The battery always seems to settle at 12.2v. Could that be the battery that is faulty then.. I've just had it out and it started 3 times no problem.

The battery reading is definitely low especially as you are using the car. On a decent barrery the voltage should be 12.6V minimum. Your car will start quite happily with 12.2V but I certainly wouldn't rely on it.
It's difficult to know what to suggest as it may cost you money un-necessarily but your battery does appear a bit suspect particularly given your car was fitted with a new alternator not so long ago.
I have a spare 110AH battery you can borrow if you fancy a 120mile drive.

Thanks, it's looking more and more likely that a new battery is needed even though this one is less than 12 months old. Before I bought it Geoff had done the alternator, fsr etc.etc.

Did you replace the battery when you replaced the alternator? If the Alternator was spiking then it could have knackered the battery in which case it won't hold charge properly.

My 90Ah was duff after the alternator went! There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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I think everything was done at the same time while he was trying to sort the flat battery problem.

I've put it on a recon charge again and will se how it goes.

I ran the recon cycle overnight and when I checked it this morning while still connected it was showing 13.5v. When I unlocked that dropped to 12.2v.

I drove to work (3 miles) and parked up then checked it once everything had time to shut down and it's now showing 12.6v.

I'll keep my eye on it again over the next few days and see if it starts dropping to 12.2v again.

Just checked again around 1.30pm and it's still 12.6v.

In the meantime I've ordered the towing socket adaptor from the D3 forum and some heavy duty jump leads.

Day 2 - 12.3v this morning
Day 2 - 12.2v this evening. Showing 14.8v when running and 12.5v after a short run home.
Day 3 - 12.3v this morning
Day 4 - 12.2v this morning
Day 5 - 12.3v this morning after a good hours run each way on the motorway yesterday
Day 6 - 12.1v this morning

Based on the readings above I have either got a drain or the battery can't hold full power

I'm not sure which way to go now but I suppose a new battery is easiest.

Fish: Did you get a new battery in the end, and if so did it cure your problems?
I have a similar sort of story. Although I haven’t in the past had any problems, after recently flattening the battery using the IID tool and fully re-charging it, I’ve been nervous and checking regularly since . Although showing a healthy 13-14V with the engine running , it shows only around 12.2V after having been left overnight.
The battery’s just under 2 years old (guaranteed for 5, so I’m not too worried …), but I just wondered if I have a problem or not …
So, what’s your experience, please? Any other comments from this learned community would also be gratefully received! It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 7 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)

those voltage figures sound ok Steve.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Thanks, Stan.
I'm relieved to know that. I've been fretting unnecessarily, then!  It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 7 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)

I've not sorted mine yet, I've been monitoring it this week. After a few days of short journeys it seemed to settle at 12.2v but this morning was actually 12.1v. I have had a good motorway run today so will check it again tomorrow.

I'm not sure if the problem with the towing electrics has damaged anything else but as it has all the harness has been replaced I'm not sure how. it is due MOT and service so am going to get it checked again while it's in.

The more it goes on the more I am inclined to think it is a battery problem made worse by short journeys. I was doing more mileage when i first got it and the weather was not as bad so no lights and heaters on all the time.

If you've had a decent run on the motorway today your battery should now be reading 12.8-12.9V or even 13V due to surface charge.
This voltage should then decay over a couple of days and settle at 12.6-12.7V depending how long you leave it after that.
I would expect after a week for the voltage to be in the order of 12.6V, anything less means you still have a problem unfortunately.
12.1-12.2V indicates a a battery charged to about half capacity.
Have you actually checked for battery drain by inserting an ammeter in the battery -ve cable?

Thanks, nicedayforit (that’s a mouthful! (And do you really look like your Avatar?!!!)
No, I’ve not checked for battery drain. Inserting an ammeter in the battery –ve cable … oh dear! I’ll have to Google that to find out:
a) How to do it
b) What values to expect – otherwise there’s no point
So now you’ve got me fretting again!
Thanks anyway – I appreciate it. Yes, really! (For example, I have values to expect now) It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 7 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)

Last edited by bebechoon on 6th Mar 2015 5:35pm. Edited 2 times in total

Oh, sorry, that last remark by nicedayforit was maybe directed at Fish?
Never mind, it still helps me too It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 7 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)

@bebechoon
If you wish to insert an ammeter into the -ve battery cable, disconnect the cable from the battery, connect one lead of the ammeter to the battery -ve terminal and the other ammeter lead to the end of the disconnected battery -ve cable.
Do this after letting your car go to sleep.
You need an ammeter with a range upto 10A initially, once you have read the current drain, if any, you should then be able to reduce the ammeter scale to 1A or even less.
If your ammeter displays a current of more the 50mA you have a problem.
Ideally the current drain should be no more than about 25-30mA.