axle wrote:

To be honest I never really thought about it and a month ago I moved to Western Australia so now I'll need to think more about extreme heat .

Come on Axle, it can be pretty cold there. I remember days where I had to wear a jacket outside

I have to admit that I used the seat heater and steering wheel heater here when the temp dropped to 22 C last rainy season  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Wow - brilliant pics. Thanks.

Eugene
Tell me about it almost put long pants on today but come on seat heaters at 22c you need to man up
Mind you every one here tells me I'll be bitching about the cold by next year  2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Don't forget their primary role is to warm the cabin when parked but when moving to heat the engine.

The killer is the battery drain from them, so if you ran it for the full 30minutes there should be just enough juice to start it but I'd look at getting one of Martins two socket power cables and hookup a strong charger to it so that most of the juice is still coming from the mains and not the cars battery.

Also I think the heater matrix circuit is kept separate from the engine circuit until the engine starts or a certain water temperature is reached but the rave docs would probably have more detailed info. A 0w oil would be your best bet as well to help cold cranking and if it's stored in a garage while this is all happening don't forget the to be honest puts out fumes from the burnt fuel so would need to be ventilated.

A car muff might help as well as the engines still use a viscous type fan iirc so will always draw some air over them and the rad and best to block it off mostly. Coolant should be changed and flushed out while it's warm and replaced with a ruddy strong mix of the right stuff as well.

Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs but best to make sure the bases are covered and coolant is rarely changed by main dealers as a service item  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Hi King

Loads of good info, thanks very much.

Reducing flow through the radiator and keeping healthy coolant are both top of the list. Normally cars have 2 mains plugs fitted, then an electric heater plugged in inside the cabin and an element in the block plugged in at the front. Good point on ventilation, for sure I'd need to watch that if I was going to run the webasto type.

Axle, I've never been to oz, spent 6 months in NZ and loved it but I'm guessing they are very different places. How has the move over gone? Enjoying it?

Cheers

Mat

TBH Mat if you have a decent sized garage and open th main door as you walk into the garage to drive the car out that should vent it enough after 30mins of running to avoid asphyxiation as it would waft the air in and out as moving the garage door.

The only thing id want to do is maybe install a shower vent type thing on the garage on the drivers side of the FF to take the exhaust out as it builds up in that area.

As the water would be very hot by that point as soon as the engine starts it would start to circulate and the temp would drop but as the engine bay would also be prewarmed it would help a fair bit and maybe let you get away without a block/sump heater as the engine bay is well insulated  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.