| How to - 4.4 V8 PCV valve replacement | |
Right, im going to give it a go a and do a write up of my PCV replacement 
Although im not great at stuff like this, so prob wont be as good as saintV8's stuff.
If you have a 4.4 v8 i really cant stress this enough to do this if it hasnt been done.
So...
My cam covers started to weep and my MPG started dropping off recently, and when i looked into it and searched around i found out that this is a prety major and common issue on the L322
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I checked my two top hoses and they were fine, (probably replaced when the LPG kit was fitted)
(6759A and 6759B on the diagram)
So i removed the cyclone (6B673 on the diagram), which is easy enough, 2 hoses at the top and one at the bottom.
The cyclone is held on by one bolt, and the cyclone itself is threaded so no need to worry about a nut. Just the bolt.
One removed it was clear just how blocked it was with gunk, so i soaked it on degreaser and flushed it out with a hose and left to dry
Sorry i dont have any pics of this, but its fairly self explanatory.
Next i tackled the PCV valve which i bought direct from guy salmon along with the gasket
PCV valve - LKR000040
PCV gasket - LKJ000060
Put the bonnet into service mode by releasing the gas struts and locking it in place
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You will need to disconnect the battery and the +lead in the engine bay in order to get the vent block out, the vent block is helt in with 2 13mm nuts, one either side and are obvious, with these 2 removed and the + bat leas disconnected it just slides out with very little effort
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With the vent block removed it makes access to the rear of the engine much easier, the cam covers of the engine is safe and sturdy enough to kneel on, you will need to do this to get youself into position to reach the back of the bay.
I also had a hop up (available from any hardware shop) and the front of the rangie so i could climb in.
Disconnect the 2 big hoses at the back of the PCV (quite tough to break the seal) and dont forget about the smaller vacuum hose at the bottom of the valve
(6C34B on the diagram)
If you are struggling, the valve can be removed and the hoses pulled off when its in a more suitable position.
On mine the smaller of the 3 hoses which people generally dont replace as its a cnut to get to was completely perished and wasn't even connected to my valve
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undo the two 10mm bolts at the top of the PCV valve, they hold a bracket for an electrical connector
And the 5 t30 torx bolts all the bolts have washers on, so be carefull not to drop anything.
Once all the blots are out and the hoses disconnected then the valve is easily removed. Mine was a little tighter, as i have an LPG kit fitted and the extra pipes and wire do get in the way.
When removing the valve, make sure you don't dislocate the vacuum manifold vent pipe (no.7), as it goes through the centre of the manifold and has to locate into a hole on the throttle body. trust me, IT IS A PITA to relocate. luckily i have a borescope camera
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inside the manifold, the hole it has to locate to is the bottom RHS of the throttle body
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With the valve removed its prety clear to see it 
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in this pics you can see the very small pipe connector had snapped off and looks blocked
Right, bolt it all back together, once you have taken it off, it very obvious how it goes back together, replace the perished hose as we talked about earlier with new. whilst the valve is off its quite easy to do, i left my new one a little longer as you will want to connect it the the PCV before you bolt it back in, much easier than trying to do it after.
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And thats it. sorry it its abit rubbish. as i said im not great at write ups, or remembering to take pics!
But i definitely recommend you do it!
My FFRR is at 115000 miles and had been left too long.
Valve was £65+vat
Gasket was £4.21+vat
smaller bottom vacuum hose (internal dia. 8mm i think, but check that) and some jubilee clips was £5
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  
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9th Feb 2013 6:31pm
