Hello Gents

2010 4.4TDV8 8 speed 77K miles FSH well looked after etc.

Had an issue today which was a bit worrying....

Started the car from cold, drove 2 miles and turned engine off at petrol station. Filled up and switched on after 5 mins or so engine fired up all as normal except the 'N' on the TFT dash and the 'N' on the dial selector were flashing. Moved to D and again both 'D's were flashing and had no drive. Tried reverse, both 'R's flashing - no drive. Park brake engaged and disengaged correctly all other systems working engine ticking over no issue.

Cold sweat arrived.

Switched off ignition, left for 30 seconds and switched on again, all working perfectly - drove 2 miles home.

30 mins later started ok drove 20 miles switched off.

30 mins later started ok drove 3 miles switched off.

15 mins later started but issued reoccured - flashing letters and no drive. switched off left few seconds all ok and remains ok for following 2 or three journeys. Now parked safely in garage.

No errors on TFT display and no OBD trouble codes recorded.

I'm at a loss - anyone got any ideas?

Many thanks 405 AB exec seats Baltic and Cirrus
93 RR Classic efi

Remember it's easier to get forgiveness than permission!

Gone in order:
4.4 TDV8 SE - gone to a good home
93 Classic hard dash Plymouth Blue
03 L322 Oslo Blue
2000 Disco TD5 ES Epsom Green
98 P38 Rioja Red
89 Classic Cairngorm Brown

low oil or maybe a solenoid problem in the gearbox..i'd get some fault codes read.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

thanks Stan. I've plugged in the diagnostic tool and no DTC's recorded.

sounds silly I know but how do I check trans oil level - I've looked in handbook -no answer, and TFT service display only show engine oil level?

Cheers 405 AB exec seats Baltic and Cirrus
93 RR Classic efi

Remember it's easier to get forgiveness than permission!

Gone in order:
4.4 TDV8 SE - gone to a good home
93 Classic hard dash Plymouth Blue
03 L322 Oslo Blue
2000 Disco TD5 ES Epsom Green
98 P38 Rioja Red
89 Classic Cairngorm Brown

cant help there but craig [cam-tec] has one of these so he should be able to advise.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

The transmission fluid level setting procedure is similar for the 5, 6 and 8-speed ZF transmissions. Basically, before the level is set :

• Make sure the vehicle is level
• The engine must be ticking over
• Move the selector lever/rotary knob through each of the gear positions in turn and hold for a few seconds in each before returning to Park
• The fluid temperature must be between 30 and 50 deg. C

For the 8HP70 however, Land Rover specify a couple of additional steps :

• Make sure that the transmission oil has exceeded a temperature of 69 deg. C so that the thermostat has fully opened allowing full circulation of the transmission fluid. Allow the temperature to drop below 30 deg. C before checking the transmission oil level.

• Make sure that the torque converter is full of oil by holding the engine speed at 2,000 rpm for a minimum of 30 seconds.

Access to the level/filler plug on the 4.4L TDV8 looks, erm, very tight !

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

do you think the problem could be the oil level Phil ? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Due to its (relatively young) age there are very few problems reported yet with the 8HP70. I must admit that this doesn’t sound particularly like a fluid level issue to me, but it’s pretty much the only thing that owners can check for themselves.

The only two issues that I’m aware of with this transmission are problems with the rotary selector switch itself (failing to rise or turn) and oil starvation when starting from very cold (-10 deg. C and below) which was cured with a different sump design. Neither of these sound applicable in this case.

The 8HP70 is also used by Chrysler, Maserati, Rolls Royce, BMW, Jeep (it’s even in the Iveco Daily van) so there may be some further information out there on other forums. I must say that it’s very disappointing/surprising that this issue wasn’t backed up by a DTC logged in the controller.

Phil

a process of elimination then, thanks Phil  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Just to be sure, was your foot on the brake pedal and were you pressing down "hard enough"?? If it happens again, see if the rear brake lights are on (if you can see the reflection). I can imagine that if the brake switch is not engaged, the gearbox is not "allowed" to engage maybe. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

^ Many thanks to all of you for your time.

I'll do some digging about.

Cheers 405 AB exec seats Baltic and Cirrus
93 RR Classic efi

Remember it's easier to get forgiveness than permission!

Gone in order:
4.4 TDV8 SE - gone to a good home
93 Classic hard dash Plymouth Blue
03 L322 Oslo Blue
2000 Disco TD5 ES Epsom Green
98 P38 Rioja Red
89 Classic Cairngorm Brown

Worth checking the gear selector linkage?

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic18384.html

Not sure if it's the same on your model, but it fixed the issue on my previous 2006 S/C  SDV8 AB MY 2019
SDV8 VSE MY 2015 - Gone
5.0 S/C AB MY 2010 - Gone
4.2 S/C VSE MY 2006 - Gone

Am not a technical whizz (or even knowledgeable!) at all but could it be a low battery level or the gearbox ECU? apparently this is very voltage sensitive, and throws an error (M&S) lights when the voltage is detected low at start up.

apparently it is a known fault on the Disco (old versions) and is discussed here:

The following have been discussed on the AULRO website from time to time as causes of the M&S lights illuminating. Typically associated with this are the gear selector LEDs and display flashing; as well as the automatic transmission being put into ‘limp home’ mode, with only 3rd and 4th gears being selected by the ECU, to protect the transmission.

Low Battery
A low battery may cause the M&S lights to illuminate. From reading AULRO and tests others have done, this appears to occur around 11.6 volts or lower. If the battery is on the way out, then the voltage drop when starting the vehicle will be sufficient to get the M&S lights going.

Remedies
Charge the battery, check its condition and age, check the charging circuit as to why the battery is low, see if there is a high residual battery drain when the ignition is off, change the battery to an equivalent of at least OEM specification.


Gear Position Switch / XYZ Switch
BTW: This is the typically the first solution everyone suggests.
The gear position switch (inhibitor switch, xyz switch) is a leading cause, but not the only one and without diagnosis or inspection, prior to replacement, may or may not fix the fault. This is a $300 (replacement cost) choice or a couple of hours taking it off, pulling apart etc on a maybe??

See http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/1321...auses.html for more details.

hope it helps! DB

Andy B wrote:

Worth checking the gear selector linkage?

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic18384.html

Not sure if it's the same on your model, but it fixed the issue on my previous 2006 S/C

ebajema wrote:

Just to be sure, was your foot on the brake pedal and were you pressing down "hard enough"?? If it happens again, see if the rear brake lights are on (if you can see the reflection). I can imagine that if the brake switch is not engaged, the gearbox is not "allowed" to engage maybe.

Could be something as daft as a faulty brake light switch then? Mine was a blue one!