Craig, it appears to have a sprung loaded catch, so it should require more than a knock, the sump cover will also stop you coming in to contact (I think, not too familiar with bowls of the beast ), and what sort of Muppet is going to thrash around under the drain tap that they have fitted ? Surly that's asking for it ?
That would be the same as turning a garden hose on and then looking down the open end to see where the water is.......... You would get what you deserved, , probably followed by a Banana  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

The plug is tight wealy, I wouldn't even consider it if it wasn't as I don't want to be in a world of 😳 2004 RR 4.4 V8 Autobiography

miggit wrote:

Craig, it appears to have a sprung loaded catch, so it should require more than a knock, the sump cover will also stop you coming in to contact (I think, not too familiar with bowls of the beast ), and what sort of Muppet is going to thrash around under the drain tap that they have fitted ? Surly that's asking for it ?
That would be the same as turning a garden hose on and then looking down the open end to see where the water is.......... You would get what you deserved, , probably followed by a Banana

WOW, you really don’t work under cars too much do you

I have used these valves in various sizes over the years on industrial engines, generators etc and the are a quality addition to the servicing routine. Rest assured it would not be possible to open one of these accidentally as they have a very positive spring loaded trigger action before they can be opened. Agueroooooooooo. 93-20
I swear you will never see anything like this ever again....watch it..drink it in.

Craig, I'm getting too old to be crawling under cars every five minutes, if I had access to a ramp then it would be a different story. Although a ramp is not that necessary on my Jeep, as you can crawl under the gearbox without jacking it up, it has a good 18" clearance in the middle
Plus I've a phobia about running in to spotty techs with computers and slipping on banana skins

Pfazz, I thought that they looked well engineered, it's good to have that backed up by firsthand knowledge  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I would be very nervous to use them without first hand feedback. Thanks for that Pfazz  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Having just changed the oil and filter for the first time since I bought my FFRR in April, I too have found the sump plug has partially stripped the threads from the sump. The PO used to have the car serviced by a (local to him) LR "specialist" who seems to have used PTFE tape on the threads to help seal the plug which is the original RR/BMW plug.



Whilst the plug feels tight enough, I do want to get it sorted properly.
How easy is it to remove the part of the sump to get a helicoil insert fitted ? Can it be removed without having to take anything else off the car ?
Has anyone fitted one of the "quick valves"...they look a sensible idea and would make an oil change a lot less messy.
Thanks
David

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  2002 4.4 V8 with LPG
Zambezi silver

hat looks well & truly f******d.

I would get that sorted straight away. You can helicoil without taking the sup off if you have room.

Zambezi, buddy, I feel for you

Some ape has stripped the thread on your sump The only thing that I can think of is to get next size up plug and carefully tap the sump to suit, which will be missions. Or, for an easier semi bodge fix, get the correct size quick valve, really clean the sump around the drain hole, which I would suggest jacking up the near side to drain it, and then jacking up the off side before you clean. And then when all is clean (white glove clean), stick the new quick valve in with some JB Weld. It will probably screw in and hold but I wouldn't try and tighten it up, cos there is nothing for it to bite in to.

Personally, if it were mine, I would glue a quick valve in, a little on the thread, and a nice fillet around the whole thing to give it some strength. Oh and using some coarse sandpaper to ruff up the area would also help.

Good luck  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

A very late update to this. I will have to fix mine. Take the lower sump off - it is very easy to remove - then you can easily drill and tap out the hole for a Helicoil or for the valve mentioned earlier.

While the lower sump is off, check for bits of broken timing chain guide in the sump. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

The standard sump plugs are short putting a lot of strain on a few threads but you can get sump bolts with a longer thread as the thread in the pan is quite deep but that may already have been ruined. I drilled my old thread out and helicoiled it but you have to make sure you drill it square to the sealing face.
I’m away so don’t have the kit details but my kit had several helicoils , a drill, tap and applicator in it for about £15
As above the sump cover is very easy to remove but get a new gasket

I've been thinking how to accurately drill and tap the hole square to the sealing face.

The hole is at an angle to the body of the sump.

My thoughts are to bolt the sump cover to my drill press table then adjust and lock the table (it can be rotated and swivelled) such that the hole is dead vertical. After drilling, put the tap in the drill chuck and hand turn the tap to get it started. That might mean removing the drill press drive belts and manually turning the top pulley. Once started, release the drill chuck, fit the tap handle and complete tapping the hole. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Just how shallow is the threaded bit of the sump plug? cos if it's tapped deeper in to the sump, couldn't you just drill out the damaged threads and use an extension adapter, like this..






Or even make something similar, with a long enough nose to get you out of trouble... I can't imagine that an engineers would charge you much for such a thing, especially if it was made when there was extra time... it's amazing what you can get made for a donation to the tea money fund

That could be bonded in too as it wouldn't need to come out again  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I didn't measure the length of the thread on the plug. From memory, probably not more than 12mm. There's quite a bit of untouched thread left. I was at a friend's rural property and we couldn't find a bolt to replace the plug. It was a bit of hike into town to get a bolt or another plug so we used Teflon tape and screwed it in. I put silicone rubber around the outside to (a) further seal it and (b) to help stop the plug unscrewing.

I've ordered a Helicoil kit and will do a proper repair.

BTW, these M62 engines leak more oil than my P38A ever did! Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Just found this.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Magnetic-En...0005.m1851

It looks to have a much longer thread that 12mm, could get you out of trouble! Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!