thank you for the links, mine have the same problems Silencio's one

i have contcated the seller this afternoon and had the last 2 he had from him- might be worth contacting him and enquire if he is getting any more stock!

I've got a set coming that i now dont need, if when they arrive somebody wants them at what i paid let me know. Ian

ARRIVED if you want them pm me! Ian

Mine have arrived as well. Def worth it!

Took a little while to cut the old buttons out and get rid of all the little bits in the slits as in del's pics. And looks and works like new. Well aside form the funky hatch release button design Makes me chuckle every time I look at it.

The seller is gonna get a great review from me.

I'll try'n post pics on the WE. Too lazy to dl from the camera tonight. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

I need 1 set!

Gazellio wrote:

I need 1 set!

pm sent  Ian

Replied

Gazellio wrote:

Replied

Ok, here are some pics:

Before. Ugly, gummy blob buttons on left key, good oem key on right, replacement buttons in the middle.


After cutting out the old buttons. They are molded through the little slits around the perimeter of the holes. Bit of a PITA to get everything clean


Shiny new buttons. Did not do any addtl sealing as mentioned on p.1 of this thread as the key is not watertight to begin with.


Fit and finish is really good. Function is like new. The only differences are that the lock buton is slightly raised compared to oem, the hatch release design is funny, and the 'Land Rover' script goes in rather than being raised. Very good product, tho. We'll see how long they hold up.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

T24RES wrote:

Gazellio wrote:

Replied

Sold

Just received and fitted in minutes - very happy and thanks mate

Since fitting the new panel the key must have lost power and will open the car set the seat but will not turn in the ignition.

I have tried the synchronise sequence:

Key in, position 11, key out,

1st key hold unlock while pressing lock 3 times, release unlock button - car locks go click, then

2nd Key hold nlock while pressing lock 3 times, release unlock button - car locks go click, then

key back in ignition turn to pos 11 then key out.


This works fine and both keys open the doors remotely and set the seat memory positions but the key with the new rubber panel is not always recognised by the immobiliser (although it does intermittently) any ideas?

Here is a very useful document on all Land Rover Key Fob battery replacement and re-syncing procedures:

http://www.garyelliott.co.uk/ffrr/Key%20Fob%20Programming.pdf

Warning opening the key fob risks damaging the numbered "Chip" at the front of the circuit board that connects with the key shaft and tell the immobiliser that its the right key. The key working in the ignition slot and turning off the immobiliser has no relation to the programming of the key to open doors etc detailed above!

Looks like I am going to have to buy a new key......

New Key £186 + VAT

Hey Gaz,
The symptoms you describe are when the chip is missing altogether - did you replace it? It sits under the circuit board next to the buttons. Looks something like this:

Click image to enlarge