Need a permanent live in boot, prefereably left hand cubby hole but doesn't seem to be anything obvious there. The right hand cubby hole has the fuse box but not sure which ones would be permanently live. Manual not that helpful. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Gone, but not forgotten

Isn't there also a big thick red cable coming into the fuse box on the right ?

That is definitely live.

Yes Alistair that's true but I was hoping to find a fuse I could use. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Gone, but not forgotten

standing at the back and looking into the FF, theres a fuse box on the right cubby Rob......use a multimeter to see which is a permanent live and use a piggy back fuse and if you need that on the left then run a wire from one side to the other.... ... - .- -.




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Thanks Stan. Have a multimeter so will check the fuses out. Is it a problem if I say use the fuse that's for something else? Not an auto electrician so need some guidance  2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Gone, but not forgotten

it will be ok as long as the amps of the 'new' item doesnt go over the fuse amperage.. ... - .- -.




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Should be fine as I think I need less than an amp. Cheers.

I like Christmas as it means I get to spend time exploring my Westie......  2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Gone, but not forgotten

Strictly, it will be ok if the combined maximum current demand of the exiting devices on the circuit, plus that of the new device don't exceed the fuse rating. Trouble is, you probably don't know what current the existing devices draw, so it's guesswork at best. If you're dealing with a low current new device, it'll probably be fine. If it's a higher draw device, I'd probably go a different way.

Taking from the main feed to the fuse box and adding an inline fuse would be the safe thing to do. There might be an unused existing fuse you could consider. Traditionally, these would be there by design but only all used if a car had all the available options installed. Trouble is, our FFRs do seem to have most of the options!

Do you have a tow bar installed? If not, there should be a spare 15a or 20a that would otherwise be used for the 12S socket. Current: 2010 Range Rover L322
Vogue SE, TDV8 3.6, Bournville
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Now gone: 2002 Range Rover L322
Vogue, TD6, Giverney Green

Cheers Steve. F8 (15a) and F9 (30a) both seem to have trailer symbols but I don't have either a towbar or electrics and they seem to be permanent live so should be usable. Failing that I will connect to the big fat permanent live cable and use an inline fuse.

Are there any perm lives on left hand cubby?? 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Gone, but not forgotten

Hi Rob - It looks like you might be in luck. I've had a quick look at mine (2010MY, so guessing its the same or similar to yours) and I think there is a perm +12v which is fairly accessible.

There is a wrapped loom, lying in the bottom of the left-hand cubby - see photo - and within that loom there is a thick red wire. That appears to be perm +12v, though worth checking that it really is. In old days, we could say easily whether it was ignition switched or perm +12v, but on these cars it can take up to 20mins for everything to switch off.

I don't know what circuits that serves, but it's fairly chunky so if you're talking about small additional current draw, it should be fairly low risk. I'd still advise an inline fuse. If you're nervous about cutting into the loom at all, I'd still take it from the other side - it shouldn't be hard to run across the spare wheel well.

Steve

Thanks Steve, will investigate that one.

Otherwise should be simple to run a supply across the spare wheel well. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Gone, but not forgotten