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McSwerve



Member Since: 20 Jan 2010
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 25

Using a Trolley Jack

Any advice regarding jacking points for a trolley jack.

I’m doing the rear pads this weekend, and haven’t had a good look underneath as yet.

Also points for the axle stands.
Cheers chaps
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Post #19791 10th Jun 2010 11:45am
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daveo



Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: london
Posts: 2307

United Kingdom 2004 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Java Black

hi, just done my ones,plus disc and hand brake shoes... i found the best place was at the end of the sus arm near the shock mount, the arm is at its widest, once up get a axel stand under it to be safe, remember you will need to release the hand brake if changing the disc, i would have a spare pad sensor just encase. found them very easy to do, don't forget your copperslip ..
daveo V8 facelift Range Rover Autobiography 22" wheels.
1976 Harley Davidson Iron Head Sportster

Post #19806 10th Jun 2010 3:26pm
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dan_uk_1984



Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Tonga Green

I always use a very thick plank of wood on the jack to spread the load when working on the back. Mine has teeth though so I dont want it to dent the arms.

D 

Post #19809 10th Jun 2010 4:23pm
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daveo



Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: london
Posts: 2307

United Kingdom 2004 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Java Black

hi, yes good point, my jack has the hard rubber pad. just to add i was told not to lift it under the diff, even know that it would look to be a good place, not sure if thars right. V8 facelift Range Rover Autobiography 22" wheels.
1976 Harley Davidson Iron Head Sportster

Post #19833 10th Jun 2010 6:53pm
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Gazellio @ Prestige Cars



Member Since: 22 Jan 2010
Location: Chilterns, UK
Posts: 11309

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover SE Td6 Zermatt Silver

daveo wrote:
hi, just done my ones,plus disc and hand brake shoes... i found the best place was at the end of the sus arm near the shock mount, the arm is at its widest, once up get a axel stand under it to be safe, remember you will need to release the hand brake if changing the disc, i would have a spare pad sensor just encase. found them very easy to do, don't forget your copperslip ..
daveo


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Post #19836 10th Jun 2010 7:06pm
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dan_uk_1984



Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Tonga Green

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Post #19839 10th Jun 2010 7:35pm
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McSwerve



Member Since: 20 Jan 2010
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 25

Thanks for the info and tips.

Now all I need is the parts to turn up from Paddocks!

I'll let you know how I get on.

Post #19868 11th Jun 2010 11:44am
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JMC



Member Since: 01 Feb 2009
Location: Aberdeen-Angus
Posts: 755

Scotland 2012 Range Rover Westminster TDV8 Orkney Grey

So how did you get on?........

I did the rear pads on my TDV8 yesterday and I fail to see why anyone would pay a stealer to do such an easy job. Literally 10 mins each side from start to finish and the most difficult part is routing the (new) cable for the sensor wire on the O/S inner pad to the connection box which is up, under the inner wheel arch plastic. There is no sensor wire on the N/S rear brakes.

Loosen wheel nuts a quarter turn.
Car to off road height.
Trolley jack at the base of the air-spring and raise - only slightly.
Wheel off.
Push brake piston fully home by (carefully & gently) inserting suitable levering implement between disc and (inside) pad.
Undo 2 x 13mm bolts on the calliper and remove floating calliper. A 15mm open ended spanner will be required here to prevent the floating calliper tube from turning on itself as you undo the 13mm bolts.
Rest the removed calliper gently on the wishbone to avoid stressing the rubber brake line.
Take the old pads out & prise the old pad retainers out.
Open LR Genuine parts box.
Copper grease appropriate parts and then refit new pad retainers along with new pads.
Refit (new) 13mm bolts supplied with OEM parts.
Refit road wheel and torque appropriately.

Sorted!! Razz The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom Smile

Post #20726 21st Jun 2010 10:53am
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daveo



Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: london
Posts: 2307

United Kingdom 2004 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Java Black

there you go and dont you fill better for doing that...i know when i done my front and back i gave it a good clean under there and when finished i know it was done properly.. V8 facelift Range Rover Autobiography 22" wheels.
1976 Harley Davidson Iron Head Sportster

Post #20754 21st Jun 2010 4:03pm
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McSwerve



Member Since: 20 Jan 2010
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 25

Sorry for the delay, just had a great week away.

Rear pads were a doddle. As you say why pay a dealer for these sort of things.

However there's still a lot of squeeling going on. I need to a do a bit of further investigation. There was no sign of much copper slip on the rears, so I'll take the front wheel off for a look.

Post #21147 26th Jun 2010 10:01pm
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M44K TS



Member Since: 09 Feb 2010
Location: North East U.K.
Posts: 1325

England 

Does everyone just use a 2 tonne trolley jack? 2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

Post #21152 26th Jun 2010 10:45pm
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daveo



Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: london
Posts: 2307

United Kingdom 2004 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Java Black

hi, my one is a 3 ton but if you are only lifting one corner i would think thats ok, could only be a ton at the most on the front corners but i would invest in a pair of good axel stands,better safe then sorry..saying that and looking at the pics,dan uses a 2 ton jack. V8 facelift Range Rover Autobiography 22" wheels.
1976 Harley Davidson Iron Head Sportster

Post #21158 27th Jun 2010 8:50am
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M44K TS



Member Since: 09 Feb 2010
Location: North East U.K.
Posts: 1325

England 

I bought a 3 tonne one just to be sure, plus it's handy if I ever need to use it on my van, was just curious really. 2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

Post #21161 27th Jun 2010 11:48am
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