we know the problems that jump starting the FF can cause, and so is frowned upon.
my Porsche Cayenne died yesterday...
its the early morning cold short school runs with all heated seats at full blast, fan full blast, heated steering wheel etc.

the porsche can be jump started without any issues because it has a Battery Regulator Module.

can any one enlighten me if a Battery Regulator Module can be bought of the shelf and retro fitted so then no worries about jump starts? i presume a 12v + jump start voltage would be universal issue/problem?
thanks 2011 4.4 TdV8 Nara Bronze

Hi there, sorry to hijack your post, but why is jump starting a no no on FFRR?

Cheers. Paul

Added- forget that, seen another post with reasons given...ta. P

TBH, never had any problems jump starting to or from the FFRR, one just has to follow the correct routine as indicated in the handbook. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

+1

I was thinking the same thing

As long as you're careful, there shouldn't be a problem - it's about getting a good clean connection - that should then be a nice smooth electricity supply - a dodgy connection makes for a spiky supply which is what does for the electrics.

i have been told by both RR dealer and indie that the ECU's can become damaged due to surges/spikes in the supply.
lots about it in the BMW forums.
i have been told that these faults are then stored and can then throw up gremlins such are engine management lights/ suspension fault lights later on.
may be i have been caught up in urban myths.
but then porsche puts battery modulators and specifically say not to connect battery direct to jumps leads to prevent spikes.. 2011 4.4 TdV8 Nara Bronze

a gimmick?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-5M-ANTI-S...5d3714282f


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Booster-cables-c...0550532191 2011 4.4 TdV8 Nara Bronze

I'm not really sure what sort of "surge" these jump leads are protecting against.
Surely the maximum voltage "surge" is no more than either 12.6V or 14.5V depending on whether a battery or vehicle is used for a jump start
Just because you short a lead to earth doesn't mean you get any more than the vehicle voltage, it's just the resulting spark looks impressive.
Given that the vehicles are designed to accept 14.5V, probably plus a bit more, as the norm, I can't see a problem with jump starting a FFRR or using it to jump start another vehicle.
The important thing, as has been high-lighted above, is to connect the leads in the correct order to both vehicles.
IMO "Anti-surge" jumps leads are indeed no more than a gimmick.

Funny that as land rover assist have jump started my l322 and Sports in the past and no issues
And the FFRR 2010 on also has a BRM as did the sport from 2007 Far to many gone...

if you follow the instructions in the owners manual you shouldn't have any problems.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

great,
forum concensus says OK to jump start 2011 4.4 TdV8 Nara Bronze

Hi goldsax and here is the standard jump-start procedure, for any vehicles, not just an RR.

The correct procedure for jump starting a vehicle is as follows.

Bring the donor vehicle as close as practical to the crippled vehicle.

Leave the motor running in the donor vehicle at all times.

Many vehicles can draw quite high currents with the ignition key still in the switch ( up to 40 amps ).

Turn the ignition off and remove the kew from the ignition of the crippled vehicle. This is not done to protect the vehicle’s electronics, this is done to remove any remaining current draw from the crippled vehicle’s battery.

Note, in many new vehicles, not until you remove the ignition key will all current loads be turned off and in some vehicles, like new Land Rovers, the computers will remain active for up to 3 minutes, while they go through shut-down routines, after the key is removed.

Next, connect the positive lead to the crippled vehicle’s positive battery terminal, then connect the other end of the positive lead to the donor vehicle’s positive battery terminal.

Then connect one end of negative lead to the donor vehicle battery’s negative terminal.

Now find a suitable earthing point in the crippled vehicle’s engine bay ( if the cranking battery is located there ). This earthing point should be a bolt or something of that nature.

Do not use any body parts as the earthing point.

Leave the vehicles connected with the donor vehicle’s motor running at a high idle, for at least 2 minutes but 5 would be better.

Whether the crippled vehicle’s battery is flat or stuffed, it will still hold a surface charge, even if that is for just a few minutes. When jump starting a vehicle, you don’t need it to hold that surface charge for more than a few seconds.

