Oh and here's a picture of a proper engine Note the small turbo that the cheap oil lubricates at 2.2bar of boost

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Lovely...

8 injectors

On the subject of oil......one of my mates used to race a Toyota Starlet thundersaloon with a 560BHP RS500 engine and he always uses Fuchs fully synthetic (owns a performance specialist garage and uses it exclusively)

See it here: https://www.facebook.com/MVTURBOS/photos/p...mp;theater
https://www.facebook.com/MVTURBOS/photos/p...mp;theater
https://www.facebook.com/MVTURBOS/photos/p...mp;theater Stolen / Gone: 2006MY Supercharged LPG Autobiography - Zambezi Silver with Sand/Jet/Jet Oxford Leather.....

Just changed the oil and filter in my td6 this week, two 5 litre cans of Comma Syner G 5-40 fully synthetic oil £29 each genuine oil filter from Dan £16 total £74. I don't doubt I could also find good quality air and pollen filters for less than £26 so all in all £100 for the lot.
I'm more than satisfied with the quality.

CG-SC wrote:

8 injectors

On the subject of oil......one of my mates used to race a Toyota Starlet thundersaloon with a 560BHP RS500 engine and he always uses Fuchs fully synthetic (owns a performance specialist garage and uses it exclusively)

See it here: https://www.facebook.com/MVTURBOS/photos/p...mp;theater
https://www.facebook.com/MVTURBOS/photos/p...mp;theater
https://www.facebook.com/MVTURBOS/photos/p...mp;theater

Yes she's an Rs500 engine also, running 530hp. That must have been insane in a car with such little weight

Right just for clarity's sake... I am not & have NOT said that servicing your own TD6 for under £100 is un achievable nor the wrong thing to do!!!

I have simply tried to advise that there are lots of rubbish, cheap & nasty tat available to purchase from many high st stores & on line! and IMHO should not be used! You can of course buy all of your items from Dan and be assured of there quality... As is stated above...

Hopefully that clears that up!!!

i fully understand what Craig is saying, he has a company and a reputation to up hold so if he fitted a cheap part on a FF or whatever vehicle and that part went faulty then it would be a big problem for him, whereas fit a quality [more expensive] product and that scenario is of a less probability... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

I think I've got the gist of this argument, and I personally wouldn't necessarily fit Genuine parts. But I would fit OEM ( Original equipment manufacturer ), with out even thinking about it. I have so far saved thousands of quid, literally, by doing untold research in to who made what for who.
Two examples that spring to mind, New radiator, L/R £600 ish, I ordered a Hella one from a supplier, but as he had no stock I had to use a slightly more expensive OEM one from Bermark. And when I opened the box it said Hella on the rad , so the one I fitted was £190, which is over a 200% difference between genuine. But the out of stock Hella unit was £160 which around a 300% saving, I have still fitted OEM.
Then we have the compressor, genuine £600+, OEM Wabco £300, 100% saving. So in purchases I've saved over £700, by fitting OEM, and not genuine.
Now Craig is Land Rover approved, and as such, will be bound to fit only genuine parts, as to maintain the factory warranty on the vehicles that he's working on, and enabling him to stamp your service book with approved repairer status.
The simple fact of the matter is, every car manufacturer uses sub contractors to produce components for there products, if you hunt around you can find theses and save a fortune, but be warned it WILL void any warranty that the car has.
I did even manage to fit OEM OEM wiring for my tow hitch and saved even more (400% ish), and just goes to show that even the Original equipment manufacturer's have sub contractors too
Oils are pretty much a mine field, which I have yet to look into, but I will say that I mechanic friend of mine told me that the BMW diesel engine needs to special type of oil, something to do with the cats, so be careful as to what you put in. As for the 'only texaco' oil transmission argument goes, I can say that this is marketing crap. I have had my gearbox rebuilt, by a reputable builder, who has filled the box with a fully synthetic oil, of non texaco origin and then given me a warranty on the box. I haven't, as yet, found out what he's filled it with, but I have a feeling that it's D6. Which by the way is what GM put in their GM boxes, I have a feeling that they might know what's right  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Genuine Parts vs OEM...

Just to let you know that OEM and Genuine Parts are two completely different things

Yes OEM items are made by the same manufacturer as the Genuine Parts but...there is a BIG BUT to this...


OEM is not made to the Genuine Parts specifications and that is the reason it is often cheaper to buy OEM over genuine parts. OEM often use cheaper/different materials and slacker tolerances to Genuine parts specs. Worth bearing in mind when you come to buy your spares.

bearmach and britpart filters are not OEM parts either

OEM examples of filters, and should come in the supplier box
Mahle
Mann
coopers
mann You can paypal direct using - www.paypal.me/duckworthparts
Please supply your full name address when sending a paypal payment.
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My Direct Line: 01673 849873
Email: robin.hall@duckworth.co.uk
Supplier of Genuine Land Rover & Jaguar Parts For All Models

Interesting point 47p2 makes there. I wonder how much difference there is between OEM and Genuine parts from the same supplier, just out of interest. I generally install Genuine parts either through my trusted dealer in the Netherlands or via Dan at Duckworth on the critical parts (filters !!). When it comes to gearbox oil, I go for ZF only after doing a LOT of research and I just don't want to take the risk not even for 100 or 200 GBP difference (and you can find genuine ZF Lifeguard 6 for semi-decent prices but you have to look hard).

Engine oil, always to go for the best possible synthetic I can find that meets the specs (so for my 5.0 I ordered full synth oil that meets the latest and applicable JLR specs).

Plugs always the original.

Brake pads, genuine parts preferred but currently some really good brand that does not give any of the issues that Craig mentioned (if they did they would have been replaced by genuine in a heartbeat).

I have found over the many years and cars and bikes that saving on the critical parts and oil is just not worth the risk. The problem is not probability (the chance that something does go wrong) but the consequences if something does go wrong. It is like buying insurance, I have not had to claim to date, but I still buy it (apart from it being mandatory in many places, but I would buy it anyway).

I see spending the extra (and honestly I have always been able to buy genuine at slightly higher prices than OEM or after market and not big margins like Miggit is mentioning) because it makes me feel more comfortable. I have had a few minor issues with bikes/cars in the first few years of my driving/riding and I also worked in O&G for my entire life, that has taught me a few valuable lessons. In O&G the consequences are incredibly expensive so no one in their right mind takes a risk and only uses the best of the best because if you don't you are quickly talking about figures with 5 or 6 zeroes in front of the decimal point (USD), way more than the savings. In personal life that is much lower but still substantial enough to not take the risk of A. serious damage and B. being stranded.

If a car becomes cheaper (and I drove a lot of them until I started driving FFRRs), I would care less (unless it is a classic) and would go for OEM more easy but with my FFRR, genuine on critical parts and OEM where it is less critical. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Could a list of OEM manufacturers for service items be placed in the Wiki? Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

Cam-Tech-Craig wrote:

I have simply tried to advise that there are lots of rubbish, cheap & nasty tat available to purchase from many high st stores & on line! and IMHO should not be used!

Advice greatfully appreciated Craig.

duckworthparts wrote:

bearmach and britpart filters are not OEM parts either

OEM examples of filters, and should come in the supplier box
Mahle
Mann
coopers
mann

But Britpart and Bearmach both sell OEM filters

When it comes to servicing, I use nothing but OEM