Having to jump start the small Fiat that i tow behind the Motorhome from the FFRR, what are the best jumping points on it i know where the positive connection on the FFRR body is , but is there one like it for the earth instead of going direct to the battery as it can be a bit of a tight squeeze attaching a jump lead to it ......

the negative is a nut on the top of the strut and the positive is en-cased in a plastic box right by the strut/bulkhead...i know the FFRR has a hefty battery but its always better to have the doner cars engine running.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

RTFM? 

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

RTFM?

ROFL.

Oh, and thanks for changing your avatar, Mick. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

RTFM?

Would if i could find the F g thing in the process of major re-decoration and the other half has put it somewhere safe that friggin safe she can't remember ........

@SteveMFr ........ so what was wrong with the avatar !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mick,
I wouldn't use the RR for jumping anything... If you could, put it on charge. If its a regular thing, could you fit a trickle charger into the wiring system of the Motorhome so it charges the Fiat when you are hooked up to the mains.

The problem with jumping with the first car running is that when the second car starts, you've effectively got two alternators running together and it is not good for them. It probably has less potential for damage if you leave the RR off as the Fiat shouldn't take much to crank...

DC

taken from the AA site.

Step by step

Before connecting any leads make sure the vehicles are the same voltage and that they're parked with their handbrakes on and ignition off. The vehicles must not touch as this can cause sparks or an explosion.

1. Use the red jump lead to connect the positive terminal of the donor vehicle's good battery to the positive terminal of the flat battery.
2. Then use the black lead to connect the negative terminal of the good battery to a suitable earthing point on the engine or chassis of the other vehicle. This earthing point must be away from the battery and fuel system.
3. With both leads connected wait three minutes for the voltages to equalise before starting either engine.
4. Start the engine of the donor car and allow it to run for a minute then, with it still running, start the engine of the other car and leave both running at a fast idle for ten minutes. Do not remove the jump leads while the engines are running as this can cause serious damage to the electronics on either car.

If the jump leads get hot, then avoid a possible fire by switching off both engines and allowing the leads to cool.
5. Turn off the ignition on both cars and then disconnect the leads carefully in the reverse order to the way that they were connected. Be careful not to touch the clips against each other or against the car bodywork.
6. Start the car that had the dead battery using its own battery power. If it won't start this could indicate a more serious problem with the charging/ignition system that will need investigating by a professional.

 ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

If I recall the manual cautions about jump-starting directly from the battery due the pyrotechnic cutoffs on earlier models - post 07(ish) the pyros were changed to a cleverer system that allows some systems to work in a crash.
Kind regards,
Ed '96 Volkswagen Polo 1.4CL - SOLD
'00 Audi A3 1.8T - SOLD
'97 Lotus Esprit V8 - SOLD
'03 BMW M3 - SOLD
'93 Range Rover 3.9 Vogue SE - SOLD
'92 Peugeot 205 GRD - DIED
'99 BMW 540i Touring - SOLD
'94 Peugeot 405 GDRT - SOLD
'00 Peugeot 406 HDI estate - 63mpg! - SOLD
'08 Range Rover TDV8 Vogue SE - SOLD
'11 Skoda Fabia Greenline II - 94.2mpg!- SOLD
'07 E61 BMW 530d msport touring - SOLD
‘20 Tesla Model 3 SR+
‘20 Tesla Model 3 Performance

MICK wrote:

@SteveMFr ........ so what was wrong with the avatar !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hmmm, I dunno, maybe I enjoy looking at RR fronts more than ZOMBIES?
 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

it was a statue ........

Anyhow thanks for the info guys , cannot get the Fiat bonnet open to jump start friggin cable snapped ,

Fix it again, Tony?  
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Just for fun, try getting the leads mixed up! Lovely smell of melting plastic and red hot glowing metal. The FFRR survived, as did the MX5

Disclaimer: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME (or anywhere else!) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Why not use the engine battery from the motorhome rather than risking expensive damage to the RR's electronics - unless the caravan's battery is also iffy.................... 2018 Mini Countryman Cooper S E All4 PHEV in Melting Silver - it’s whisper quiet in EV and polluter modes

Motorhome too far from the wee fiat , plus too much hassle to get them in position .......

If you are worried about the RR electronics why not invest in a power pack. About £100 will get you a decent one and for that price you will be able to charge it off of 12V in the motorhome... 06MY 4.4 V8 Autobiography Cairns Blue with Navy & Parchment Interior