So by letting the donor vehicle idle for a while, when you try to start the crippled vehicle’s motor, the donor vehicle is not trying to start the motor and charge the crippled battery at the same time. This means less electrical stress on both vehicles.

Once some time has elapsed, try starting the crippled vehicles motor.

If it does not start straightaway, turn the crippled vehicle’s ignition switch off and remove the key and give the crippled battery more charging time.

If the motor starts, remove the negative lead from both vehicles, then remove the positive.

By applying the negative lead last and removing the negative lead first, if you drop either end of the negative lead and it comes in contact with any body work or the motor, there will not be a short.

Then when removing the positive lead, again, as there no longer a closed ( negative ) circuit, you will not cause a short.

DO NOT switch the crippled vehicle’s motor off to test the crippled vehicles battery. If you are in the middle of nowhere and your motor is now running, don’t tempt fate.

A WORD OF WARNING, under no circumstance do you ever remove either or both cranking battery terminal clamps from the cranking battery while the motor is running.

This is the one time when you can do serious harm to your alternator and/or vehicle’s electronics. 2007 TDV8 Lux

comprehensive write up.. 2011 4.4 TdV8 Nara Bronze

drivesafe wrote:

A WORD OF WARNING, under no circumstance do you ever remove either or both cranking battery terminal clamps from the cranking battery while the motor is running.

This is the one time when you can do serious harm to your alternator and/or vehicle’s electronics.

What does that mean in English ?

Is the cranking battery the good one ?
So if I give someone a jump start - once they are started, I should stop my own engine before disconnecting ?

I was actually told that you're supposed to stop both vehicles before disconnecting - but as other advice is that the newly started car should be kept running - I go with leaving them both running.

That said, I also use Anderson connectors on my cars, so the connections are as good as you can reasonably get & disconnecting is quick and clean.

It's the spiky voltages that come with poor connections that do the damage, not the change in voltage.

Hi Alistair and sorry I should have replied sooner.

The only time I have come across damaged electronics after a jump start is on two separate occasions when the owner of the vehicle with the faulty battery has tried to swap the faulty cranking battery with a replacement battery, while the motor was still running.

I have no idea why they did what they did but in both cases, they stuffed their alternators.

As to “spiky voltages”, you do not create voltage spikes while jump starting.

You will often see sparks when connecting or disconnecting jumper leads but this is not caused by voltage spikes but is simply CURRENT arcing as the clamps make or break contact.

When disabled vehicles suffer some form of problem after jump starting, the problem was NOT caused while jump starting, it is caused when you first tried to start the vehicle using the disabled battery.

What happens is, you get into your vehicle, turn the ignition key on and while the battery may be flat, it will in most cases still have enough power to get the vehicles different computers starting.

You continue to turn the key ( press the start button ) to turn the motor over.

It is at this point that all the problems are created and it’s not because of voltage spike but the exact revers. For a second or two, when you’re trying to start the motor, the current drain on the already low battery causes a huge voltage drop and this in turn, starves the computers.

If the computer is part the way though a routine, which it will most like be as you have only just powered it up, the voltage drop can cause the computer to freeze, just to an unrelated routine or any of a dozen other irregular operations.

This sort of problem is very commonplace, and not just in vehicle computers.

In most new vehicle computers, there is usually some form of COPS ( Computer Operating Properly Subroutine ) which will force the computer to reset or reboot.

For safety reasons, this COPS programming may only come into full effect once the vehicle’s ignition is turned off and then the computers are reset during the shutdown period.

There is also the problem of still having a stuffed or very low battery causing continuing problems but none of these relate to the actual jump start itself, jump starting is just blamed because the problems coincided with the jump start. 2007 TDV8 Lux

well done on a great reply..
it clears a lot of urban myths up for me ...
and going by other posts on this thread re. the professional way to hook up, wait, crank,disconnect .
we will be jump starting in the correct manner 2011 4.4 TdV8 Nara Bronze