I’d be spraying with plus gas every night for a week before attempting to get that ball joint out -looked easy peasy in the clip , but suspect it won’t on a UK car 4.2 SC - sold , now bought back
4.4 AdBlu Tractor - Stolen

Upper arm has the seperate ball joint lower arm is the one with the fitted one is correct i beleive.

Splitting the ball joint is the least of the worry its getting the old one out thats the trouble. Splitting can be done by hammering the arm down and hitting the side with it in and wiggling the wheel and it will come out, or atleast mine did fairly simply. Getting the old one out means chisels, hammer action and possible hub removal and thats one the proviso the hex bolts undo and you don't ruin the heads, then its a steady angle grinder or drilling the heads off or irwin extractors. All doodable but not the most fun. Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

I did mine by chiselling it from the back and knocking the ball joint out the other side leaving the cassette part stuck. I then cut a groove in the inside face of the cassette through to the hub to give it a bit of room to move and smashed the living daylights out of it with a chisel and club hammer.

Checkout AUTODOC for parts prices too. On the ball joints I paid about £20 for lemforder ones which are the OE part. And currently have the lemforder arms for about £45 There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Thanks for the info Mark, those are good prices.

So I've had the wheels off today doing the brake pads.

After doing the brakes I also gave the wheel as much pulling and pulling as I could and even with a small pry bar I couldn't see any untoward movement from that bush. Or the ball joints for that matter.

I also don't have 'the clunk' which seems like a common giveaway for this arm.

It was an advisory on my MOT hence this thread and I want to do it if it needs doing, but at the moment, struggling to see the problem.

Any advice on testing methods?

Here's the bush he questioned:

I tested mine with some lateral movement. Get a largish bar in between the upper and lower arms and pull down and see how much twist you have. A little bit is fine apparently a lot or if its easy the bush has too much play.

Come at it so you are using the lower arm to the front as the support for the bar if you catch my drift. Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

Ive done all the front end parts last week, upper and lower arms, ball joints and inner and outer track rods. Had previously done drop links. All parts fitted are bearmach which i ordered direct off there website and got free delivery. Approx £250 all in with 10% discount code. 2011 RR Autobiography 4.4 TDV8

Quote:

Personally I would doubt those rubbers in the end of the arm are shot. They are meant to have a large amount of movement in them to allow for axle articulation. Did the tester know what he was looking at?

The control arms are under pressure so you wont be able to diagnose it whilst on the car.. I tried everything and even tried a garage who said the play was normal. However when there is movement at both (the ball joint and bush) ends this is where you get typical (suspension parts worn) symptoms.

Best thing is to change the full arm..

I took this photo 2 weeks ago when I changed the drivers side arm.

 Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

hi scot, thing is this arm has one bush, no ball joint.

The ball joint is on the cassette, that is the b***stard job it seems.

So it you change the arm seems it all depends on whether the taper comes off easy.
If it does then it would be quickest to do the whole arm.

Seems it a gamble to do the arm which may or may not be easy vs changing the bush only which may be tricky, but less or the same amount of work as changing the ball joint cassette (if you damage the ball joint rubber)

I'm favouring changing the bush only, if I can leave the arm at the other end connected I won't disturb the rubber of the ball joint.

Also If I change the arm, and the cassette ball joint, you could argue they all need doing i.e. both arms need doing per side, four arms with their ball joints and bushes.

I just don't know how to verify the amount of play to see if it really does need doing.

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

also I've got no noise that's why I'm not 100% convinced on this...
. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Trust me.. you would be better of changing the whole arm.

I agree changing the ball joint in the hub is not easy but you will find it is the ball joint failing that cause the excessive movement causing in premature wear.

It take around 45 mins to remove with constand heating, hammering, chisel. You need a good summer day.. take your time and it will pop out. Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

so arm + cassette you are saying?

No blow torch so I'll struggle....
.


. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Check my post on the 1st page. Get a butane torch from Toolstation or Screwfix.. not expensive. Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

ok a butuane torch I can do!
Thanks Scot I'll check it out with that in mind.
. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

It was upper/lower control arm plus ball joint day today on my car i decided to let my mate john do it for me and glad i did it was a pig of a job also while he had the hub off he replaced the outer cv boot and dropped in new brake pads.
He did both sides of the car in an afternoon pretty decent going but as a mobile mechanic run of the mill stuff for him