'm hopeful it will last.

Here's the broken bit:



I cleaned it out a tad by hand with a drill bit to get the bits of smeg out and key inside the holes.

Here is a small piece of brake pipe which is the perfect size as a stent. Clean it up with a file or a bit of sandpaper so it will key and chamfer the ends a tad.



Clean the insides of the pipes and the break area up with meths or similar and a cotton bud. Dry it off with a hairdryer so its bone dry and also the plastic will expand a tad.



Araldite one half of your stent up and twist it in with long nose pliers. Araldite the other side of your stent up now.



Hold it in place with the long nose pliers while you offer the pipe up to it so you know the stent is about 50/50 in each side, then slide it nicely home as you remove the long noses.



Looks alright to me and no £80 going on. Takes less than ten minutes.

If it fails I'll use JCW's method instead. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
1982 Rolls Royce Silver Spirit in green
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

basically the same approach, sure it'll be fine - actually more robust than the original connection!

looks like a decent fix.

 There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

JCW wrote:

basically the same approach, sure it'll be fine - actually more robust than the original connection!

Yes bleeding is required, undo the plastic screw a little on the top hose (near the expansion tank) and with the engine running, leave open until it stops bubbling. I wrapped the pipe with a small towel to stop the coolant dribbling down into the front of the engine bay - I believe its not a good idea for coolant (antifreeze) to come into contact with paintwork.

Super, thank you. Final bit of the fix there for the enthusiastic amateur.

Between us this topic is an excellent "how to" to save members £80+ each on a new hose assembly.

From Googling, this seems a very popular item to fail. I'm surprised one of the parts specialists haven't made the coupling after-market if demand exists. We make appliance parts and are not averse to car parts. I have an explanatory article >>here<< and would welcome input from the repair trade there on this specific part. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
1982 Rolls Royce Silver Spirit in green
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

JCW wrote:

I opened the hole out to around 8mm, tapped a thread, then used a female to female co-ax plug (as you'd use for aerial wiring)

Here's a picture of the plug - less than a quid opposed £80.

Me being a pedant.  John
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