Having faffed around for ages over what to do with my rear brake lines which are corroded under the plastic cover running parallel to the near side sill, I am seeking some guidance.

I bought the genuine coated steel LR pipes not realising that you need to dismantle the rear sub frame to fit them. Having been through the threads and wiki on here, I have decided to cut the Lr replacements just in front of the rear wheel arch, fit the pipes and then reconnect them with a connector.

My question is about the brake pipe size as I need to buy the correct fitting to reconnect the pipes where I have cut them I think they are 3/16 OD and I have checked them with my vernier which suggest approximately 4.8 mm. Therefore, I propose to put a double flare on them with with 3/16 flaring tool and them connect them with electroplated fittings.

Can anyone confirm the correct pipe size and appropriate fitting materials? 2014 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography & 2015 3.0SDV6 HSE Lux Discovery 4
2005 4.2 Supercharged Vogue SE & 2011 3.0SDV6 HSE Discovery 4
2002 4.4 Vogue
2000 4.6 Vogue
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE
2009 Freelander 2 TD4.e 2009
1992 Mercedes 300D
1986 Renault 2.1 Turbo D
1976 Morris Marina 1.8

Yep, standard size brake pipe 4.8mm.... standard joiner, just make sure you use the correct single or double flare for the joiner... The steel original pipes are a pain to flare when still on the car, if you can, unclip a good couple of feet and have it hanging down so you have good access to the end.... Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thank you. Very useful. Clearly I should flare the pipe on the bench before I fit it. 2014 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography & 2015 3.0SDV6 HSE Lux Discovery 4
2005 4.2 Supercharged Vogue SE & 2011 3.0SDV6 HSE Discovery 4
2002 4.4 Vogue
2000 4.6 Vogue
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE
2009 Freelander 2 TD4.e 2009
1992 Mercedes 300D
1986 Renault 2.1 Turbo D
1976 Morris Marina 1.8

That is why I bought the copper type,put the flaring on first then just bent to shape and easy to thread through !

You can't flare the end of the one you cut on the car, on the bench... hence the tip..... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I would have bought copper if I had thought this through properly.

I have not fitted the new LR ones yet. I plan to cut and flare them first based on advice above. Then strip off old pipes, fit the new pipes then connect them up. 2014 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography & 2015 3.0SDV6 HSE Lux Discovery 4
2005 4.2 Supercharged Vogue SE & 2011 3.0SDV6 HSE Discovery 4
2002 4.4 Vogue
2000 4.6 Vogue
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE
2009 Freelander 2 TD4.e 2009
1992 Mercedes 300D
1986 Renault 2.1 Turbo D
1976 Morris Marina 1.8

HI. You don't need to drop the sub frame at all, my rear lines failed last week and I replaced all of the hard lines on the car. I bought oem lines, they cost about £18 each. The drivers side rear was tricky but can be carefully manipulated into position without bending past the point of failure. I was fortunate to have a twin post car ramp but the job could have been done without. The job took me just under half a day for all of the lines.

The corrosion was mainly under the plastic cover BUT the section behind the subframe was also severely corroded, I could only see this once removed. I'd advise all of your hard lines are replaced. The OEM ones came powder coated and should last for another 10 years.

if you are buying brake pipe, look for the 'kunifer' type. its nickle plated copper. so it wont go green. it looks silver for ages too. and it easier to bend. best to bend it to rough shape first. put some tape over the end, so it stays cean till its flared or screwed.
had my old p38 rear pipe go, on the move. -right over the top of the subframe. but was do-able without 'frame removal. (whole pipe)

have a few practice flares first. use a fine junior hacksaw to nip off the very end part if it goes wrong. use the old nut. you know it fits!

i think it's actually a Copper/Nickel/iron (CuNiFer) alloy, rather than plated. The nickel and iron are there to make it more flexible and stop it from going brittle.

i stand corrected, go to the top of the class, Top-boy, and leave your apple on his desk as you pass.
i thought it had a weird name...

To be honest until i googled it to double check i was right, i'd been spelling it with a K like you, i hadn't realised the name was the actual chemical formula.

I think some of it is more copper coloured, and some is more silvery (nickel), it depends on the make up the individual manufacturer uses.

It is better to work with than pure copper though, much easier to flare.

Sure the OP has already found this, but just in case

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic25799.html .
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MG Midget Mk1 1962

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I went for the very lazy option and used Goodridge braded hoses with the protective fire coating on them. If everything is under control you are not going fast enough.

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