Hi all, I am not sure if this is just the way the car should be with air suspension or if I need to change my pads and discs ( which I will probably do soon anyway ).

When braking at high speed, I.e on the motorway or dual carriage way, with any sort of force it feels like the car is wobbling! Sort of as if not all the brakes are coming on at the same time. It does stop and I have no error messages just gives you a second or so of a brown trousers moment. The front hoses have been done on the recall so won't be those. As I say I am not sure if this is normal having air suspension or I should be getting it checked out by a specialist. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Something is wrong - it should brake smooth & straight - mine have always felt like I could brake without holding the steering wheel - no wobble or pull to either side on a flat piece of road.

Check all the wheel nuts are tight.

After that it sounds like warped discs - of possibly a dodgy calliper

^as above, wheel nuts then check the rear calipers for excess heat after a run to see if one is binding. Next is to check the discs and pads all round then onto bushes ball joints, and track rod ends. Any and or all can cause the judder. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Sticking caliper slide pin is also possible cause. John
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I checked the wheels for excess heat as I'd read it was an issue sometimes on the rears but all seemed about the same. The discs have a bit of a lip on them and pads are getting a bit low so will change the as out first as they will need doing anyway and see how I go from there! I didn't think it seemed right to be honest.

Re checking bushes ball joints and track rod ends is it a case of jacking the car up into axle stands and giving everything a good pull to see if there is any excess play? There is no squeaking that I can hear at the moment. Re the calliper slide pin I assume this is something I can check when I change the pads and discs? What should I be looking out for?

Thanks

The clue is in the description - "slide" If it doesn't slide easily it won't work! Yes, when you change the pads you will have the guide pins out so you can check to ensure they move easily and work as intended. They are likely to be all gunked up with black stuff. I usually clean them up all shiny (blunt knife then wet and dry paper) and refit with some "Copper Ease" (not too much!) or similar. You will also see if you have one side of the caliper wearing out the pads more than the other, a good clue that something is sticking, and whether you are able to easily push the piston back in to install the new pads. Also worth having a good look at your discs, see if the are still "true", even if not requiring replacement due to thickness/thinness. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
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Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks joe will just replace the discs too as they are fairly old looking at them, at least I will know that I have everything new on all corners! Don't want to take any chances topping something that size! Hopefully that will resolve the issues if not its onto the suspension checks.

On another subject joe I have read with interest your guide on changing the brake lines and am going to do them aswell as LR said they were corroded on the visual health check when I had the front hoses done. Do you know what size the large fitting is for the rear as I understand one side is bigger then the other on the lines?. Want to make sure that I have all the kit to hand when I start.

Had the same issue on mine, rear caliper pin was tight. Wasn't even too bad to be honest but made a huge difference once freed off.

It's generally not the calliper itself which sticks, it's the caliper carrier which corrodes and grips the pad which stops it freeing off when you take your foot off the pedal.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Well I have now replaced the front discs and pads and they were all fine the back ones were a different story.

The rear offside one had a sticking sliding pin at the bottom which I freed with a bit of persuasion. The Nearside one however the bottom sliding pin is stuck rock solid and I cannot get the sliding pin out. This means that I cant replace the brake pads because the pin is stuck so I am at a loss as to what to do next. I have used lots of WD40 and tried to hammer it down to free it but nothing.

Can you replace just the part with the sliding pins in only or is it a full new caliper job? Or any other advice to free the pin would be appreciated.

Atleast I know what the breaking issue was though so hopefully that will be cured now .

Got the Pagid pads and discs from Euro car parts and the cost £240 in total with a discount code so worked out £60 a corner which seems like really good value to me.

I'm trying to remember, but I'm fairly sure I had sticky rear callipers on my 07 - they needed replacing but think they were refurb units & I had to return the callipers that I removed.

I think I got them from Dan @ Duckworths - so may be worth asking him as it sounds like it might be the easiest solution.

The Pins are part of the caliper carrier not the actual caliper itself. to get them you will need to buy that not the piston part.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

if a Blow torch and a suitable drift wont do it, then it;s probably a case of getting a new carrier.

Definitely brakes. I had something similar in my old S8. Only happened at high speed braking; pottering around town it was unoticeable.

Thought I'd give an update incase anyone else has similar issues. Managed to free the pin eventually using lots of persuasion and some home made penetrating fluid made up of ascetone and atf fluid which did the trick! Also used joe 90's guide and do the rear brake lines which were exactly the same on the tdv8 as the td6 so pretty easy! The braking issues have now gone and no more wobbles so was definitely the sticking calliper pins causing the issues!

Had a question though about the rear discs and the epb to check I did it correctly:

The sequence I followed was jack the car up on axle stands, remove the wheels and calipers! Epb off and held down while I turned off the car with the gear stick in neutral.

Disconnected the negative battery terminal and the rotated the disc to around 6 o'clock. Freed off the parking brake using the winder nut, removed the disc and replaced and tightened the winder back up as far as it would go without forcing it! Replaced pads wheels back on and battery connected and bled the brakes.

Is this correct or should I have tightened the winder nut, then freed it back off 8 or 10 clicks as I have read since, to adjust the epb, or will it self adjust and I did it correctly?? Any guidance would be greatly received.