Some advice would be much appreciated. I am just removing a wheel for the first time. The nuts all have stainless steel caps, something I have never seen on my previous cars. Some caps are loose and the socket jams. Am I doing something wrong or do I need new nuts? Do all L322 nuts have these caps or cash you get solid nuts.

Andy

http://www.wrington.co.uk/landrover%20alloy%20wheel%20nuts.html

Solid nuts, aint cheap as the actress said to the bishop  Geoff

Ouch, i might get some stainless hex bar and turn some out on the lathe.

Or buy some standard ones

the nuts do swell unfortunately but there are cheaper solid type on ebay, about £45 for a set of 20 ...


link, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-x-ALLOY-WHEEL...SwDNdVwz~8


as you havnt filled in your car profile , i gather they are for a 2006 onwards FF... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Thanks guys. I have abandoned my idea of making a set. Too much effort to make 20 all identical, particularly as they have a taper and stainless can be a pain to machine. Something I might do in the future and machine a custom design on the face.

I have just purchased a set of standard ones for £52.

Thanks Stan. Saw your post 2 minutes too late I will update profile

the standard ones should last a fair while....  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

The foreman at the dealer I used advised against stainless nuts on the grounds that the interaction between the stainless and aluminium in the wheels would cause more corrosion on the wheels, that sounds counter-intuitive but as LR were prepared to replace my swollen nuts under warranty (yes I know, sounds painful) I just went with that. I did find some evidence online to support the stainless/aluminium issue, in the context of construction. I've also replaced the locking nuts with normal ones and instructed the dealer to use only hand tools rather than air on the wheel nuts, both on tyre shop advice. Only Range Rovers since 1988

I got standard nuts, OEM not genuine, from Dan and they seem fine. I didn't buy a set though just replaced the ones that the socket didn't easily fit.

I think they'll last, the photo of the eBay nuts doesn't do them any favours, do they really look this shoddy in the flesh? - cheap for a reason ? Geoff

Just to finish off this thread - I purchased a set of 20 nuts from PowerfulUK (£52) and fitted them all today. Some nuts were very damaged and swollen and I had to really knock the socket on with a hammer. They all came undone ok but I was then left with the socket stuck fast to the nut - this took a lot of effort with the bench vice and a drift to get the socket back. I was very glad I didn't have to change a wheel by the roadside because I don't think it would have been possible - I think the RAC / AA would have struggled too. I cleaned all the stud threads up and put some copper grease on before fitting the new nuts.

The moral of the story - check your nuts and replace any with loose caps or where the socket won't go on easily. Also, I needed a 4 ft breaker bar for some of the nuts - I now carry that in the wheel well - the standard wheel brace isn't long enough for nuts that have been put on with a gun or even with a breaker bar. I didn't bother reusing or replacing the locking wheel nuts - I would if I had expensive wheels maybe.