Changed the anciliary belts today an when under the car I noticed oil on the electric fan blade. I removed the grill and saw the oil leak was only on the bottom of the fan so deduced it to be an intercooler leak. Once I had the belts back on and engine running I can feel air coming out of the central top of the intercooler, it looks like some monkey fisted wrencher at the Franchise has damaged the I/C as it is crushed where the leak is.
I will remove the I/C next week but want to know if anyone has repaired theirs with a sealant/resin odr do you just get them welded.

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto

Not having seen a FF intercooler before, but very familiar with Defender intercoolers, I think you'd need to get that welded. Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

Bond & Seal made by wurth works well




Craig

Modern glues never cease to amaze me - but in cases such as this (heat cycles, pressure, etc) I still prefer to go with the 'real' thing. There is one on the bay right now
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/rangerover-vogue...20c427ba87

EDIT: nevermind - just noticed your location

Go ahead and give a high quality epoxy designed for high heat applications a try. Don't imagine there'll be to many TD6 ICs on ebay.nz  
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Well the story continues.
I removed the I/C today (what a prick of a job) and took it up to the bloke that builds things for people that cant do it themselvese. Or Brian as he is known.
Turns out welding these things is like working on a coke can that has been driven over by a steam roller. Brian did a bloody good job and used resin in place he could not weld but all to no avail. The I/C had burst and was a bit of a colander so my apologies to any Monkey Fisted wrenchers I offended.
Luckily I remembered a Ford Sierra Cosworth I/C I bought a few years back to add to my Disco 300TDi but never did. A bit of rummaging and I have an I/C in my hands. Unbelievably it fits in the space though is slightly smaller and the hoses are the same size and will line up with a bit of jiggling. Just need to block off the 19mm pipe that has no use on a TD6 by turning an aluminium plug, Devcon it in place with a roll pin for security.
This will do till a proper I/C turns up
Now I just have to fit it all back.
Pics will follow

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto

Sorry guys but I do not know how to link photos to here.
But I have put them in the FullFat Gallery with descriptions at the following link

http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/index.php?cat=11821

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto

Would it be possible to list the work steps required to remove the existing inter-cooler by any chance?
Could be useful for anyone wanting to remove it for cleaning purposes.

Best bet is to look up a copy of Rave.
I had to remove the bumper and all of its brackets etc,
Remove both fans.
When you eventually get everything clear at the bottom of the radiator you find the intercooler.
Unclip the hoses, dont bother with the jubilee clips as one of my hoses was glued to the socket.
Then release both clips at top front of I/C.
Then the fun begins, I managed to pass the I/C out the N/S wheel well first lowering the washer bottle out of the way.
But the good thing is putting it all back is a lot easier.
And don't forget the scrivets

I forgot to plug the temp sensor back into the grill and my fog lights

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto

Thanks for that, job for a warm day I think.
It'll have to stay dirty for now.

I am surprised there is no no. 8 wire involved in the fix you described or did you just not mention that ? MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Removing the IC is a bit of a PITA due to the AC condenser. If you are in a shop with access to an AC service station, you can evacuate the AC, drain the radiator, disconnect all hoses/lines/wires, unbolt the upper cowl cross plate, and remove the entire radiator assy. Of course you have to recharge the AC when done but I think it's still much quicker.

LR did not make this a DIY friendly job... 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

ebajema wrote:

I am surprised there is no no. 8 wire involved in the fix you described or did you just not mention that ?

No sorry but I did use 0.8mm mig wire in my welder.
And no I wasn't in Redband Gumboots and black singlet either

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto