Hi guys, my DPF ful warning light came on last night, searched the forum for info but did not find any info about this for the 3,6.
I know the book says go to dealer but is there any way to solve this myself?
My nearest LR shop is almost a days drive away, Is it dangerous to drive the car as is?
It's a 2010 with 90000km on the clock, only short trips has been made with the car the last month (15min)
Could this be the reason for not self cleaning the filter good enough?
Thanks  2010MY TDV8 Vogue Nara bronze / Arabica, Ivory. VW Amarok 2013 180 auto
Swedish LR club member #5333

Just had this on my 4.4 TDV8 caused by my "reduced performance" being driven for a couple of days and was told by a dealer the DPF regeneration procedure was 55mph or more for a minimum of 25 mins i.e. A good blast along a motorway!

I was also advised to do it asap after the dpf full message or its a trip to the dealer and more expense.

Needs a good blast for at least 20-30 mins at motorway speeds to get it up to temp and burn off the deposits!

Dont keep driving it slowly! There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Hi,

I had a Jaguar S-type diesel some years ago, also fitted with DPF. Altough the DPF is a horror in my opinion it does give you an extra advantage above non ftted cars: you have to drive the car extra long/higher revs and it makes you happy in a Jaguar or a RR
So to go short: yes you must regularly drive the car for some 20 mins on highway speed and than you shouldn't have any problems with DPF. In the event of a full DPF the Jag had first an orange light come on and that's when you can cure with the highway blast. If you ignored it then you get the red one and that's a hard fault which meant that it has to be regenerated by the dealer's computer. Don't now if a FF has the same two way warning system. But to avoid this: regularly drive it longer trips with higher revs (over 2200 RPM)!
How to now if the engine is regenerating? My Jaguar was a very smooth engine but when regenerating it was a bit rough on idle: never stop the engine in that occasion! The next time you start again the regeneration process starts from the beginning and that is a very bad thing. The regeneration is done by the computer by injecting a bit of extra fuel at the end of each firing stroke. This produces extra heat in the exhaust but at the cost of too much diluting the oil in the cylinders. So, when and if you can detect a regeneration process: never stop the car but go for an extra ride!


Good luck!

To ad on this: you don't need to drive at higher speeds (altough it is the easyst way) because the revs is producing the extra needed heat. This means that you can drive easliy trough town for 20 mins or so but you MUST keep revs over 2200 RPM, this doing by using the manual shift option

Thanks gents, love this forum  2010MY TDV8 Vogue Nara bronze / Arabica, Ivory. VW Amarok 2013 180 auto
Swedish LR club member #5333

Another reason to go for a good V8 petrol, especially if you are doing a lot of short distances.

Took it for a 15min drive over 2200rpm and problem solved  2010MY TDV8 Vogue Nara bronze / Arabica, Ivory. VW Amarok 2013 180 auto
Swedish LR club member #5333

Power of the forum again  GONE 2010 Facelifted 3.6 TDV8 - Stornoway Grey + 22" Overfinch Olympus
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