Hi all, I'm plotting and scheming again

I have just got a Mercedes Sprinter Jack, at the bargain price of a tenner (missing handle - and? I have bars), but it has the top for a beam axle, like the P38 / Discovery jacks. Now it is well documented on here that one will require a BMW jack adapter, and a wee bit of tinkering to get a working jack that is SAFE.

In my usual style of 'how much ' , and 'I could do that cheaper' (Scottish up bringing ), I am beginning to hatch a plot that involves making a 'Solid Billet Aluuuminuum' adapter to replace the 'V' sitting on the top of the jack Sorry I will now translate, a lump of ally to sit on the top of the jack and locate in the jacking points

I have trawled the pages of the great bay of fleas, and found that you can either get a rubber one for a fiver or an ally one for £25+ and it will still need to be machined to work. Rubber, I have no confidence in at all, would need to be supported by a metal plate, and then you are increasing the height before you start, and it may not fit under the car, when it has a flat, D'OH!! Great idea for a trolley jack, but not much cop for the Merc bottle jack.

So we are left with the £25 + postage option, OUCH!

So I have been talking to a stockholder that I occasionally deal with, and I can get solid aluminium bar that is 30 mm by 20 mm by 2000 mm I only want 55 mm. Can you guess what's next?????????


There is in fact enough to make 30 adapters, I am more than happy to feed them through my Mill (very big drill, but better) and put the holes in the right place, so all you'd have to do is knock out the roll pin, swap the tops over and tap the roll pin back in And all for a fiver, providing that there are enough takers...... failing that any one want a bit of slightly used ally bar 1945 mm long... do you a deal  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

is this the kinda thing you want to do?

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic14177....inter+jack ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

http://www.disco4.com/forum/topic89625.htm...p;start=90


A lot of chat on the D4 forum about the sprinter jacks. I thought they found a 'washer' to sit on it to make it flatter. Can't find the link directly but the Disco boys like them.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/shop/sprinter-jack-washer-kit-p53.html

For sale on disco shop. Is this what you are looking for?

How about this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Kart-S...1e7e114d24
Or try http://www.rapidmetals.co.uk they will do small bits and off cuts a good prices.

I'll be interested if you end up making some  Regards
Mark

2012 Westminster
GONE - 2007 Java Black FF Vogue, with Ivory interior

In the end I wouldn't use one. They aren't really rated for the use of a disco, ssrr or ff and a few have had them fail iirc.

I went for a 20t jobby off eBay and a 5t trolley Jack so well covered and the bottle Jack is a 3stage unit that more than copes with an ff at full extended height 😄 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

^^

Just how heavy is your FFRR? Mine is 2.6 tons, the jack is rated at 2.6 tons So unless your trying to balance the whole car on the jack with all 4 wheels off the ground, the most it will be lifting is 1.3 tons. But the reality is you should never lift much more than a quarter of the 2.6 ton weight.

Stan, Yes But without all the fancy round bit that does nothing and costs £20 to make

As for the washer kit I would be wary, I think that you might find that the Ford designed (D3/RRS) might have a different type of jacking point, cos if you were to use that on my ffrr it would end up punching a hole in the sill

Without digging my jack out, from what I can gather the pad needs to be 30 mm x 55 mm, and approximately 14 mm high. I am looking to make a block that is 20 mm high, it will represent the top of the LR scissor lift jack, and just sit in the jacking point, and not load the sill in any way. The only reason that the original BMW adapters are round at the bottom is they are designed to be used with a trolley jack, which has a cup  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

The top horn is very easy to file and either to weld on a plate like what I did or just place it on, jacks the car up a treat, BTW Paul the part you posted arrived today  Geoff

When you Jack the rear id say more like 500kg is on each wheel and more like 800kg possibly more up front, but having a jack that is rated well above the ff total weight makes lifting of it a sinch.

IMO the sprinter jacks aren't upto anything more than an emergency change, just the same as the tinfoil one that is in the boot of most ff's.

I'd be happy to trust either of my jacks to lift the whole front of one if it has a mantec sump guard as I know first hand they can take it and more 😉 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Parts I hope ! Geoff

Not sure about welding to the prongs..looks as if its cast.. might be iron instead of steel not sure I'd want to take the chance. All I'm thinking of making is a solid block that's the same as the scissor jack, and replaces the horns on the Merc jack, still using the same roll pin. I could machine it out of a bit of steel plate that I have, but it's 2" thick, weighs a ton and is destined for a twin caliper conversion on my Wrangler, if I ever find the time. I was rather hoping that a few peps might be interested, so that I can just buy a bar and have it cut to length  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

If I have to Jack up my ffrr I use my 2.5 ton rocket lift trolley jack, but if I'm driving down the road and find myself in a situation where I have to jack the car up, it would only be to change the wheel, cos anything else can wait until I'm home and I can use the trolley jack. There is No way I am going to smash the rear of my ffrr up carrying a trolley jack around, although I could tow it

Can I state peoples, the only thing that a Sprinter jack is safe for is changing a wheel, it will perform slightly better that the pressed tin joke that came from the factory, and is a lot quicker in operation. If you are doing any thing else, use a trolley jack, that is rated at least 2.5 tons, and use axle stands DO NOT RELY ON JUST THE JACK. Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Miggit just put your old school woodwork skills to the test and make it from wood, it's soft so won't damage the soft plastic pads on the ff either 👍 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Did I not just read the figure of 800 KG.... I'm not going to try and lift that with a few splinters and a pin that's not much more than 1/2" round, that's a recipe for extra drain holes in the sill  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Nah, a small 1/2" thick piece of wood with the correct size circle indented into already would be fine, at worst the wood will just compress.

I've used old bits of mahogany on mine and other cars but anything should do other than balsa wood lol FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.