Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > Castrol Magnatec for VANOS rattle |
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doclees Member Since: 24 Jun 2015 Location: PA Posts: 672 |
I got some MAGNATEC on sale to see if it helps quiet the Vanos start-up rattle. If it hasn't been reviewed for this I'll let you all know next week. I was confused(not the first time) that it is fully synthetic in the weights under 5w30 but synthetic blend above. Anyone know why? |
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16th Aug 2015 10:10pm |
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RR P38 Member Since: 12 Oct 2013 Location: Sydney Posts: 215 |
I would be sticking with a higher quality fully synthetic oil than Magnatec.
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17th Aug 2015 1:58am |
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doclees Member Since: 24 Jun 2015 Location: PA Posts: 672 |
Just on start up. Overall it smooths out quick. I guess another 30 to 50k miles before a Vanos rebuild. I have other fully synthetic for the next change. But my curiosity wants to see what happens with the Magnatec and I want to know why its not in fully synthetic for all weights. |
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17th Aug 2015 3:00am |
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ebajema Member Since: 24 Mar 2011 Location: New Plymouth Posts: 4782 |
Apparently Magnatec has a special additive that makes old seals soft again and seal properly. My dad didn't believe it but tried it on his old Rover and it actually worked. Maybe the additive does something to the Vanos that delays the inevitable . MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
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17th Aug 2015 7:27am |
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Zirconblue Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 1277 |
You can buy the additive separately.
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17th Aug 2015 7:47am |
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miggit Member Since: 12 Jul 2014 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 3657 |
Just an FYI for UK members, I was in Asda at the weekend and noticed that they had Castrol Magnatec 5w30 C3 on offer at £21.00 per can, I didn't pay it a great deal of attention as I need 5w40 for my TD6 Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
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17th Aug 2015 7:59am |
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doclees Member Since: 24 Jun 2015 Location: PA Posts: 672 |
Thank guys, what awful oil and petrol prices you have over there. I just got 5 quarts with a purolator classic oil filter for $24 US. I change the filter every 3k miles about and fully synthetics every 10k miles. So even if I only run this batch 5k miles I'm not out much. |
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17th Aug 2015 2:32pm |
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johnboyairey Member Since: 11 Jan 2013 Location: surrey Posts: 2032 |
if you still have vanos rattle on start up, then you might only need to renew the vanos solenoid non-return valves, they are behind the vanos solenoids, there is a small valve behind these removable solenoids, , these stick, and the oil runs back. On start up, they are then filled with oil from pump etc. and vanos goes 'quiet' they are only about £5 each i think. i did mine when i did the whole vanos job, but im sure you only need a deep socket to unscrew each vanos, and new solenoid oil seals and the return valves, at same time. it might only take an hour if the mech. has done it before....cant be sure, but im sure they are do-able without all the teardown in the link.
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17th Aug 2015 3:43pm |
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doclees Member Since: 24 Jun 2015 Location: PA Posts: 672 |
Here is what Castrol said:
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17th Aug 2015 8:25pm |
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RR P38 Member Since: 12 Oct 2013 Location: Sydney Posts: 215 |
Fully synthetic oils have a significantly longer service life, Magnatec is really a middle of the road oil in terms of shear strength and high temperature stability.......you can do worse by your engine though. Castrol edge is on the next rung up the ladder. Synthetic oils have much lower viscosity, which allows the engine to run more freely ie less drag or windage caused by the oil interfering with the crank as it spins plus all the other rotating parts. As temperature increases Synthetic maintains its viscosity very well, your engine has very tight operating tolerances between moving parts, bearings etc. Newer engines have smaller oil galleries. If you run a mineral oil like 25w 50 it wont flow through those galleries as quickly it will bog the engine down with windage in the sump, and all those chains driving the 4 cam shafts will be sucking efficiency from the engine. And when the engine gets to operating temperature, which is very high compared to the design specs for a mineral oil, the oil life is greatly reduced it looses its ability to keep all those moving parts away from each other. (wear) The first number on the oil as in 10w 30 is the ease of flow for the oil (viscosity) when cold, low is good for cold start conditions. The second number is the viscosity at a given operating temperature pretty sure its 100c. Stick with the recommended oil specs for your climate having said that 95% of the world is covered by 10w 30 for your engine. I like the solenoid recommendation that has been posted. |
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18th Aug 2015 1:24am |
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doclees Member Since: 24 Jun 2015 Location: PA Posts: 672 |
Thanks, I found a great refresher on the amsoil site. I was under the impression that a 5W30 meant that it flows like a 5 weight but lubricants like a 30 weight. I now understand that a 5W30 is tested to flow like a 5 weight at a specified Winter temp and tested to perform like a 30 weight at 100c. Never knew the W was for Winter.
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18th Aug 2015 3:03am |
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ebajema Member Since: 24 Mar 2011 Location: New Plymouth Posts: 4782 |
From what I have seen of the Vanos system the check valves don't give any faults. I would follow the suggestion above and replace them as it seems a very common fault so a cheap way to see if you can prevent future damage MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
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18th Aug 2015 10:57am |
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Zirconblue Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 1277 |
Yeah the W is for winter. Any oil labelled as a **W** is a multigrade oil. Back in the day people used to change to a thicker oil in summer and a thinner one in winter, multigrade did away with that.
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18th Aug 2015 12:24pm |
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doclees Member Since: 24 Jun 2015 Location: PA Posts: 672 |
Just checked with PO. New solenoids but he, as I did, thought the check valve was part of the solenoid. Oh boy an new project. |
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18th Aug 2015 1:35pm |
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