I have a new one at home with hoses,oil seperator ect all ready to be fitted..i was going to fit them over the holidays but I've just had a look at my existing pipes and they are seriously soft/gummy...it needs it done asap.. I'm wondering how hard a job it really is? Read a few posts in here about it and I'm up for it..also wondering where exactly on the engine I'm meant to kneel

I used a mechanics board to lay across the engine, it's much easier than kneeling believe me.

Be prepared for the small torx head bolts keeping the pcv in place to strip their heads, 3 of mine did so I replaced all of them with Allen head bolts.

The oil separator and the two larger pipes are fairly easy to replace but the smaller 4 inch pipe is very awkward. Be prepared for skinned knuckles

Regards ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Great..that's all I needed to know Thanks for the pointers once again my good man..

 ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Some people have stated they had Torx 30 but mine were actually Torx 27 (25 seems like it will fit however it will strip so beware, 27 is that awkward one in the middle which is usually left out of the sets). Also, I think they are actually Torx + not regular Torx so you should have less of a chance of stripping them is you use a Torx + bit. Also, there are two on the bottom which are very hard to reach with a regular socket wrench. There is not enough clearance with the back coolant lines. I got a regular wrench with a rachet end and put a torx + bit in it in order to crack it loose. I replaced all with regular bolts.

Also make sure you get the proper clamps when you reinstall the lines. The two in the back corner of the motor attaching to the crankshaft pick up metal lines leak real bad if you do not put the clamps on them. I found out the hard way. I actually put a clamp on the thicker 4" hose coming from the oil separator, however the clamp I used ended up shredding the hose as I tightened it (I had a generic hose clamp from home depot). I have since replaced with a different clamp and it is now tight. However, I am still getting a light drip from the other line, so I am ordering the clamp from the dealer (I am referring to the long skinny hose that goes under the intake from the drivers side of the PCV valve down to the crank case pick up line). One last thing to point out is that both crankshaft pick up metal lines have bulges on them. I mistakenly put the skinny hose too far down and actually went over the bulge. It leaked real bad, and then when I ran my fingers down it I could feel it and pulled it up a bit so it is flush with the bulge. Now, it just has the slight drip until I get the clamp.

Some of this may be obvious to you, but I just wanted to point out my mistakes.

Take your time and be patient. Do it in stages if you can, it is tough to do in one sitting. I put a folded up towel on the front of the motor and put my right knee on the drivers side valve cover and left knee on the throttle body.

The below links are useful:

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/mkii...-pcv-parts

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/mkii...-pcv-valve





Bad Clamp:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Thanks for the write up That's going to be a huge help! I'm away to get new bolts,banjo fixings ect just now and I'm giving myself the weekend to do it ( weather permitting of course...next weekends going to be my attempt at replacing the thermostat with the upgraded one and flushing coolant from system and reinstating it....thankyou..

No problem

Hi alistair,

I was advised somewhere on this forum to use silicone grease when assembling the cooling system back together, mainly the hoses where they clip onto the radiator and water pump etc, but I also used a bit when doing the oil separator pipes. It makes putting the smaller 4 inch pipe onto the metal a lot easier.

I bought mine from a plumbers merchant, if you are going to get some I would advise getting a tin not the tubes as the tin makes for a cleaner job. By the way that's my own preference from past experiences......

Regards ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Hi mate . I'm working alongside a plumber just now...I'm off to check his van for some Makes sense actually..thanks for input as per..

Anything to make the job easier  ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Hi.
I did mine a few weeks ago expecting it to be a lot worse a job than it was. I used some fluro lined silicone for the house that runs across the head. Car does an extra 1.5mpg now too..
my main hoses had been replaced but when off you could see from the date on the PCV that it was the 13yr old original, and the rear small pipe has long ago come off..
Took about an hour, followed the wiki..  2003 4.4 Adriatic Blue FF

While your there replace the little plastic water pipe joiner that sits behind the PCV. Mine was leaking a little, think it's common. Easy to do while there and only about £10 2003 4.4 Adriatic Blue FF

Hi Lee, did you replace all 4 hoses or just the top two?

If all 4, did you clamp both sides of the 4" as well as both sides of the long skinny hose?

Hi.
The top two had been replaced before I bought the car, but not the valve. I did replace the other two with silicone hose , the bigger bit I had from another project, I then ordered a metre from Amazon of the smaller one, I think 5mm id without looking back. I managed to clamp them all with jubilee clips, long reach on ¼ ratchet set as well as the t27 torx.

A bit of a struggle but you need to sit right on the engine which helps. I'd just finished doing the rocker gaskets when I decided to do it, that was more fiddly.. 2003 4.4 Adriatic Blue FF